serrated hawkbill

Pete1977 · #1

I am looking for a large hawkbill to take to work when I go back on the tug in 2 weeks. I will most likely end up with the H-1 spyderhawk but I really like the superhawk.

did the superhawk come serrated or just in plain edge?

I have a harpy and a tasman that I will take if I don't end up getting a larger hawkbill. I see a LOT of merlin knockoffs on the river but haven't used a hawkbill at work myself. I think its about time I tried one and the harpy or tasman will probably suffice but I prefer a longer blade.

any thoughts on either the superhawk or spyderhawk?

catamount · #2

The Superhawk only comes in PE. I love my Superhawk, but I think the Spyderhawk is a better choice for you, not to mention cheaper

captnvegtble · #3

I'm also in the market for a hawkbill knife, but am looking for one with a SE. Does anybody know of any new hawkbills in the pipeline (besides the ladybug hawkbill) after the superhawk is discontinued. I've been looking at the H1 Spyderhawk, but am a little wary of the H1 steel having never owned a knife with that steel before.

bk400 · #4

I have both the Tasman and the Spyderhawk in both PE and SE. I have found the Tasman PE to be the most versatile. I've found that the smaller size allows for better control. The Spyderhawk positions the "curve" a bit too far from my hand when I am cutting.

tonydahose · #5

hey Capt. don't worry about the H1 steel. it works great and it gets harder as you use it and sharpen it. i have used my tasman for a few years and it works great. i have used it for general cutting and in emergencies as well. it has helped get cut wires in pin-in accidents (the reason for the burned off tooth), cut thru some tv cable that was tangling up another fireman in a fire, it is always clipped on the outside of my my firecoat. i used to have a snap-it (i forgot which steel it had in it) and it started rusting after just one fire. if you are going to be in a wet enviroment H1 is the steel to go with it. the only care you need to show it is to sharpen as needed.

captnvegtble · #6

tonydahose wrote: the only care you need to show it is to sharpen as needed.

Hey Tony,

Thanks for the great pics. Looks like your Tasman has gotten a lot of use. What do you use to sharpen your serrations, do you find the Sharpmaker effective? (I'm new to sharpening, haven't done it much so I'm a little nervous about sharpening serrations).

tonydahose · #7

yep, that is all you need. i was just using some japanese water stones yesterday and if you arent perfect with them thru all the stones you can mess it up at the very end. the sharpmaker on the other hand is so freaking easy it is almost impossible to mess up. maybe if you were in 40' waves and trying to do it, then i could see it not getting too sharp. the edge of the triangle stones is what you use for the serrations. for hawkbills you start wit the tip of the knife at the top of the stones and as you bring the blade down you push the knife foward . i hope that makes sense, it is much easier to do then type how. i am sure there is a video on youtube that would make what i am typing understandable. :D

Murdoc · #8

Tony, I just wanted to say that I always LOVE to see your Tasman salt pics!

Granted, we see loads of BEAUTIFUL pics of Spydies OOTB, and it never ceases to amaze me how great they look, but seeing your knife that "has been put to good use" (that's how the standard "resharpening return letter" from Spyderco descibes it) is priceless.

I bet most of us collectors secretly want one of our knives to be used by us like that. It is always a shame to know about the potential that sleeps in these knives we all love so much, and we're mostly not able to use it like intended in our lives. The toughest use most of the knives see is cutting cardboard *yawn* (and we all know that this job could be done by a cheap disposable cutter just as well, if not better).

To see one of us having and using a knife like that in the "right" way is just amazing for me, and I bet for lots of us, including Sal. In the end, that's what these knives are designed and made for.

Pete and captn, go ahead and get this knife! Use the heck out of it, and show the knife and maybe the operational aera to us! Not only you will be satisfied with them, you will please all of us (who don't have the opportunty to use them properly) with stories and pics about it.

One of these (in PE, it was a bargain, couldn't resist) is on the way to me, and I can't wait, but like always, it makes me a bit sad that I just don't lead a life that allows me to USE them like they should. But knowing about people like Pete and captn cheers me up again :D

Dennis

tonydahose · #9

thanks for the kind words dennis. i should update the pics of that knife because it did manage to get a little dirtier...lol i am thinking of swapping it out with a new spyderhawk, bigger is better, right :D ? that or i am trying to figure out a way to connect my jumpmaster to my coat behind my light so it isnt too visible to the public when we are doing CO calls or medical runs. i also want to make sure it doesnt come out of the sheath during a fire. i bet in 90% of the fires i have been in someone (me more than a few times, one of them i lost my mask and we couldnt find it) has lost something at the end of the fire and we all start searching for it under all the debris.

hickster · #10

The Jumpmaster is a serrated BEAST :D If it can't cut it, you need an axe or a powertool- simple as that.

Between a Jumpmaster for heavy duty and a Tasman for close in work, I think you'd have it covered. The Jumpmaster is pretty dang secure when clicked in to its sheath. Hard to imagine it getting loose.
I wish my Jumpmaster had yellow FRN (and I'd like to have a PE Spyderhawk with black FRN). You know, the old "bright color = serrated" thing.
hickster

Pete1977 · #11

I will probably try to get a spyderhawk h-1 before I go back on the boat on the 10th. if I can't I will bring the harpy or the tasman. I mainly cut large diameter rope 1.5 inch poly and 2 to 2.25 inch nylon/poly or dacron/poly and plain edged knives are usually dull before the cut is finished. serrations are a must. I think the longer blade on the spyderhawk might make this job a little easier. plus I am required to have a folder up to 4 inches so if I can carry the longer blade I try to do so. its going to come down to buying the spyderhawk or using the tasman or harpy that I have haha.

capt...have NO worries about the edge retention or corrosion resistance of H-1...it is an excellent work steel and will stand up to hard use.

murdoc- I will try to post some pics of some spyders and byrds I have used as a commercial fisherman and a professional mariner including a large dyad, endura, atlantic salt, byrd raven, cara cara rescue, and delica.