SolidState wrote:I use my standard sharpmaker like the dvd says. I do 3 passes on the uncut side (ura) and than 1 on the cut side so that I don't ruin the teeth.
Solid,
Please do not be offended, but I believe you need to watch that video again. This quote is not found in the instructional DVD or booklet. Peter1977 has provided the actual process from the video and booklet.
Cheers,
Doug
SFO Alumni/Authorized Spyderco Dealer (Startup)
Work EDC List
FRP: Nisjin Cricket PE, Manbug PE, Dragonfly PE
FLP: SS Cricket SE, byrd Flatbyrd CE
BRP: CF Military S90V
BLP: Forum S110V Native
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
I think that sharpening 3 on the uncut side and 1 on the cut side would result in changing the bevel on the flat side drastically. You need to sharpen a LOT on the cut side to ruin the teeth and I don't think you would come close using even the brown stones.
Although the blades are saber or flat ground, the actual edge of a serrated knife is slightly chisel ground. 1/1 gives you a prominent microbevel and a longer lasting, sturdier edge, 3/1 gives you a sharper edge that doesn't last as long.
I use the Sharpmaker on my serrated blades. Like Pete 1977, I pull and push as I sharpen to get all of the surfaces in the troughs of the serrations.
I assume that the reason the serrations are only cut on one side has to do with economies of manufacturing. Is there another reason to prefer a chisel grind on a general purpose blade?
The mentioned 701MF ProFile set is great and so is the 307F Slip Stone (the small radius fits the small scallops perfectly, and the large radius fits the large scallops.)
The sharpmaker is great and will easily bring a dull knife back to sharp, but once sharp its much easier to maintain (especially serrated) with one of the above. At least for me, YMMV.
