Removing Patina
Removing Patina
Hello all. Any suggestions on removing patina on
a caly 3.5 sprint ? :eek: :o :o
a caly 3.5 sprint ? :eek: :o :o
Lost count ... :spyder: :spyder: :spyder:
Super Blue Lover
Super Blue Lover
- jackknifeh
- Member
- Posts: 8412
- Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2010 6:01 am
- Location: Florida panhandle
Wow. That is something I'd like to know myself. Patina is a form of corrosion that is desired sometimes as a protection from more damaging corrosion (RUST). Some like it just for the appearance since I don't think it gets worse like rust would damaging the steel. I'd think to remove it may be similar to removing rust. That may involve a little grinding with something small like a Dremel or just using sandpaper. I'll be interested to see what people who know more than me will come up with. I'm sure the issue has been dealt with sometime.
Jack
Jack
- The Deacon
- Member
- Posts: 25717
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Upstate SC, USA
- Contact:
Probably better to leave it, since as noted, it does offer some degree of rust protection. However, if you really want to remove it, any good metal polish and plenty of elbow grease will do the job. Flitz, Simichrome, and AG Russell's Super Premium will all work. Heck, even silver polish from the supermarket or toothpaste should work.
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
- JacksonKnives
- Member
- Posts: 837
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:28 pm
- Location: Alberta, Canada
- Contact:
Edit-as Paul says, polishing paste is a good place to start...
As Jack said, if you want to get down to bare steel again, you'll need to remove the oxidized steel on the surface.
A dremel could work, but the surface area of a dremel tool is so small, it's nearly impossible to make the finish even. Evenness is the difference between a mirror polish and a bunch of scratches.
How much of the blade has oxidized? (Just the tip? Along the spine on the flat? Random splotches over most of the blade?)
Bead/sand/ceramic media blasting is an option. Hand-sanding is an option, especially since the blade is flat-ground, but some spots might be tricky to hit with a straight edge.
Power-brushing or other motorized abrasives would be straightforward, but finishing a sharp blade is not for the faint of heart or unsteady grip--especially if you don't have a handle to hold onto.
As Jack said, if you want to get down to bare steel again, you'll need to remove the oxidized steel on the surface.
A dremel could work, but the surface area of a dremel tool is so small, it's nearly impossible to make the finish even. Evenness is the difference between a mirror polish and a bunch of scratches.
How much of the blade has oxidized? (Just the tip? Along the spine on the flat? Random splotches over most of the blade?)
Bead/sand/ceramic media blasting is an option. Hand-sanding is an option, especially since the blade is flat-ground, but some spots might be tricky to hit with a straight edge.
Power-brushing or other motorized abrasives would be straightforward, but finishing a sharp blade is not for the faint of heart or unsteady grip--especially if you don't have a handle to hold onto.
—Daniel Jackson
stone washing would remove it, stropping it on some 800/1000 grit paper. i have a brkt gunny that has a good amount of forced patina on it, just normal amount of stropping has removed some of it. i think if removing it was intended stropping on sandpaper would be the safe bet.
my knives:
kershaw Leek Buck 119 Cold Steel Recon tanto
Cold Steel Ti Lite VI ,
Spyderco: Tenacious ,Persistence, Endura 4 blue Stretch zdp blue, Manix 2 ,Native s30v . Sage2 titanium, Gayle Bradly cpm m4, Muleteam mt 10, woodcraft mule s30v. Orange Delica 4
Bark River PSK 154cm, Gunny, Bravo 2, Canadian Special
kershaw Leek Buck 119 Cold Steel Recon tanto
Cold Steel Ti Lite VI ,
Spyderco: Tenacious ,Persistence, Endura 4 blue Stretch zdp blue, Manix 2 ,Native s30v . Sage2 titanium, Gayle Bradly cpm m4, Muleteam mt 10, woodcraft mule s30v. Orange Delica 4
Bark River PSK 154cm, Gunny, Bravo 2, Canadian Special
- phillipsted
- Member
- Posts: 3674
- Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:30 am
- Location: North Virginia
I agree that leaving it makes more sense - but if you absolutely need to remove it, or any rust or corrosion, then I highly recommend using rust eraser blocks. These look sorta like the old rubber block erasers from school - only these have abrasive grit embedded in them. I use them a lot on carbon steel shop tools that end up getting a little coating of rust. But they are great for getting rid of little spots and discolorations on knife blades.
I recently had a little spot on one of my slipits which probably came from cutting up fruit at lunch and not cleaning the blade quickly enough. It left a few small dark spots above the bevel. I used the fine grit block sort of like a strop and the discoloration came right off. The coarse ones can be a little aggressive, so be aware!
I buy mine in three grades from Garrett Wade - although there are other sources...
http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp? ... p=06K02.02
TedP
I recently had a little spot on one of my slipits which probably came from cutting up fruit at lunch and not cleaning the blade quickly enough. It left a few small dark spots above the bevel. I used the fine grit block sort of like a strop and the discoloration came right off. The coarse ones can be a little aggressive, so be aware!
I buy mine in three grades from Garrett Wade - although there are other sources...
http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp? ... p=06K02.02
TedP
Worry less - Breathe more...
Spydie Fanatic #185
Spydie Fanatic #185
- razorsharp
- Member
- Posts: 3066
- Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2011 9:41 pm
- Location: New Zealand
I would try toothpaste first as Paul recommended...i've used toothpaste to polish tarnished silver rings and it works great. It would be a decent food safe way to keep your knife polished. Anything else you use, you'll have to keep it in mind if you ever use the knife for food prep.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Trying to keep a Super Blue blade tarnish free is futile if it is being used. You'll spend more time polishing than using. I would reccomend keeping it clean and dry and enjoying the distinctive personality it develops. For some reason this steel tends to oxidize with Fe3O4 rather than Fe2O3(rust). Use it and enjoy the character developing :)
Charlie
" Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not one bit simpler."
[CENTER]"Integrity is being good even if no one is watching"[/CENTER]
" Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not one bit simpler."
[CENTER]"Integrity is being good even if no one is watching"[/CENTER]