First Impressions

[Bradley]

Well everyone, I'm back from camping. I got the chance to use my stretch, and had questions, and concerns. This being my first spyderco, I'm not sure what to expect, and I could very well be asking too much. I cut some wood off of a 2x4, and the tip of one of the smaller serrations actually broke off. The blade rusted very quick, but was easy to remove with a little rubbing. The thumb hole actually has a little burr on the side of it, i didn't notice if this was there when i received the knife, but I can't think of any instance in which I would have hit the thumb hole on something. My CRKT m16-13z has seen everyday use for about a year, and none of the serrations have ever chipped off, I have only had one case of any blade rusting with that knife, and it was very minor. Idk, I could just be acting picky, but I think I may have expected too much from this knife. Input?

[Blerv]

I don't know. People use knives in different ways and submit them to different elements. I've yet to have M4 even patina let alone vg10 rust.

The serrations are thinly chisel ground and do a remarkable job slicing. Most serrated teeth in other makes are thick and also ineffective for cutting being profiled like a hack saw.

Thin steel + sideways torque = roll, chip, snap.

How did it cut compared to the CRKT? Maybe you need to step up the edc to a Manix2 or saber ground plain edge Delica/Endura. The rust is a bit freaky, maybe go with a Salt1.

Ps: the hole usually has a small burr due to laser cutting (if I'm thinking of the same thing)

[Bradley]

It did slice easier, but i was slightly perturbed about the serration breaking, as i did the exact same cut with the CRKT immediately after, and nothing happened to it. I had the knife on the inside of my waist band, and the sweat made little rust spots develop. They came off easy though.

[Blerv]

Most of the teeth can easily be brought back via sharpener. If it's bugging you I would give it a shot or visit a shop that can sharpen it out. Anything that keeps ya from being bothered is money well spent :) .

Were you whittling the 2x4? It's not the most friendly of cutting substances being that they build structures out of them.

[Bradley]

Ok, thanks Blerv, I'm going to file down that burr, and when I get the time I'll pay some attention to the serrations. My initial idea of getting an ffg endura has kind of faded. I think I'm gonna just pull the trigger on the para 2. Not too fond of a back lock myself :P

[Blerv]

Good call. Sometimes it's just about classifying. I love all my knives but pick then per task. My Stretch beats the Manix2 for all but yard chores.

Goodluck with the Para2. You might get some mineral oil and keep a coat on it. I spent $3 for a jug at Walgreens and lube all my knives. Non-toxic too.

[Bradley]

I look into that, Thanks for the info. :)

[Stephen]

Ok, thanks Blerv, I'm going to file down that burr, and when I get the time I'll pay some attention to the serrations. My initial idea of getting an ffg endura has kind of faded. I think I'm gonna just pull the trigger on the para 2. Not too fond of a back lock myself :P

Don't know if you filed the burr yet so I'll repeat an idea found in the forum before. Try using a marble wrapped in really fine grit sandpaper. All you have to do is make a gentle twisting motion and it'll soften the edges of the Spyderhole really well. Works great, but if you overdo it the knife doesn't open as easily because it has less traction with your skin.

For reference: http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?p=617370 posts 2&3

[Bradley]

ooooh, maybe I'll give that a try! Great idea.

[mongatu]

The Para 2 is a great knife (my personal favorite) and one I highly recommend. It's a pretty strong design overall, however, the tip on them is not super strong because it is ground very fine and sharp which to me is great. But it is obviously not designed to be impervious to much abuse.

[Jackson]

Hmm, most would agree that the Stretch is vastly superior to a CRKT M16. I don't own a lot of serrated knives, but I could see the serrations chipping if used to slice on a 2x4. For that kind of job I would go with a plain edge. Not to sound mean but I don't think this stuff is really Spyderco's fault.

[chuck_roxas45]

Right tool for the right job?

[Bradley]

In no way am I attempting to blame spyderco. I was simply letting people know what i though. I honestly thought serrated would be better, my bad.

[Halfneck]

Serrations work better on fibrous material - think rope, cord, etc. For working wood a plain edge would be better.

[chuck_roxas45]

In no way am I attempting to blame spyderco. I was simply letting people know what i though. I honestly thought serrated would be better, my bad.

Serrated is better for tough fibrous materials and some smooth hard materials like plastics where a plain edge can't easily get purchase. Slicing and push cutting wood is best done with a polished, plain edge.

[Bradley]

Thanks guys :) None the less I would think steel > wood, for a little cut.

[yowzer]

Thanks guys :) None the less I would think steel > wood, for a little cut.

Depends, when it comes to 2x4s. I watched a Bladesports cutting competition this weekend, and guys were making jokes about measuring the rockwell number on the ones they were chopping...

[Blerv]

Wood is far from homogenous. Towards the grain, against the grain, knots, etc. One person could whittle a 2x4 for an hour using one technique and just dull the knife, the other could break a tip with another. Half it is probably luck.

What makes SE great (in my mind) is it keeps on ticking. You could snap off each tip of each serration, dull the valleys, and it would still cut far longer than a similarly beat up PE knife. Sure it would look uglier but it would do the trick.

Steak knifes are usually made from crappy steel and cut meat on ceramic their whole lives. They still hold up better than most the rest of the block set.

[unit]

Saw blades are designed to cut wood but even they will get dull and often times if you look you will see chips/rolls on the teeth.

Wood seems to be pretty soft, but certain samples can be **** on blades, even blades designed for cutting wood.

Serrations are not something I have a lot of experience with, they just do not appeal to me and my uses. The ones I have used were prone to folding over teeth when pushed hard (I know a kid who thought he could saw down a tree in the yard with a serrated Byrd, and it ended badly).

Regarding the rust. I presume this is a VG-10 model? If so I am somewhat surprised by this report. I can not get mine to rust. Not saying it is not possible, but I would not have guessed VG-10 would rust so quickly.

ZDP-189 on the other hand is known to rust under the conditions you report.

[Evil D]

I've seen quite a few chipped chainsaw teeth over the years. There's an infinite number of possible reasons it broke. I wouldn't let this one incidence sour your opinion of the brand or knife.