Tips on Reprofiling with SM & Sandpaper?

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AJF
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Tips on Reprofiling with SM & Sandpaper?

Postby AJF » Wed Sep 15, 2010 10:41 am

I am going to try reprofiling a VG10 blade from a 20/40 edge to a 15/30. I don't have a belt sander or even any diamond stones. But, I do have a Sharpmaker and a good assortment of sandpaper. I have read that many have used this rig to re-profile, attaching the paper to the SM rods.

I'd like to give this a try, and am wondering what is the best method of attaching the paper---just roll a section around the rods and attach with rubber bands, or.....?

Also, what grit paper is recommended?

Thanks for any advice.

Andrew

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dsmegst
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Postby dsmegst » Wed Sep 15, 2010 8:47 pm

Hi,

I used 220 since that's what I had handy.

I cut a strip about an inch shorter than the rods, wide enough to wrap around all 3 sides with some over lap. I just wrapped it tight around each rod, and taped around the top and the bottom, leaving enough room at the bottom uncovered so it goes into the Sharpmaker base.

Using light pressure, I let the sandpaper do the work, 5 strokes per side, alternating until the 2 edges meet. Depending on how much metal you remove, change the sandpaper when it wears out.

When you're satisfied, continue on to the medium rods. That's all there is to it.

Good luck
Dan (dsmegst)

:spyder:
Latest 10: Techno, Centofante Memory, Bradley Air, Tuff, M390 Blue Para 2 (2), Yojimbo 2, Des Horn, DiAlex Junior, Native 5, Chaparral
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AJF
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Postby AJF » Wed Sep 15, 2010 10:34 pm

Thanks, Dan. That;s just what I was looking for. Image

Andrew

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Zendemic
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Postby Zendemic » Wed Sep 15, 2010 10:46 pm

To secure the paper to the rods, i used medium-sized binder clips and they worked exceedingly well, and swapping out the sand paper is really easy and fast. I've tried the tape method but it never stays tight on my rods.

hope this helps!

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AJF
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Postby AJF » Wed Sep 15, 2010 11:08 pm

Binder clips---yes, I like that! Thanks, CF.

Andrew

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frontline29
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Postby frontline29 » Thu Sep 16, 2010 12:06 am

I buy sheets of sand paper then measure and cut it up so I can fold it over 3 sides of the stone exactly, then I leave a little to over lap. That way you can still use 2 or 3 sides of the stone instead of Just one.
The sand paper gets held in place with zid ties or twist ties. Twist ties work the best IMO.
I start with 150 grit and work my way up to 1,000 grit. Sometimes 2,000
Here's a few pic's of my set up.
Image
Image

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Postby ICSK » Thu Sep 16, 2010 12:10 am

frontline29 wrote:I buy sheets of sand paper then measure and cut it up so I can fold it over the 3 sides of the stone. That way you can still use 2 or 3 sides of the stone instead of Just one.
The sand paper gets held in place with zid ties or twist ties. Twist ties work the best IMO.
I start with 150 grit and work my way up to 1,000 grit. Sometimes 2,000

Shoot me an email if you have any questions, need pictures or any other information. I'd be happy to help.
I find that the higher grits aren't necessary. According to this site, the medium stones are 800 grit and the fine are 1200:

http://zknives.com/knives/sharpening/spyderco204.shtml

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Postby frontline29 » Thu Sep 16, 2010 12:28 am

ICSK wrote:I find that the higher grits aren't necessary. According to this site, the medium stones are 800 grit and the fine are 1200:

http://zknives.com/knives/sharpening/spyderco204.shtml
The higher grits are just to polish the edge while reprofiling in the 15 degree slots. After I get a nice shine to the bevel in the 15 slots. I switch over to the 40 slots and micro bevel the very edge, always finishing with the ultra fine rods.

I can't ever seem to get a perfect consistant polished bevel when using just the bare stones. When I wrap the stones with sand paper I get that perfect consistant shine.

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Postby chuck_roxas45 » Thu Sep 16, 2010 2:23 am

dsmegst wrote:Hi,

I used 220 since that's what I had handy.

I cut a strip about an inch shorter than the rods, wide enough to wrap around all 3 sides with some over lap. I just wrapped it tight around each rod, and taped around the top and the bottom, leaving enough room at the bottom uncovered so it goes into the Sharpmaker base.

Using light pressure, I let the sandpaper do the work, 5 strokes per side, alternating until the 2 edges meet. Depending on how much metal you remove, change the sandpaper when it wears out.

When you're satisfied, continue on to the medium rods. That's all there is to it.

Good luck
How long did that take?

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Postby Zendemic » Thu Sep 16, 2010 11:44 am

I was re-profiling a knife today so i thought i'd take some pictures of my setup. You can set up the binder clips so that you can sharpen on the flats or the corners.

hopes this helps,
-CF

Image

edit: i'm using some 220 "Diamond Grit" sand paper, and it works just fine. You just have to make sure you clean out the loose grit from the holes before you swap rods. I can't imagine that being too good for the plastic base...

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Postby indie_dave » Thu Sep 16, 2010 11:50 am

+1 thread. looking forward to using this method, thanks gentlemen

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AJF
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Postby AJF » Thu Sep 16, 2010 1:34 pm

Yes, indeed, thanks for all the additional posts and info. You guys have been incredibly helpful.

I'm really looking forward to trying out all the various tips and methods.

Many thanks.

Andrew

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c.joe
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Postby c.joe » Sun Sep 19, 2010 12:12 am

Thanks for the info guys, this has been very helpful.

My area doesn't sell high grit sandpaper and I was wondering if you guys knew a handy website that sells it (1000,2000) for cheap.

Many thanks!

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Postby jzmtl » Sun Sep 19, 2010 12:23 am

c.joe wrote:Thanks for the info guys, this has been very helpful.

My area doesn't sell high grit sandpaper and I was wondering if you guys knew a handy website that sells it (1000,2000) for cheap.

Many thanks!
Look in automotive section of stores, where they sell body paint and bondo, you should find some.

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AJF
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Postby AJF » Sun Sep 19, 2010 12:28 am

That's good advice about the auto stores, and you'll save shipping.

Here's an online source, although you'll have to check shipping: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/wetanddry.htm

I've also gotten some good deals on paper assortments on ebay.

Lee Valley is another good online retailer, and if you sign up for their e-mail list, they'll send you notice of the free shipping periods they have every few months.

Andrew

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Postby Gunslinger » Mon Sep 20, 2010 12:43 am

Will this process work with very fine sand paper like 2000 grit to get a mirror finish edge?

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Postby dsmegst » Mon Sep 20, 2010 8:37 am

Gunslinger wrote:Will this process work with very fine sand paper like 2000 grit to get a mirror finish edge?
Yes. Close enough to a mirror finish that you won't be able to tell w/o a magnifying glass. A true mirror finish will need some stropping. I tried a true mirror like finish on a few knives but I didn't like it. It lost all the bite and even though it was SHARP, it didn't cut as well. It was mostly to see how far I can go and my opinion is that it's possible to go too far.
Dan (dsmegst)

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Latest 10: Techno, Centofante Memory, Bradley Air, Tuff, M390 Blue Para 2 (2), Yojimbo 2, Des Horn, DiAlex Junior, Native 5, Chaparral
:spyder:

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Postby Zendemic » Mon Sep 20, 2010 8:59 am

dsmegst wrote:Yes. Close enough to a mirror finish that you won't be able to tell w/o a magnifying glass. A true mirror finish will need some stropping. I tried a true mirror like finish on a few knives but I didn't like it. It lost all the bite and even though it was SHARP, it didn't cut as well. It was mostly to see how far I can go and my opinion is that it's possible to go too far.
You could polish the back bevel, and put on a micro bevel with the normal fine SM rods at 40°. Just a thought...


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