How do you sharpen?

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.

How are your knives sharpened?

Sent to the Spydie spa
3
3%
Sandpaper
8
7%
Stones
62
55%
Power tools
9
8%
Magic
9
8%
Other
21
19%
I don't use my knives =O
0
No votes
 
Total votes: 112

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skcusloa
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#21

Post by skcusloa »

I use a sharpmaker.

I have a triangle steel file that I zip tie to the sharpmaker stones to remove the knicks and stuff in the blade. Didn't feel like buying the diamond stones.
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Piet.S
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#22

Post by Piet.S »

Spyderco benchstones, medium and fine.
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BHDKnifer
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#23

Post by BHDKnifer »

90% sharpmaker 10% stones. The sharpmaker kicks butt.
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BHDKnifer
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#24

Post by BHDKnifer »

skcusloa wrote:I use a sharpmaker.

I have a triangle steel file that I zip tie to the sharpmaker stones to remove the knicks and stuff in the blade. Didn't feel like buying the diamond stones.
Good idea with the zips. :cool:
:spyder: Control the HEAD...and you control the SNAKE! :spyder:
:spyder: Integrity is being good even if no one is watching :spyder:
clovisc
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#25

Post by clovisc »

i have always used the sharpmaker. that should definitely be an option on the poll here.
:spyder: :spyder: :spyder:
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demtek9
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#26

Post by demtek9 »

thebestnoobcake wrote:I just touched up my blades yesterday and as I sat there slowly grinding away, I began to wonder how other people sharpen their knives.

Personally, (cos I'm a cheapass =) I use sandpaper, an old broken tile and a desk lamp.

So.. how do you do it?
sand paper is underrated. This is how I do mine to a fine grit. even the great Bob Terzuola has said he has used paper and glass.
...oh you know why!
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Simple Man
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#27

Post by Simple Man »

1 x 30 Harbor Freight belt sander w/ many Lee Valley Belts
3 strops (Lee Valley green, MAAS, plain)
Sandpaper, various grits
Sharpmaker
Couple diamond sharpeners
Lansky dogbone - field

In order of use :p
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carrot
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#28

Post by carrot »

I consider the Sharpmaker to go under the "magic" category, so that's what I voted for.
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Joshua J.
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#29

Post by Joshua J. »

Start off with a Diamond hone to set the edge, then the full set of Spyderco benchstones to polish it up, and finish off with a good stropping.

Spend as much time on the back bevel as the edge bevel and you'll have a nice convex edge to boot!
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Nifty_Nives
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#30

Post by Nifty_Nives »

I hand sharpen my blades with a Whetstone. There is a rough side if your blade is really dull, and a fine side for lazer sharp edges. Generally i will sharpen dry, but occasionally, i will add oil (hence the name whetstone) and it works relatively well, but i am looking into getting a sharpmaker soon. Arent they like $30 + rods?
Andy
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CanisMajor
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#31

Post by CanisMajor »

Nifty_Nives wrote:I hand sharpen my blades with a Whetstone. There is a rough side if your blade is really dull, and a fine side for lazer sharp edges. Generally i will sharpen dry, but occasionally, i will add oil (hence the name whetstone) and it works relatively well, but i am looking into getting a sharpmaker soon. Arent they like $30 + rods?
Sharpmaker's are about $50 depending on where you go, I got mine on Amazon for $50 shipped.

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skatenut
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#32

Post by skatenut »

Sharpmaker mostly, or a Sieger long life artificial ruby rod, works like a charm
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nateaowen
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#33

Post by nateaowen »

I sharpen on Japanese water stones for most blades and the sharpmaker for my recurve blades and serrations.
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T-Rex
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#34

Post by T-Rex »

Spyderco 701 Profile Med/Fine
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Pneumothorax
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#35

Post by Pneumothorax »

I use the sharpmaker - just got diamond rods for reprofiling. Im afraid, though, of losing what little freehand sharpening skill I had...
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AKWolf
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#36

Post by AKWolf »

EdgePro for large kitchen and hard to sharpen knives. Sharpmaker for quickies....
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Jazz
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#37

Post by Jazz »

Benchstones, ceramics (sometimes), strops, and always steels - freehand only.

- best wishes, Jazz.
buckthorn
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#38

Post by buckthorn »

As a long time woodworker I've accumulated many devices, sanders, stones and techniques, combinations of which are satisfactory but none perfect. For my EDC Spydercos I start with a sharp factory edge and strop frequently (once a week, at least) using one micron DMT diamond paste rubbed into the surface of a 3" wide x 12" long x 2" thick block of MDF (with the surface of the block first lightly flat sanded to P2000 grit). This is fine for everyday chores (not fine woodworking). For a good discussion of the stropping process see the stropping section here:http://www.pinewoodforge.com/sharpening.html
Koen Z
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#39

Post by Koen Z »

vampyrewolf wrote:Lets see... what have I sharpened on...

benchstones, files, sandpaper (flat or around a dowel), dremel, 6-30" grinder, car window, coffee mug... aligned my edge with metal counter tops a few times...

My usual sharpening is done freehand with 200/300 & 500/800 stones, spydie 303mf, 2.0 (rough side) and 0.5 (smooth side) micron paste on my strop.
Yeah, inprovisation all the way! Don't forget a newspaper and your belt if it's leather.

When i have it at hand, I use a Fallkniven DC4 diamond/ceramic stone.
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jezabel
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#40

Post by jezabel »

My sharpening equipment
  • Norton fine / coarse stone - for when I've really dulled my blade
  • 701 profile stones - I use these for 95% of all my sharpening
  • Lansky "dogbone" - in the field
  • Std Lansky kit - Used very rarely, usually if I'm having trouble establishing the desired angle when reprofiling.
:

I tend to stay away from sandpaper these days, only because my trailing edge sharpening skills really need improving. I've royally screwed up a couple of blades using this method with a heavy hand.

Jez.
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