SE vs PE for all does one...
SE vs PE for all does one...
An EDC knife, for utility, self defense, etc...which would edge style (Spyderedge or plain edge) would you guys recommend...a true one does all, or atleast as close as we can come to that.
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Some tasks can be performed more efficiently with a serrated blade, some with a plain edged one. However, there are several things you can do with a plain edged blade but not with a serrated one, for example skinning game, and nothing that can be done with a serrated blade that a plain one cannot do. Really comes down to deciding which will work best for the tasks you normally perform with your knife.
Paul
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I've been EDCing a SE Para for the past two years, and have recently decided to go back to a PE of some sort (either a Delica or a PE Para).
Since you're considering the Military, you might want the CE version. More than enough plain edge where it matters, and the small section of serrations should be enough for the rare occasions where you'll need it. If I was going to EDC a Military, that's what I'd go with.
Since you're considering the Military, you might want the CE version. More than enough plain edge where it matters, and the small section of serrations should be enough for the rare occasions where you'll need it. If I was going to EDC a Military, that's what I'd go with.
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I prefer both. when gifting a knife, for people new to knives, who do not know how to sharpen. I will give them a SE knife since it will stay sharp longer. I also have to cut 3' cardboard and corrugated plastic pads into strips to pack out parts at my work. A SE knife will keep a working edge longer then a PE knife. Also for me unless the knife has an odd shape (Cricket), I do not have a hard time sharpening it.
A PE is great for detailed work and some food prep. I don't do a lot of kitchen work with my folders. But sometimes picnics, pealing apples, needing a sharper knife then the knives my GF puts in the dishwasher, my folder will come out and get the job done.
DM
A PE is great for detailed work and some food prep. I don't do a lot of kitchen work with my folders. But sometimes picnics, pealing apples, needing a sharper knife then the knives my GF puts in the dishwasher, my folder will come out and get the job done.
DM
Smile, it can always get worse
ditto, if you have to ask choose a pe.xavierdoc wrote:If in doubt, PE.
I love the Spyderedge but it is less universally useful than PE.
my knives:
kershaw Leek Buck 119 Cold Steel Recon tanto
Cold Steel Ti Lite VI ,
Spyderco: Tenacious ,Persistence, Endura 4 blue Stretch zdp blue, Manix 2 ,Native s30v . Sage2 titanium, Gayle Bradly cpm m4, Muleteam mt 10, woodcraft mule s30v. Orange Delica 4
Bark River PSK 154cm, Gunny, Bravo 2, Canadian Special
kershaw Leek Buck 119 Cold Steel Recon tanto
Cold Steel Ti Lite VI ,
Spyderco: Tenacious ,Persistence, Endura 4 blue Stretch zdp blue, Manix 2 ,Native s30v . Sage2 titanium, Gayle Bradly cpm m4, Muleteam mt 10, woodcraft mule s30v. Orange Delica 4
Bark River PSK 154cm, Gunny, Bravo 2, Canadian Special
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I cut with the first inch of a blade but saw with the belly. A combo edge would probably suit the OP. I never get full SE as the other posters stated PE can do anything SE can do - but it won't work in the reverse.
A good thing to note - PE ALWAYS sells out before SE in shops. I sometimes wonder why spyderco bothers with full SE models as they don't seem to sell anywhere near as well.
A good thing to note - PE ALWAYS sells out before SE in shops. I sometimes wonder why spyderco bothers with full SE models as they don't seem to sell anywhere near as well.
My 2 Serrated cents
It's really about what your comfortable using, and whether the knife is right for the task at hand.
Just as PE grinds & blade shapes differ, the same applies to SE blades. An SE blade can be every bit as useful and effective as a PE blade yet it an take more exploration and research to find the right SE blade configuration for you. Most folks unfortunately never seem to give that too much thought and unjustly tar all SE blades with the same brush.
Generally speaking serrated knives are often given a bad rap, yet an appreciation of their design only comes from using them. While using an SE blade can feel unnatural at first for some, the more you use one the more you understand how to use one.
I'm never with out my SE Millie ever. In my experience this is by far one of the most versatile knives I've ever encountered. To me it's far more useful than a PE Millie (including my fancy pants M4 - RIL :D ) While I usually have a PE blade with me too (usually a D2 Para or Bradley M4), in a one knife only scenario I'd gladly carry my 440V SE Millie over any other folder out there.
Jez
P.s
Just as PE grinds & blade shapes differ, the same applies to SE blades. An SE blade can be every bit as useful and effective as a PE blade yet it an take more exploration and research to find the right SE blade configuration for you. Most folks unfortunately never seem to give that too much thought and unjustly tar all SE blades with the same brush.
Generally speaking serrated knives are often given a bad rap, yet an appreciation of their design only comes from using them. While using an SE blade can feel unnatural at first for some, the more you use one the more you understand how to use one.
I'm never with out my SE Millie ever. In my experience this is by far one of the most versatile knives I've ever encountered. To me it's far more useful than a PE Millie (including my fancy pants M4 - RIL :D ) While I usually have a PE blade with me too (usually a D2 Para or Bradley M4), in a one knife only scenario I'd gladly carry my 440V SE Millie over any other folder out there.
Jez
P.s
- SE blades are NOT saws
- SE blades DO need to be sharpened
- SE blades are EASY to maintain with the right equipment (701 profiles)
FB04PBB, C07FS4K390, C12GS, C12SBK2, C36GS, C36GTIP, C36CFM390P, C36CFTIP, C36GPBORE, C41BKPS, C44GP&SGY, C46PS, C46GPBK, C52BKP, C52FPGYE, C63G3, C65TIP, C70S, C81FG, C81GS2, C81CFM4P2, C83BM, C83GP2, C101GP, C101GPS, C101CF90VP2, C105, C134CF, C151GODTiPBK
Individual preference
A most interesting thread . . . I think it really boils down to personal preference. If it works for you, feels good to you, and looks good to you - it's the one for you! Only thing I would add is that both edges can be well sharpened with the proper equipment - the Tri-Angle Sharpmaker is my choice. Again, some will disagree on the 'best tool' for sharpening - it's personal preference. :)
SE isn't difficult to maintain and with the edge retention benefits the sharpening are far less frequent.
A SE hawkbill will serve as a nice defense or EDC knife. SE traditional blade shapes definitely give up SD performance per Doc's tests. The Tasman/Spyderhawk is the work knife of many electricians/construction guys on this forum.
Of course the main disadvantage to a SE hawkbill is some tasks (like peeling labels) are impossible. They shine at everything else relating to making one thing into two pieces or opening things. That and they tend to be quite wide in the pocket.
A SE hawkbill will serve as a nice defense or EDC knife. SE traditional blade shapes definitely give up SD performance per Doc's tests. The Tasman/Spyderhawk is the work knife of many electricians/construction guys on this forum.
Of course the main disadvantage to a SE hawkbill is some tasks (like peeling labels) are impossible. They shine at everything else relating to making one thing into two pieces or opening things. That and they tend to be quite wide in the pocket.
1. If you're going to slice things, use a PE
2. If you're going to rip things apart, use an SE
2. If you're going to rip things apart, use an SE
Im not good at sharpening, even with a sharpmaker. How get your blade good can your blade with an edge pro system? - Bladeforums user
Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like? - Some Online Meme
Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like? - Some Online Meme