30 then 40?

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
casey1
Member
Posts: 266
Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2010 6:29 pm

30 then 40?

#1

Post by casey1 »

do i really need to do 40 to touch up on the edge after i do the 30 degrees?
User avatar
Sequimite
Member
Posts: 2959
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:19 am
Location: Sequim (skwim), WA

#2

Post by Sequimite »

casey1 wrote:do i really need to do 40 to touch up on the edge after i do the 30 degrees?
I find that on my S30V knives I get too much chipping when using a straight 30 degrees.
Our reason is quite satisfied, in 999 cases out of every 1000 of us, if we can find a few arguments that will do to recite in case our credulity is criticized by someone else. Our faith is faith in someone else's faith, and in the greatest matters this is most the case.
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
User avatar
Evil D
Member
Posts: 27147
Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:48 pm
Location: Northern KY

#3

Post by Evil D »

The idea of using 40 after 30 is to guarantee that you WILL hit the edge, and therefor you WILL sharpen the knife, as opposed to possibly hitting the center of the bevel or shoulder of the bevel, and get nowhere. If you use a marker on the edge, and you're accurate enough, you could probably touch up on 30 and get it sharp again, but you'd have to be pretty **** accurate.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
jzmtl
Member
Posts: 1417
Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2008 9:02 am
Location: Montreal, Canada

#4

Post by jzmtl »

For the steels spyderco use, no.

BUT, if you are talking about a factory edge, chances are you are not even touching the edge with 30° setting, so you will have to resort to 40°.
Joe Talmadge
Member
Posts: 1077
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am

#5

Post by Joe Talmadge »

David, I'd disagree with that a bit. The idea of using the 40 after the 30 is to either 1. completely finish off the burr, if you just take a few light strokes, or 2. put a more robust (but obviously less sharp) microbevel on the edge, if you take a lot of strokes. You do not need the 40 degree strokes to ensure that you're sharpening all the way to the edge -- the fact that you're raising a burr along the entire length of both edges guarantees that you're doing so. If you're not raising a burr, you should switch to the burr method, IMO, you'll be happy with the results.

casey1, you do not have to use the 40 degrees. If you're like Sequimite and see chipping that goes away with a 40-degree finish, then do it -- otherwise, I strongly counsel taking just a couple of very light strokes at 40 degrees as a burr-finisher, then done.
Post Reply