T-mag conversion?
Well, not to quote myself, but I can't really come up with anything that doesn't involve huge modification to the blade tang, precision machined parts, or questionable lock up.cobrajoe wrote:Oooh, I just got an idea for a lock that could keep the origional scales and maybe the magnet while still being completely ambidextrous!
I'll take some time to draw this up, but it sounds promising in my mind :p
I might have better luck coming up with something when I finally get it in my hands, but so far, everything I can think of is rather unfeasible.
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- spydercofanatic
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- The Deacon
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Just tested my CC#d one. Assuming nothing changed on the later ones, the magnet's poles are the top and bottom surface of the bar. IF someone can find a source for 1/4" X 1/4" X 1/2" N52 Neodymium magnets with the poles at the ends, replacing it might at least be worth a try. I have never had mine apart, and don't to, but it would seem to me there would have be at least a small air gap between the magnet and the "top" surface of the pivot portion of the tang. So, even though you'd loose surface area, you gain direct contact which might increase "grab".
Or am I screwing up my physics royally? Been so many years since 11th grade.
Or am I screwing up my physics royally? Been so many years since 11th grade.
Paul
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What about putting two of these in?The Deacon wrote:Just tested my CC#d one. Assuming nothing changed on the later ones, the magnet's poles are the top and bottom surface of the bar. IF someone can find a source for 1/4" X 1/4" X 1/2" N52 Neodymium magnets with the poles at the ends, replacing it might at least be worth a try. I have never had mine apart, and don't to, but it would seem to me there would have be at least a small air gap between the magnet and the "top" surface of the pivot portion of the tang. So, even though you'd loose surface area, you gain direct contact which might increase "grab".
Or am I screwing up my physics royally? Been so many years since 11th grade.
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.a ... B444%2DN52
Since they are cubes you could stack them where they would have the polarity on the ends and be 1/2" long. I would be interested to see someone try it out.
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ill try it out..we just have to figure how the old magnet off...just a pair of pliers and twist/pull it off? i am guessing some epoxy for the new ones would work...any other ideas. is there anybody on here that can figure out the gauss of the magnet on there now. one more concern i have is if this did work would it give you a false sense of security and then you would forget to use the finger choil and then whoopsRazors84 wrote:What about putting two of these in?
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.a ... B444%2DN52
Since they are cubes you could stack them where they would have the polarity on the ends and be 1/2" long. I would be interested to see someone try it out.
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well....
I just asked another prominent Pimmper over on USN...
He has the same responce of "not enough tang" to be able to do anything with it.
So... no lock
-CloCk
He has the same responce of "not enough tang" to be able to do anything with it.
So... no lock
-CloCk
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Thats an idea.You could drill a hole in the tang or just do a cut out for another magnet.I am guessing that by adding a strong magnet in the blade to match up to the one in the scales it would increase the hold open factor by alot.3. Install a second N52 magnet in/on the blade so that the two magnets attract
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http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.a ... 52&cat=168
How bout 2 of these stuck side by side?? N52 strength only $0.62 a piece :D
How bout 2 of these stuck side by side?? N52 strength only $0.62 a piece :D
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Have to admit, based on your photos I was assuming the magnet was just a friction fit in cutouts on both liners.tonydahose wrote:ill try it out..we just have to figure how the old magnet off...just a pair of pliers and twist/pull it off? i am guessing some epoxy for the new ones would work...any other ideas. is there anybody on here that can figure out the gauss of the magnet on there now. one more concern i have is if this did work would it give you a false sense of security and then you would forget to use the finger choil and then whoops
However, my gut feeling says, if there was a "better" magnet for the job, Sal would have found it to begin with, or upgraded to it after the T-Mag started getting dinged for closing if you looked at it crooked. Ditto on the idea of drilling the tang and installing another magnet there.
Which leads me to believe that of all the "Plan B" suggestions mentioned so far, the most practical one is conversion to a fixed blade. Remove the magnet, consrtuct a spacer that would fill the entire frame, skeletonize it if weight is an issue. If there was interest, someone with the right equipment could probably make up a bunch of those.
Paul
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One other thing comes to mind Decon, Mr. Sal also has to keep cost down a little bit. The knife was already at a MSRP of $250 so a stronger magnet costs more. Not saying that the knife is cheap by NO means just keeping the knife from $300 and up. The down side to a stronger magnet that I will be trying to use is that there will be 24lbs holding it open A N D 24lbs fightin me when I close it. I hope to not report my findings with 9 fingers LOL. :D
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Well I just got my T-Mags and I have to say this has become one of my favorite Spydercos! Extremely underrated and who needs the lock? This is a great knife as-is and an excellent slicer. It's also incredibly fun to play with, and the "snick" sound it makes when the magnet contacts the tang is very pleasing.
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Magnet is wrong polarity. The N/S pole are facing either side of handle scale so you'll only have weak side attraction to the blade.spydercofanatic wrote:http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.a ... 52&cat=168
How bout 2 of these stuck side by side?? N52 strength only $0.62 a piece :D
The magnet in the T-Mag appears to be approx 1/4x1/4x1/2 (or near enough), and is magnetized thru thickness. (spine to edge of blade direction).jzmtl wrote:Magnet is wrong polarity. The N/S pole are facing either side of handle scale so you'll only have weak side attraction to the blade.
The magnets in from KJ should work if stacked.
I have my doubts as to whether this will be enough of a difference in feel to make it worth while to most people. The knife is a heck of a long lever arm, and from my investigation, the magnet in there is already pretty **** strong.
The blade is thick enough to support a small 1/8 cube magnet if a slot is ground out for it. That might help the feel in that the lock will then be asymmetric. (i.e., it'll stick open harder than it'll stick closed).