My goal is a knife that does the job and requires the least amount of force at the handle to do it. This is balanced with my idea of what acceptable edge retention is.jackknifeh wrote:
The ultimate goal is to get the lowest angle possible that will hold up to the task at hand. Real high angles are useless except for hatchets, axes, etc. which is needet for these tools. I have a machete that I have a 21 degree per side angle on which I plan on lowering to 15 per side to see how it works. The steel is 1055 carbon. Hard but not the hardest.
I have no idea, but I would guess it is a fairly simple and relatively cheap and un-sexy steel. It really does not need to be anything with crazy high corrosion or wear resistance...it is a tool that serves one purpose (indoor measurement).Jay_Ev wrote:In addition to user experiences, I'm curious about other things as well. Such as:
-What type of steel is it made of? S-30V? H1? VG-10?
-Where is it made? Golden? Taiwan? Japan? China?
Hi Jack,jackknifeh wrote:I've never wanted a knife with an edge angle of 10 degrees inclusive. Please let me know what a 10 degree inclusive edge would be used for. I know it will go through tires quick but for how long? Just a thought I've been having. I know I need a hobby.
Hey FLYcrash,FLYcrash wrote:Hi Jack,
My straight razor has a ~10 degree inclusive edge. (I'd estimated the angle a good while ago on these forums but am too lazy to look it up.) Straight razor edges are very delicate, but this angle seems appropriate for cutting facial hair with very little force while gliding over skin on a lubrication layer.
I strop before each use and don't need to take abrasives to it more than 2-3 times a year.
Well I am a fan, and Old is just a state of mind....or an opinion, take yer pick.jackknifeh wrote:To Simple Man and Simple Man only:
If you aren't an "old" Lynyrd Skynyrd fan you need to change your name! Just kidding (almost).
It's not as bad as you think. Straight razors are generally deeply hollow-ground on both sides, and you can rest the spine on the stone at the same time as the edge to hold more or less the correct angle. Because of that, I'd say it might even be a smidge easier than sharpening a folder or kitchen knife. One tends to use a less aggressive stone than for other knives (I use a Norton 4K/8K waterstone), but that's neither here nor there.jackknifeh wrote:Hey FLYcrash,
Good reply. I wasn't thinking of straight razor use. When I think of knives or cutting tools they would go into the following initial categories: Hatchets (gardening tools), knives for EDC or work, then straight razor (which would be in a different category all in themselves due to accuracy excellence). I don't think I could sharpen anything like this. Not enough knowledge or experience.
I've not been able to pick up a straight razor yet, but I do definitely want one; I just keep buying knives! I do however use a badger brush and traditional cream and it is fantastic! It is sandalwood scented and wheww it's nice! Any recommendations for a rather inexpensive straight razor?FLYcrash wrote:It's not as bad as you think. Straight razors are generally deeply hollow-ground on both sides, and you can rest the spine on the stone at the same time as the edge to hold more or less the correct angle. Because of that, I'd say it might even be a smidge easier than sharpening a folder or kitchen knife. One tends to use a less aggressive stone than for other knives (I use a Norton 4K/8K waterstone), but that's neither here nor there.
I encourage anyone who isn't too hurried about getting up in the morning to take up traditional shaving. The straight razor's super fun for anyone who likes knives, and it is easier on the skin than those quickly-dulled expensive cartridges. At the very least, it's worth it to invest in a real badger-hair shaving brush and use proper shaving soap or cream. The brush gently exfoliates, and you can kiss your zits goodbye...
...OK, I'll stop proselytizing.