How do you sharpen?
Good idea with the zips. :cool:skcusloa wrote:I use a sharpmaker.
I have a triangle steel file that I zip tie to the sharpmaker stones to remove the knicks and stuff in the blade. Didn't feel like buying the diamond stones.
:spyder: Control the HEAD...and you control the SNAKE! :spyder:
:spyder: Integrity is being good even if no one is watching :spyder:
:spyder: Integrity is being good even if no one is watching :spyder:
sand paper is underrated. This is how I do mine to a fine grit. even the great Bob Terzuola has said he has used paper and glass.thebestnoobcake wrote:I just touched up my blades yesterday and as I sat there slowly grinding away, I began to wonder how other people sharpen their knives.
Personally, (cos I'm a cheapass =) I use sandpaper, an old broken tile and a desk lamp.
So.. how do you do it?
...oh you know why!
- Simple Man
- Member
- Posts: 2036
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 12:00 pm
- Location: Kentucky
1 x 30 Harbor Freight belt sander w/ many Lee Valley Belts
3 strops (Lee Valley green, MAAS, plain)
Sandpaper, various grits
Sharpmaker
Couple diamond sharpeners
Lansky dogbone - field
In order of use :p
3 strops (Lee Valley green, MAAS, plain)
Sandpaper, various grits
Sharpmaker
Couple diamond sharpeners
Lansky dogbone - field
In order of use :p
Romans 8:31 ....If God is for us, who can be against us? - <><
The Spyderco hole is a rotating mechanical assembly of one part.
".....tractors don't have to look like Ferraris" -Sal
The Spyderco hole is a rotating mechanical assembly of one part.
".....tractors don't have to look like Ferraris" -Sal
- Nifty_Nives
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- Joined: Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:05 pm
- Location: Maryland, USA
I hand sharpen my blades with a Whetstone. There is a rough side if your blade is really dull, and a fine side for lazer sharp edges. Generally i will sharpen dry, but occasionally, i will add oil (hence the name whetstone) and it works relatively well, but i am looking into getting a sharpmaker soon. Arent they like $30 + rods?
Andy
- CanisMajor
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- Location: USA
Sharpmaker's are about $50 depending on where you go, I got mine on Amazon for $50 shipped.Nifty_Nives wrote:I hand sharpen my blades with a Whetstone. There is a rough side if your blade is really dull, and a fine side for lazer sharp edges. Generally i will sharpen dry, but occasionally, i will add oil (hence the name whetstone) and it works relatively well, but i am looking into getting a sharpmaker soon. Arent they like $30 + rods?
Canis
Dare. Risk. Dream.
"Your body may be gone, I'm gonna carry you in.
In my head, in my heart, in my soul.
And maybe we'll get lucky and we'll both live again.
Well I don't know. I don't know. I don't know. Don't think so."
- Modest Mouse "Ocean Breathes Salty"
"Your body may be gone, I'm gonna carry you in.
In my head, in my heart, in my soul.
And maybe we'll get lucky and we'll both live again.
Well I don't know. I don't know. I don't know. Don't think so."
- Modest Mouse "Ocean Breathes Salty"
-
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- Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 2:21 pm
- Location: SoCal, behind the Orange Curtain
I use the sharpmaker - just got diamond rods for reprofiling. Im afraid, though, of losing what little freehand sharpening skill I had...
___________________________________________
2011: G10 Dragonfly ^ Breeden Rescue ^ Bug ^ Honeybee ^ Centofante 3 ^ Woodcraft Mule ^SFO Visit Buys = Frn Stretch & Native 4 CF!! ^ Salt 1 ^ Burgundy Calypso ZDP-189 ^ Walker Blue Almite ^ Native 5 ^ Squeak ^ Chaparral ^ Urban Olive Green ^ STREET BEAT!!...
2012: Caly Jr (vintage/NIB!), SS Navigator-fave LBK of all time, Jester, Orange Dodo, CS Orange PM2,Techno, Bradley! AIR!!
2011: G10 Dragonfly ^ Breeden Rescue ^ Bug ^ Honeybee ^ Centofante 3 ^ Woodcraft Mule ^SFO Visit Buys = Frn Stretch & Native 4 CF!! ^ Salt 1 ^ Burgundy Calypso ZDP-189 ^ Walker Blue Almite ^ Native 5 ^ Squeak ^ Chaparral ^ Urban Olive Green ^ STREET BEAT!!...
2012: Caly Jr (vintage/NIB!), SS Navigator-fave LBK of all time, Jester, Orange Dodo, CS Orange PM2,Techno, Bradley! AIR!!
As a long time woodworker I've accumulated many devices, sanders, stones and techniques, combinations of which are satisfactory but none perfect. For my EDC Spydercos I start with a sharp factory edge and strop frequently (once a week, at least) using one micron DMT diamond paste rubbed into the surface of a 3" wide x 12" long x 2" thick block of MDF (with the surface of the block first lightly flat sanded to P2000 grit). This is fine for everyday chores (not fine woodworking). For a good discussion of the stropping process see the stropping section here:http://www.pinewoodforge.com/sharpening.html
Yeah, inprovisation all the way! Don't forget a newspaper and your belt if it's leather.vampyrewolf wrote:Lets see... what have I sharpened on...
benchstones, files, sandpaper (flat or around a dowel), dremel, 6-30" grinder, car window, coffee mug... aligned my edge with metal counter tops a few times...
My usual sharpening is done freehand with 200/300 & 500/800 stones, spydie 303mf, 2.0 (rough side) and 0.5 (smooth side) micron paste on my strop.
When i have it at hand, I use a Fallkniven DC4 diamond/ceramic stone.
My sharpening equipment
I tend to stay away from sandpaper these days, only because my trailing edge sharpening skills really need improving. I've royally screwed up a couple of blades using this method with a heavy hand.
Jez.
- Norton fine / coarse stone - for when I've really dulled my blade
- 701 profile stones - I use these for 95% of all my sharpening
- Lansky "dogbone" - in the field
- Std Lansky kit - Used very rarely, usually if I'm having trouble establishing the desired angle when reprofiling.
I tend to stay away from sandpaper these days, only because my trailing edge sharpening skills really need improving. I've royally screwed up a couple of blades using this method with a heavy hand.
Jez.
FB04PBB, C07FS4K390, C12GS, C12SBK2, C36GS, C36GTIP, C36CFM390P, C36CFTIP, C36GPBORE, C41BKPS, C44GP&SGY, C46PS, C46GPBK, C52BKP, C52FPGYE, C63G3, C65TIP, C70S, C81FG, C81GS2, C81CFM4P2, C83BM, C83GP2, C101GP, C101GPS, C101CF90VP2, C105, C134CF, C151GODTiPBK