In my opinion, this is one of the important things to do. You can take a break for a few minutes, a few days, or a few months. That break is important and can save you a lot of headache.dbcad wrote: More important is the reading and understanding of what I was doing, purchasing an inexpensive loupe to be able to see what I was doing (sharpie trick is great), and a vow to stop trying anytime I started feeling frustrated.
Agreed. There are some days where I am worse than others. I have learned that on those days it is best i put the knife and stone down.Donut wrote:In my opinion, this is one of the important things to do. You can take a break for a few minutes, a few days, or a few months. That break is important and can save you a lot of headache.
Those are the days I use a strop.troutfisher13111 wrote:Agreed. There are some days where I am worse than others. I have learned that on those days it is best i put the knife and stone down.
A diamond paste loaded strop can quickly dull your edge on an off day.mongatu wrote:Those are the days I use a strop.![]()
This can be true. I would like to say that I like strops with diamond paste but for the record I've never tried anything else. I have two sets I've made. I have 3 cowhide strops with 6, 3 and 1 micron DMT diamond paste. I also have 3 horse hide strops with the same paste. The horse hide is a lot harder than the cow hide. The diamond paste (I think) cuts fast as far as stropping compounds because diamonds are hard. In addition to putting a hair whittling edge on a knife they also polish very nicely. Again, I've never tried anything else except the $20 strop from Knives Plus which worked good also, just not as good so my opinion is limited. But as you said Chuck, if you lift the spine too high with too much pressure you'll get a burr that will kill an edge. So if I find myself not feeling like paying attention, am distracted or whatever I'll stop.chuck_roxas45 wrote:A diamond paste loaded strop can quickly dull your edge on an off day.![]()
I've tried green compound Jack and it's a little less aggressive than diamond paste, but even bare leather dulls a knife when stropped on a wrong angle. I do like the results of my diamond pastes on balsa wood a lot.jackknifeh wrote:This can be true. I would like to say that I like strops with diamond paste but for the record I've never tried anything else. I have two sets I've made. I have 3 cowhide strops with 6, 3 and 1 micron DMT diamond paste. I also have 3 horse hide strops with the same paste. The horse hide is a lot harder than the cow hide. The diamond paste (I think) cuts fast as far as stropping compounds because diamonds are hard. In addition to putting a hair whittling edge on a knife they also polish very nicely. Again, I've never tried anything else except the $20 strop from Knives Plus which worked good also, just not as good so my opinion is limited. But as you said Chuck, if you lift the spine too high with too much pressure you'll get a burr that will kill an edge. So if I find myself not feeling like paying attention, am distracted or whatever I'll stop.
I'd like to add to dbcad's thank you to the forum members for their help in learning many details to getting the really sharp edges. Thank you forum folks.
Jack
Oh yeh, it's what I strop factory edges touched up on the SM on.Ankerson wrote:Green compound is .5 Micron and AO so it's not very aggressive so it gives one some room for error in not dulling the edge too fast.
As with most stropping it's all about angle and less is better as is a light touch to really refine the edge and or remove the burr.
I find green compound great for doing the finial stropping when working with coarse edges after I remove the burr, just a few strokes and it's there and what that does is leave an extremely sharp edge that is also still aggressive.
I tried this but it doesnt seem to make a difference. I've also tried using very light pressure.Ankerson wrote:It's snagging becasuse there is a burr in some spots along the edge.
A shortcut and the easy way to remove that burr without having to spend anymore money is the following.
Take that blade and increase the angle slightly, instead of the blade being straight up and down. Using the UF STONES increase the angle a few degrees by tilting the knife AWAY from the rod on each side and make a few VERY LIGHT strokes on each side of the blade. Test the edge, and if needed repeat the process.
A strop is easier though.
Nope. It's your technique.ToneGrail wrote: When using the Sharpmaker normally, I do notice that I'm able to get a factory sharp edge on my Endura, but not my Tenacious. I wonder if it has anything to do with the type of steel.
You aren't using enough angle and or pressure, all you are doing this for is to knock off the burr.ToneGrail wrote:I tried this but it doesnt seem to make a difference. I've also tried using very light pressure.
When using the Sharpmaker normally, I do notice that I'm able to get a factory sharp edge on my Endura, but not my Tenacious. I wonder if it has anything to do with the type of steel.