Order non-sharpened blades / or a chisel grind?

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Ted
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Order non-sharpened blades / or a chisel grind?

#1

Post by Ted »

Just curious, is there any way of ordering an unsharpened knife? Yesterday I came across a post somewhere on chisel grinds and thought it would be interesting to see a Spyderco model (para military for ex.) with a chisel grind edge.

If not, I'll just need to grind a way the full edge with my Tormek, but I'll be left with a little less knife ;)

Has such an edge ever been considered by Spyderco on a folder? I guess that sharpening is a bit easier since you only have to concentrate on one side, and then just strop of the burr on the other side once you get it there.

Any thoughts on this?
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FLYBYU44
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#2

Post by FLYBYU44 »

Chisel ground knives aren't the bees knees to be honest with you. They will cut as well as anything that Spyderco currently makes, but they slice on an angle due to the varied cutting pressure on the edge. So you always seem to be angling the knife towards the cut in order to cut straight. The grinds that Spyderco uses are practical and work better in everyday use.
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#3

Post by Ted »

FLYBYU44 wrote:Chisel ground knives aren't the bees knees to be honest with you. They will cut as well as anything that Spyderco currently makes, but they slice on an angle due to the varied cutting pressure on the edge. So you always seem to be angling the knife towards the cut in order to cut straight. The grinds that Spyderco uses are practical and work better in everyday use.
Yeah I know that - I have a japanese kitchen knife with a chisel grind and it does just that. I'm curious how it would work with a smaller edge on a full flat grind knife. With 'not so deep' cuts or woodwork I can imagine there is some advantage, like a more precise starting point and similarities to a normal chisel on wood. Then, I could be totally wrong :)
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#4

Post by Bill1170 »

On a single bevel edge you are better off stoning the burr away than stropping it. Why? Because stropping a flat bevel, it is very easy to dub over the edge. Just ask a fine woodworker about his chisels.

Also, like FLYBYU44 says, an uneven bevel tends to veer off to one side in the cut. This sort of knife has a place in kitchen work for making paper thin slices where the flat side references off the food and the bevel parts off the slices. This is a traditional Japanese design, but I gave mine to a Japanese friend who was into that art. Standard knives work better for me.

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#5

Post by FLYBYU44 »

It might aid you in directing the cutting edge of the blade over a specific point better, and in certain directions it could aid in blade control when making deep cuts. My Emerson I honed to a zero grind chisel edge and it would slice as well as any Spydie, but like I mentioned, it also tended to pull to one side when serving kitchen duty, a point which made me question the thought behind chisel ground blades. Also it tended to be a pain to sharpen I found, I'm used to standard blades and it was just annoying.
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#6

Post by The Deacon »

One of the problems with many chisel ground folders is that they are ground for show, not for go. For a right handed person, the grind should be on the right side of the blade, but most makers put it on the left side, because it's more visually interesting than the flat side would be. The same is true, although to a lesser extent, with Spyderco serrations.
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Ted
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#7

Post by Ted »

The Deacon wrote:One of the problems with many chisel ground folders is that they are ground for show, not for go. For a right handed person, the grind should be on the right side of the blade, but most makers put it on the left side, because it's more visually interesting than the flat side would be. The same is true, although to a lesser extent, with Spyderco serrations.

That's something you see often indeed. The right side is where I would put mine, so not visually appealing, but hopefulling working better :)
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Blerv
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#8

Post by Blerv »

I think it would be a good grind for a defense tool. Snody supposedly grinds quit a few (like custom Yojimbo's) with a "zero angle" for extreme sharpness. Sharpening and cut prettiness don't mater for some stuff I guess.
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#9

Post by Ted »

That could very well work. Defense purposes is not my goal however. Wood work more however, or cutting "non-deep" materials (thus no food prep). I guess it could work well on a Para Military or FFG Manix 2. 40 degr would be my first try, easier to go from 40 to 30 then the other way around :D
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#10

Post by Sequimite »

My Spyder edge knives are chisel grinds, including the plain edge on the tip. Spyderco combo edge knives I own are a mixed bag; some have a chisel grind PE portion with a sight back bevel and some are like full Spyderco PEs. If you started with an SE, you'd have less grinding to do, but the edge would be on your wrong side.
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#11

Post by ChapmanPreferred »

At my local custom knife show, there is a gent who makes tactical folders with chisel grinds and claims it is superior edge geometry. I would try a Spyderco version! :)
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