Force Patina on Gayle Bradley

eloreno · #1

Hello all,

I tried to force a patina on my gayle bradley using vinegar, and grapefruit.
Long story short, two hours later, no patina.
I'm thinking this is because I put tuf-glide on the blade. I guess tuf-glide works very well.

Has anyone forced a patina on M4?

What did you use?

Does anyone know how to remove tuf-glide?

Thanks everyone!

DeathBySnooSnoo · #2

Yes the lack of patina is due to the tuf-glide. i just use 3 in 1 oil and it had resisted all kinds of materials that would normally patina M4.

Probably soap and water would remove the tuf-glide...but maybe not.

Vinegar will give it a nice dark finish, seen a few that look really amazing.

eloreno · #3

I've forced many a patina using vinegar. I usually just put the knife in a cup with vinegar and leave it sit for about a half hour. I left the gayle bradley in the cup for at least an hour, with little to no affect.

Also worth noting, I scrubbed the blade thoroughly with soap and water, and also wiped it down good with rubbing alcohol before putting it in the cup.

DeathBySnooSnoo · #4

I've heard that stuff is hard to get off once out on...maybe a stronger soap. Some of that automotive soap that mechanics use to get grease off.

Why do you want to patina it? just for the look?

eloreno · #5

Yeah, I just like the way it looks. I think the dark grey would suite this knife. I prefer forcing a patina as to letting one develop, which inevitably will, because it's more uniform. IMo.

DeathBySnooSnoo · #6

Then you are going to have to find a way to get the tuf-glide off...and really well too if you want that nice even patina.

You might need to find out what is in the tuf-glide then try to find a solvent that will break it down.

Gunslinger · #7

Does a patina help protect the blade from harmful rust?

justinl · #8

try acetone to remove the tufglide maybe? (nail polish remover)

DeathBySnooSnoo · #9

Gunslinger wrote:Does a patina help protect the blade from harmful rust?

Yes it does. Though I have found that with M4 and a good lube like tuf-glide or 3 in 1 oil...rust is not an issue really. Mine wouldn't form a patina at all, never mind rust.

iwolf81 · #10

Wow, I am now going to get Tufglide to protect my knives! This thread is a heck of a commercial for it. :)

Regards,
Ira

eloreno · #11

Well, I just tried again. I threw every cleaning product I had at the blade before I tried again. (I do not have nail polish so didn't try that) I then left the blade in vinegar for about 3 hours.

No patina.

So, I took the blade out, put more tuf-glide on it, and put the knife back together. Tuf-glide protects the knife so well, I don't need a patina!

hunterseeker5 · #12

Hang on just a minute. Patina is normally surface oxidation from use and a variety of other things, but its OXIDATION. Putting the blade in acid is a reduction reaction, and a strong enough acid will actually eat the rust/patina off of your knife. What you're trying to do is etch your knife. I don't know what your problem is, but normally a couple hours in mild grocery-store grade acetic acid is enough to start the etch.

Of course a lot of these gun oil products actually aren't oil as much as a metal delivery system, in some cases stored as salts, which crash out of solution forming an extremely thin coating on surfaces they touch. If you're failing to produce an etch its likely that Tuff-glide does this and your blade's surface won't be cleaned even by aggressive solvents to the point where it'll easily take an etch.

mongatu · #13

Tuf-Glide is supposed to "bond" to the metal. I guess it really does.

arjay18 · #14

Oh wow! if regular tuff-glide protects that good what more the marine version. Glad that I have some marine tuff-glide coming my way. :)

dgulbra · #15

try mustard its works very well for patina

jackknifeh · #16

Reading this thread was like deja-vu. I did the exact same thing with my Manix2, M4. I had already used tuf-glide when I decided to put a patina on it. I never put patina on a knife before but had seen examples of it. Some people had created designs with it. Anyway, not luck. I tried sticking the blade in a potato overnight, vinegar, mustard, etc. No luck. I called Sentry Solutions to find out how to get the tuf-glide off the blade, get a patina on it then re-apply tuf-glide. They gave me a suggestion that I don't remember because it didn't work. So, I'll have to live with patina on my two M4 blades, which I don't want it on the GB. I did take the Manix2 apart and apply tuf-glide to the entire blade. I may do that once a year or so. I haven't taken the GB apart yet. I don't have much experience taking knives apart. I had a video of taking the Manix apart to go by. It looked easy and it is. The Walker liner lock is probably easy also but I'm not taking a chance unless I have some guidance. The Manix2 requires some input on which order to put the parts together to make it easier. The liner lock looks simple but if there are any "tricks" I want to know them before I attempt taking a perfect knife apart and getting it back together perfect. I would like to get the entire blade and tang treated with tuf-glide. So, if anyone has tips on taking a GB apart (AND GETTING IT BACK TOGETHER :) ) I'd appreciate them.

Jack

Fred Sanford · #17

This is awesome news. I'm just about ready to buy a GB and I'll just put some Tuf-Glide on the blade and then not worry about it.

Thanks for the insight folks.

:)

DeathBySnooSnoo · #18

IMO everyone should own a GB...I think that it is the best all round knife Spyderco makes. Great steel, 10/10 for F&F, ergos that fit nearly everyone...and the price. Seriously, I have 2 GBs and one I paid $120 for and other (of a board) was $105. That is like Sage 1 money for a knife like the GB!! Total 1000000% steal!

jackknifeh · #19

David Lowry wrote:This is awesome news. I'm just about ready to buy a GB and I'll just put some Tuf-Glide on the blade and then not worry about it.

Thanks for the insight folks.

:)

I've been using Tuf-Glide for a few years with no corrosion problems at all. The M4 blades are the only non-stainless blades I have and I was concerned but not any more. I "drown" the pivot area with tuf-glide using what drips out to wipe all over the other metal with a tuf-cloth. Even though I haven't taken the GB apart I figure the tuf-glide will get to any part of the insides that moisture will get to even without taking it apart. For now I will swear by Tuf-Glide and the tuf-cloth. In fact I ordered a tuf-cloth along with my new Chaparral that should be here tomorrow. yea! :D

I order a lot of stuff from CS and they have tuf-glide and cloth. Sometimes I'll just throw in a small priced item on a larger order to save shipping in case I need some tuf-glide or something when I don't want to place a larger order.

Jack

Fred S · #20

I put my M4 military in vinegar for 3 days, it is dark gray and black all over except where the letters are laser etched.