What do we know about 8Cr13MoV?
Hi Jabba,
Welcome to the Spyderco forum.
Why don't you send it back to Spyderco. Call it to my attention.
I don't think the problem was the steel, I think it was the geometry of the serrations., We're working with the maker to refine the teeth.
I've not seen one messed up like that. It would be good to check it out. We'll make it better for you.
sal
Welcome to the Spyderco forum.
Why don't you send it back to Spyderco. Call it to my attention.
I don't think the problem was the steel, I think it was the geometry of the serrations., We're working with the maker to refine the teeth.
I've not seen one messed up like that. It would be good to check it out. We'll make it better for you.
sal
- Fred Sanford
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Jabba i use my frn rodin serrated edge for cutting things its way to small for and i lend it to non knife sheeple who cut things they shouldnt with it ( i lent it to a guy who cut rug on a concrete floor and he was a hack with anything but and exacto knife) and when i get it home i just put it on the sharp maker and its brand new. The steel is fine it has to be what sal said above. I would trust my life to this steal.
Just my opinion but i wouldent hesitate to buy another knife in that steel.
Sixheads
Just my opinion but i wouldent hesitate to buy another knife in that steel.
Sixheads
- jabba359
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I appreciate the warm welcome. I've been a die-hard Spyderco user for ten years (my first was the Q model in 1998). For the past three years I've been a forum reader, joining the forum two years ago, and finally made my first post yesterday. People think I'm crazy when I tell them I spent $50 :eek: on a pocket-knife (the Delica) when I can pick up a _______ at Walmart for $10-15. Over the course of the last seven years, that comes out to 2 cents a day to know that I have a knife that won't let me down. I don't know about them, but that seems downright cheap for some peace of mind. I'll send the Tenacious over so you can check it out. Thanks for the help!sal wrote:Hi Jabba,
Welcome to the Spyderco forum.
Why don't you send it back to Spyderco. Call it to my attention.
I don't think the problem was the steel, I think it was the geometry of the serrations., We're working with the maker to refine the teeth.
I've not seen one messed up like that. It would be good to check it out. We'll make it better for you.
sal
- mrappraisit
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You're not the only one, and well said.jabba359 wrote: People think I'm crazy when I tell them I spent $50 :eek: on a pocket-knife (the Delica) when I can pick up a _______ at Walmart for $10-15. Over the course of the last seven years, that comes out to 2 cents a day to know that I have a knife that won't let me down. I don't know about them, but that seems downright cheap for some peace of mind. I'll send the Tenacious over so you can check it out. Thanks for the help!
After enlightenment, the laundry.
- dialex
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Hi Paul.The Deacon wrote:Gotta love well reasoned scientific analysis.
I really wish I could afford to run this experiment.
Start by having a dozen "sets" of eight knives each made. Each set would contain eight otherwise identical fixed blade knives in:
The blades would each be uniquely numbered, and only I would know the key. Two sets would go to Sal, one for CATRA, and then Q-fog testing, one for "field" testing. The other ten would go to ten other "steel gurus", some with credentials, some self-proclaimed, for field testing. Can't say for sure, but would bet large sums of money that some of the results would surprising, some would be amusing, and some would be both.
- 8Cr13MoV (at the hardness used in the Tenacious)
- VG-10 (at the hardness used in the Caly 3)
- ZDP-189 (at the hardness used in the Stretch II)
- CPM S30V (at the hardness used in the Native)
- 420HC (at the hardness used in the Buck 110)
- AUS-8 (at the hardness used in Boker Plus Trance)
- N690Co (at the hardness used in the Volpe)
- ?????? (whatever steel Victorinox uses on their SAK's at its normal hardness)
This would be a neat idea. I think you will probably be right regarding the odd results but what the heck, at least we'll have fun.
The mind commands the body and it obeys. The mind orders itself and meets resistance.
It's there . I even went by your posted link and it's there :DMorales wrote:Thanks for your quick reply, Sal, the steel chart I meant was the one online under Edge-U-Cation. Maybe something on my computer isn't working as it should be, but I can't find 8Cr13MoV there. If it's there, I just don't see it.. :confused:
And thank you Piet, I found the composition later on Cliff's page. You're right, almost everything one needs to know is already in the steel's name itself.
"When Life feeds you Lemons , Pucker up and Quit Whining"
Mark
"Black" Delica 4 vg-10 (SG)
"S.S." Byrd Meadowlark 8Cr13MoV (SG)
"S.S." Grasshopper CR13 (FFG)
"Blue" Stretch 2 ZDP-189 (FFG)
Mark
"Black" Delica 4 vg-10 (SG)
"S.S." Byrd Meadowlark 8Cr13MoV (SG)
"S.S." Grasshopper CR13 (FFG)
"Blue" Stretch 2 ZDP-189 (FFG)
Hattie wrote:8C13CrMoV has similar properties to AUS-8. '
In any case I am satisfied with this steel - cuts very well and sharpens right up easily, something i often miss with 'super' steels such as the CPMs. What good if you can't sharpen it properly in the field ?
Hattie
Don't you just love these "back from the dead" threads!marknett wrote:It's there . I even went by your posted link and it's there :D
For what it's worth, My Crossbill G10 has been hammered and neglected but remains solid and easily sharpenable. The teeth haven't rolled or chipped.
One important factor in evaluating cheaper steels on cheaper knives is that they probably get more abuse and less care than there expensive cousins.
I know my cheaper knives get a harder life than my posh ones (generally speaking)- I don't remember ever cleaning, oiling/waxing a Byrd :o
I have a PE Resilience, and I love it. I used it hard on a home renovation project, cutting drywall and trimming plaster among other things. That definitely dulled the blade, so it doesn't shave my arm hairs anymore (like it did out of box) but it still cuts pretty much everything still.
I'm really curious about 9Cr18Mo. How does that compare to 8Cr13MoV in performance and price?
I'm really curious about 9Cr18Mo. How does that compare to 8Cr13MoV in performance and price?
Stainless A.T.R SE | CF Sage PE | Ti Sage 2 PE | CF Caly 3 PE | 2x Grey G-10 Caly 3.5 Super Blue PE | Black G-10 Persistence PE | Black G-10 Tenacious PE | Foliage Green G-10 Dragonfly PE | Hunter Green FRN Dragonfly2 Lightweight PE | Foliage Green FRN Ladybug PE | Burgundy Micarta Jester PE
I know this thread is old ,but the 8CR13Mov is still going strong in the byrds and a few others right now . I'd like to see what everyone thinks of it now compared to then
"When Life feeds you Lemons , Pucker up and Quit Whining"
Mark
"Black" Delica 4 vg-10 (SG)
"S.S." Byrd Meadowlark 8Cr13MoV (SG)
"S.S." Grasshopper CR13 (FFG)
"Blue" Stretch 2 ZDP-189 (FFG)
Mark
"Black" Delica 4 vg-10 (SG)
"S.S." Byrd Meadowlark 8Cr13MoV (SG)
"S.S." Grasshopper CR13 (FFG)
"Blue" Stretch 2 ZDP-189 (FFG)
- chuck_roxas45
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Can anybody tell me what edge stability is?
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Steel matrix be able to hold all the carbide and stuff without them falling out on very top of edge.chuck_roxas45 wrote:Can anybody tell me what edge stability is?
You know even though you said that as sarcasm, you are actually right on all three points, Vic's steel literally doesn't rust with their smooth finish unless you seriously neglect it, tough as ****, and has much better stability than the extremely high carbide steel like ZDP189.00max00 wrote:Duh, whatever steel Victorinox is putting in their knives is the best in term of edge stability, corrosion resistance and toughness... :rolleyes:
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I dunno - I have a few blades with Aus8 (but won't buy anymore) and a couple with the MOV steel. The main difference I find is that with the MOV I can get a good edge and it is not rusting like the AUS8 black spots thing. Holding the edge is a different story. I find that I have to retouch at least twice a week or more - but that could be down to me not using the 40/30 rule.
I think I prefer the MOV to the AUS8 actually. It does the job - any knife that I have that has MOV steel is an instant basher. No complaints on my end.
I think I prefer the MOV to the AUS8 actually. It does the job - any knife that I have that has MOV steel is an instant basher. No complaints on my end.
ok now I'm confused . Are you guys saying that ZDP-189 " A.k.a. super steel " can't hang with a victorinox ... Did I miss something here or what? :confused:
"When Life feeds you Lemons , Pucker up and Quit Whining"
Mark
"Black" Delica 4 vg-10 (SG)
"S.S." Byrd Meadowlark 8Cr13MoV (SG)
"S.S." Grasshopper CR13 (FFG)
"Blue" Stretch 2 ZDP-189 (FFG)
Mark
"Black" Delica 4 vg-10 (SG)
"S.S." Byrd Meadowlark 8Cr13MoV (SG)
"S.S." Grasshopper CR13 (FFG)
"Blue" Stretch 2 ZDP-189 (FFG)
- The Mentaculous
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They're just saying that in those specific properties that "lower end" steels are better. In terms of edge-holding, ZDP probably about 10x better. I don't really find "edge stability" to be all that important IMO--I can get and keep a very fine edge on ZDP 189, despite all the carbides.marknett wrote:ok now I'm confused . Are you guys saying that ZDP-189 " A.k.a. super steel " can't hang with a victorinox ... Did I miss something here or what? :confused:
What they're saying is that every steel has advantages and disadvantages. There's no perfect steel, period. Maybe there are perfect steels, but only for one specific application.
- chuck_roxas45
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jzmtl wrote:Steel matrix be able to hold all the carbide and stuff without them falling out on very top of edge.
I see, thanks. So since, the 420HC stuff can't hang with S30V, assuming optimum heat treat for both, then edge stability can't be all that important for edge holding.
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