Spyderco Forums

I'm currently looking at two different knives. both have similar blade style and shape.

difference: one is AUS8 and the other ATS-34.



which one should I get?

I like AUS 8. Very easy to sharpen,holds an edge ok and I have had no problem with staining of the blade.

Jeff <img src=http://kraziekurtis.50megs.com/samurai.gif = >

Ah, did someone say ATS-34?<img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>

Dude, I think that ATS-34 was one of the best steels ever designed. It is very good at its edge holding capabilities, not altogher too hard to resharpen, tough as nails, and very affordable for the general public. Another closely related steel to ATS-34 is 154CM which is kind of on its way out. Granted, CMP44V and VG-10 are the "new" upcoming steels of the day, but I still like to hold a knife that has "ATS-34" stamped on it's blade.

Good luck,

Spydernut

While were on thr topic of steels, how does gin-1(g-2) preform? I would like to get a g-10 navigator. It would be my first g-10 knife. But I'm alittle nervous about the steel. **holding a sign that says, <i><b>NAVIGATOR OR BUST</i></b>**

<img src="http://kraziekurtis.50megs.com/samurai.gif"><font color=red>In the land of knives, <img src="http://spyderco.com/forum/spyder.gif"> is KING!!</font><img src="http://kraziekurtis.50megs.com/samurai.gif">

Not sure how GIN 1 stacks up to other steels, but I've had the Nav with GIN 1 for many months now and no problems whatsoever with the steel.

Oh and I forgot to mention, my brief experience with ATS 34 has been excellent.

<img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>

Most people seem to like ATS-34 over AUS-8, BUT...it depends what you prefer in a blade. IMO, AUS-8 is a good steel. It resharpens up easily, takes a razor edge, holds an edge decently, and has better stain resistance.

ATS-34 is heat-treated harder, holds an edge longer, a bit less stain resistance (depending on heat treat) and not quite as easy to resharpen as AUS-8.

Actually, I don't think 154CM is on the way out...a lot of companies are using it a lot, and Benchmade recently switched their ATS-34 models to 154CM. MOD, Emerson, Gerber, and Camillus are other examples of companies that use 154CM.

I've had varying results with ATS-34. The only Spyderco I have with it is the Wegner, and it's the sharpest plainedge knife I ever owned, and so far no rust problems or staining at all. Other ATS-34 knives I've had would discolor, esp. around the thumb stud or opening hole area.
Jim

Isn't 154CM just American ATS-34?

If I'm remembering right, then I have a feeling it'll be on the way IN... what with the new steel taxes and all.

Oh, and on topic:

ImpyBoy, if you live/work near a body of water, or you're not very good at sharpening but you don't mind doing it, get AUS8. Otherwise get ATS34.

Thanks for the great response. I really love this site!
I'm gonna go the ATS-34. I like the idea of it holding the edge better than the AUS8. I currently have 2 enduras and a ladybug.. which are all AUS8's...they still very sharp, mainly coz i'm too scared to sharpen them.. but an ATS-34 will mean I can put off sharpening it even longer than the AUS8's. hope that makes sense.

anyway, i guess that leaves me with the next question....
ATS-34 or ATS55 or VG-10?

Sooner or later you'll have to sharpen the knife you buy and when
it's in ATS-34 you'll soon wonder "why the heck did I buy this darn thing"
it's that hard. If I had you're choice between Aus-8 and Ats-34 it'd be no
contest. The Aus-8 would win EVERY time. Ats-34 is a fad steel who's
time has come and , thankfully , gone. If you like wasting money buy
the Ats-34.......if you really want to use it buy the Aus-8. Your choice ,mate.

Thanks for making the decision harder, tightwad. but I do appreciate your input!

I know what you mean...i guess when the time comes to get it sharpened, I will get it done professionally. I currently have 3 AUS8 knives, and I don't feel confident enough to sharpen those either. when the time comes, they too will be sharpened by a pro. The first one, i have owned for about 4 years now, and still doesn't need sharpening yet. so anything which holds an edge better than AUS8, I will be more than satisfied with.

I find ats-55(3 knives) to be a good steel for EDC. it hold an edge pretty decently and sharpens easy. Heat treat will make the difference on this one. bad treat and they rust as you look at them. I let my Cricket(Serrated) get truly dull over about 2-3 weeks of boxes. Took me 2 hrs with the 204(in my early days of using one).

ats-34: only had one in this steel, the Wegner jr. I used it in the kitchen plenty, and in the yard a couple times. It is easy to sharpen, and takes a good sharp edge. Never let this one get dull, so I don't know if it would be hard to recover.

vg-10: Only have one, my Calypso jr lt(c52). Use it daily sharpened to 30 degrees. Kitchen use for this one is a must. Best pocket cutlery out there! Just converted 2 people today showing them this one.

aus-8: think this is what is used in the ladybug... I used mine for a LONG time at work, Feb-Nov '01. It got DULL, it got sharpened back up in about 4hrs... (I got the guys at Cutting Edge to fix my problem, didn't sharpen for a while).

440C: have one, the Q(c35), and not using it for EDC, it will be a dress occasion only knife. This puppy is sharp!

<img src=http://kraziekurtis.50megs.com/samurai.gif = > We all start with 10 fingers. Those with Spydies have 9 to spare, Still need a thumb. Good thing I still have 8 to spare... <img src="http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/372fcedb ... 8Av0aKGWjc">

I'm a fan of both steels, although I usually don't compare them together.

For some reason I divide stainless steels into groups based on edge-holding. Among the steels that fall below 440C in wear resistance, 8A is my favorite. It's easy to sharpen, it's reasonably tough, it takes a killer edge, it's plenty rust resistant. I'd characterize wear-resistance as "acceptable". I'd pick 8A over its ostensible competitors, like 44A, 420HC, etc..

ATS-34 is a solid notch or two up in wear-resistance, and as a result, if you're planning on going for a while between sharpenings, it is an easy winner over 8A. ATS-34 is also much stronger than 8A, the way both are usually heat treated. The flip side of being wear-resistant is that ATS-34 is harder to sharpen. I find that ATS-34 doesn't quite take an edge like 8A either, nor is ATS-34 as rust-resistant.

Given two otherwise identical knives, I'll take the ATS-34 one almost every time, with niche exceptions like I might pick 8A if working in corrosive conditions, etc.

One last note: I really don't find sharpening ATS-34 to be that much of a chore, provided you stay away from natural hones and stick with ultra-hard modern hones like ceramics and diamonds. It's really no big deal, and certainly not anything like the challenge of getting a good edge on, say, S90V or the like.

Joe

My only knife is ats 34 (wegner jr.) and, yes, I find it really hard to sharpen. I can get a small burr... but it seems impossible to get rid of it. Will the white stones of the 204 be enough to get it off, or will I NEED to strop it?

Also, I find that it's impossible to get a "Utility" edge, cause I makes a burr, and I can't get rid of it with the gray stones.

-map

Tightwad, I really like 8A, but In my openion it is not in the same league with 440C, ATS-34/CM154 & VG-10. To me ATS-34 holds an edge for ever, and if you can't sharpen it. You shouldn't be able to sharpen anything, it's as easy as 1095! I shouldn't really comment on VG-10, because I haven't tried it yet, but that will be changing within the next two weeks, hurry U.P.S.! RKBA!

mini -- REgardless of the steel, I always double-grind the burr off. That means I raise the angle a couple of degrees, and take a couple VERY LIGHT swipes. If that didn't take the burr off, then I'd resort to stropping.

Once I'm done stropping, I have a razor polished edge, which many folks here like, but I don't. So I go back to the brown stones, and using very very light strokes -- like no more pressure than the weight of the knife itself pushing down on the stone -- I rough it back up. Be careful here -- if you use too much pressure, you'll re-create the burr.

Joe

ATS-34, -55, or VG-10. It all depends on your likes. 34 is pretty rust/stain resistance, but is a bit tough to sharpen. 55 is really easy to sharpen, performs well, but isn't as good as 34 in the rust category. 10 is great as far as rust and performance, but is a little hard to sharpen without trouble.

Simply put (my humble opinion, of course):
Stain resistance VG-10>ATS-34>ATS-55 (55 almost equals 34)
Ease of sharpening ATS-55>ATS-34>VG-10
Edge performance VG-10>ATS-55>ATS-34

Keepin' it real...real sharp, that is.

That's cool, joe... but I'm baffled why you would create a polished edge, and then rough it up. Wouldn't it work just as well to make it rough in the first splace, and save some time?

-map

It does make sense. But sometimes, the burr refuses to cooperate, which was what I was addressing. Sometimes the burr gets very floppy, and in that case, you gotta go to finer and finer stones, and in the worst case, you have to go to a strop. A fine stone will polish the edge; a strop will razor polish it. But the top priority is to remove the burr by all means necessary. I rough the edge back up if removing the burr results in too-fine an edge.

joe