How do wood scales hold up?

nabobz · #1

I am planning on making some wood scales on my Tenacious and am curious to see how they wear. I have a couple pieces of walnut that I'm going to use. How does the finish hold up in a pocket all day long every day? Anybody have pictures of their wood scales?

2cha · #2

Depends what you use to finish the scales. Best if they are "stabilized"--wood hardener or thin two part resin drawn into the wood by vacuum pump.

Leatherneck · #3

There are a million Buck 110s out there that have weathered rather well with wood scales. I have one that is from the mid 70s and it still looks great. I also have a Buck Pony that saw about 8 years of EDC and it looks great also. Good, stable hardwood will last a long time.

unit · #4

I have a few (clipless) folders that have wood handles. Two are notable because they are both over 20 years old...one has stabilized wood, the other has very porous plain looking (perhaps untreated) wood that seems soft to the touch.

While the second one I mention has numerous scars from things banging into it as it rode in my pocket for many years, both knives are fine in terms of the wood scales, and both knives served me through a good portion of my life (including my rather rambunctious youth). They were not treated kindly or gently.

In summary. Wood is a really durable material for scales...perhaps not as durable as FRN or G-10, but with some common sense (that my knives were not always afforded) it should last a lifetime.

I will post some photos later if you like.

The Deacon · #5

This Stretch has seen plenty of use and pocket time. Granted, it's a bit of a cheat, Lignum Vitae is probably stronger than G-10. :D

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As for stabilization, while there are some woods that require it, and some that can benefit from it, there are also some, like Lignum Vitae, African Blackwood, and Desert Ironwood, that not only don't need it but are so dense and oily that the stabilizing agent can't penetrate them, even under vacuum.

Any wood will dent, if you hit it hard enough, but even if you do manage to ding or gouge it, that just adds character.

unit · #6

Yeah, that leads to a fantastic point. Scuffs and dents add character...and character looks great. If you want a show piece that stays pristine...chances are you are not really going to use it anyway...so it will hold up quite well in the case/safe/whatever.

Opinions vary

now you know a little more about mine.

One more point...you are making these yourself? Who cares how well they hold up...you will soon have (if you do not already) the skills needed to make more should these get too much "character".

Go for it, but post photos when you are done!

mikerestivo · #7

The Deacon wrote:This Stretch has seen plenty of use and pocket time. Granted, it's a bit of a cheat, Lignum Vitae is probably stronger than G-10. :D

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As for stabilization, while there are some woods that require it, and some that can benefit from it, there are also some, like Lignum Vitae, African Blackwood, and Desert Ironwood, that not only don't need it but are so dense and oily that the stabilizing agent can't penetrate them, even under vacuum.

Any wood will dent, if you hit it hard enough, but even if you do manage to ding or gouge it, that just adds character.

I like it and want one like it. I'm not skilled enough to make my own, sadly.

arty · #8

That looks a lot like Argentine Lignum Vitae. It is hard, but easy to work with sharp tools. It does make you light headed if you sand it and don't wear a respirator. The stuff is heavy and strong, and one of the toughest woods out there.

Water Bug · #9

Leatherneck wrote:There are a million Buck 110s out there that have weathered rather well with wood scales. I have one that is from the mid 70s and it still looks great. I also have a Buck Pony that saw about 8 years of EDC and it looks great also. Good, stable hardwood will last a long time.

+1

I have a Buck 110 Folding Hunter that I bought in 1979. I still EDC it today. It's been everywhere with me, it's been dunked numerous times, it even gutted and skinned an armadillo, and the most noticeable war score on the wooden handles is the impressions left on one side by the snap closure of the leather sheath.

nabobz · #10

Thanks guys for the comments and picture. The walnut I have isn't stabilized, but like Unit said I will have the skills to make more in the future should I need them. That Stretch looks great! I wish Spyderco would offer an option of wood scales on various folders.

The Deacon · #11

nabobz wrote:Thanks guys for the comments and picture. The walnut I have isn't stabilized, but like Unit said I will have the skills to make more in the future should I need them. That Stretch looks great! I wish Spyderco would offer an option of wood scales on various folders.

Assuming the walnut is well seasoned, there should be no problems with it not being stabilized.

FWIW, there were a couple wood scaled versions of the Kopa offered and there's been talk of a possible bolstered, cocobolo version of the Caly 3.5 in the future. For "full panel" scales on a production Spyderco, I think the problem would be the clip mounting, unless they went with one of the stabilized plywood products like Pakawood or Dymondwood.

nabobz · #12

hmmm. I forgot about the clip. The screws just go into the g10? They aren't threaded into holes in the liner? That may cause some issues cause I have to have a clip.

Creepo · #13

nabobz wrote:hmmm. I forgot about the clip. The screws just go into the g10? They aren't threaded into holes in the liner? That may cause some issues cause I have to have a clip.

ALL Spyderco metal clips have metal on metal connection. The screws do go all the way to the liners.

The Deacon · #14

More a case that wood can be compressed, and that the attached end of the clip gets "rocked" against the scale when other end of the clip is lifted. Over time, that will dent the wood and loosen the clip. Using well stabilized wood solves that, but not all wood sold as stabilized qualifies.

Reno Sepulveda · #15

Man I was just starting to think my FRN Stretch was about as perfect is it could be. The Blue FRN has kind of grown on me and somehow it feels...warmer than G10. But man that's a beautiful knife. How much does it weigh now?

The Deacon wrote:This Stretch has seen plenty of use and pocket time. Granted, it's a bit of a cheat, Lignum Vitae is probably stronger than G-10. :D

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The Deacon · #16

It weighs 98 grams on my scale and is not set up for a clip. For comparison, an FRN Stretch weighs 96 grams on it with the clip, and 92 grams without the clip.

Reno Sepulveda · #17

Thanks. That started out as a CF Stretch right? I'd need to have a ti spacer made for my FRN... ahhhh knife porn

The Deacon · #18

Reno Sepuveda wrote:Thanks. That started out as a CF Stretch right? I'd need to have a ti spacer made for my FRN... ahhhh knife porn

Nope, started out as one of the original stainless with Kraton inlays VG-10 ones. The liners are titanium and are not skeletonized. Probably could lower the weight a few grams by having that done, but I like it fine the way it is.

donutsrule · #19

The Deacon wrote:This Stretch has seen plenty of use and pocket time. Granted, it's a bit of a cheat, Lignum Vitae is probably stronger than G-10. :D

As for stabilization, while there are some woods that require it, and some that can benefit from it, there are also some, like Lignum Vitae, African Blackwood, and Desert Ironwood, that not only don't need it but are so dense and oily that the stabilizing agent can't penetrate them, even under vacuum.

Any wood will dent, if you hit it hard enough, but even if you do manage to ding or gouge it, that just adds character.

Very nice! I want to do something like that to a Perrin PPT. I was thinking stabilized curly koa, but haven't made a final call on the wood. Gotta buy a second PPT to do this to, first, too.