S30V Sharpening problem

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enyong112
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S30V Sharpening problem

#1

Post by enyong112 »

Hi Guys,

I'm having trouble sharpening my S30V Para. First time im having problems w/ this, I use a sharpmaker, spending 10-20 mins (twice) on the grey stones (30 degrees), no results... what else can i do? Please help... thanks
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imatyssik
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#2

Post by imatyssik »

I had a simmilar problem and it was due to me alone and not the knife. When using Sharpmaker it is not hard to screw-up the angle. Try to mark edge with the black marker (it has been sugested on this forum) and do some sharpening. After that take a look and see if you are touvhing the proper parts of the blade.

Hope that helps. :)
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bh49
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#3

Post by bh49 »

It can be more than one issue, so more info would be nice.
But the first thing, put magic marker on the edge to see if you are working on the edge (sharpening) or shoulders (reprofiling). I had several Spydercos, which came with primary bevel more than 30 degrees, so I had to reprofile them. In this case midium stone will not be a lot of help, unless you are ready to spend hours, also rods are getting loaded fairly fast, do not forget to clean them.
Let us know.
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It's the Sharpening> not the steel

#4

Post by JD Spydo »

Sharpening an S30V blade in principle is really no different than sharpening most other blade steels. Many people use the Sharpmaker without fully understanding the steps you must take to assure proper relief and proper angle.

I highly urge you to go back and view the video/DVD again that came with the Sharpmaker. Also I urge you to read the booklet that comes with the 204 Sharpmaker as well.

That sharpener will sharpen any knife with any blade steel if you use it in proper sequence. Now S30V is a very hard steel like most other CPM steels are. But with the proper reprofiling and proper angles you can sharpen any knife.

What you're experiencing is not a blade steel problem but rather a problem with executing the proper sharpening technique. It's not nuclear physics. It's really rather easy once you get the hang of it. There are even some great Sharpmaker techniques on YOUTUBE.
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Billy
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#5

Post by Billy »

Have you tried the 40 degree slots? I never, ever use the 30 degree slots. That angle is for back beveling and you may only be removing the shoulders on your Para by using the 30 degree slots. Of course, as everyone has suggested, try the marker trick and see if you are hitting the edge or just the shoulder. I also like to stand so I'm looking straight down over the Sharpmaker so I can see if there is any daylight between the edge and rod. If there is I can adjust my angle until I close that gap and get the edge against the rod with the proper angle. I've found this especially important with curved/recurved blades like the Adventura and Kris.

I'm sure with a little closer inspection of your technique you should have no problems getting that blade hair-whittling sharp.
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Bruceter
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#6

Post by Bruceter »

If you are using the 30 degree setting on the Sharpmaker you are probably hitting the shoulders of the bevel and not the edge. As suggested, try marking up the blade bevel with a marker, take a few strokes and look at the bevel and you will see where the material is being removed.

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Water Bug
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#7

Post by Water Bug »

For me there are times, and blades, where I need something courser than the Gray Triangle Stones on the Spyderco Sharpmaker to get the job done, so I pull out the Diamond Triangle Stones (purchased separately) to help remove metal faster and get the edge started. So, if you're doing everything right and it still seems very slow progress in sharpening your knife then the courser diamond stones may help.
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enyong112
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#8

Post by enyong112 »

Thanks guys for your suggestions, marker test worked... All it needed was some patience... after 20 mins on the 30 degrees, all it needed was just 10 in the 40... I got it SKINNING PAPER again... :D
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Billy
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#9

Post by Billy »

enyong112 wrote: I got it SKINNING PAPER again... :D
Awesome. That's a satisfying feeling! :cool:
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