What about a new DOUBLE BLADE Spyder

[Th232]

Will - I like your concept, especially for 30 minutes worth of work.

Flip one of the blades to open from the other side (front and back sides). When one blade is open, the handle that comes into contact with the fingers would not be touching the other blade. The palm-side would not touch all of the blade, and the area around the thumb (where most pressure is) wouldn't touch a blade.

Does that make sense?

So... you're suggesting having one spyderhole on each side of the knife?

[SeanH]

I too have been wishing for a double bladed :spyder: .

My main issue with it would be ergos.

I think this could be solved by borrowing from Chad's Lava. Look at your Lava and imagine if the blade was 4 inches long with a handle to match. Now, make that a double bladed version like Will's drawing.

With a small amount of tweeking you could move the Spyderhole lower into a deep choil so that when it is closed it doesn't stick up hardly at all and won't create a hot spot in your hand. With the deep choil you can flatten the thumb ramp and still have great control.

Imagine a double long bladed Lava in both PE and CE!

[flyguy]

So... you're suggesting having one spyderhole on each side of the knife?

Yes, that's one way to say it. It would be roughly where your pinkie finger is.

[Th232]

Make the holes more gunting like and make it a lockback.

Mmm... that'll require a fatter handle, but I think I can accommodate that. Not sure what you mean by making the holes more Gunting like, though. Would that be like adding the "horn" that the Gunting has?

[Th232]

Yes, that's one way to say it. It would be roughly where your pinkie finger is.

This is turning out to be harder than I expected.

So far, this is what I've got:


Pretty rough, but it shows that in order to access the hole, you've got to either have the hole high above the handle, or a big dip in the handle. Or a combination of either two. I think the big dip will be the most comfortable.

Edit: And the lockback version. Still very rough (I think I see a few parts sticking out), but has the main parts there. Also have the Gunting's "horn" on the blades, but I think the Gunting is patented, so I'm not sure Sal and co can do that.

[cobrajoe]

Will, you're a genious (Or was it flyguy's idea?) Either way, that first concept would make an amazing knife. I'm sure that a few ergronomic and lock issues would present themselves, but I'm sure a either a liner or a comp lock would simplify things (sorry lefties :o )).

It's just annother concept I'll have to draw :)

[Th232]

Will, you're a genious (Or was it flyguy's idea?) Either way, that first concept would make an amazing knife. I'm sure that a few ergronomic and lock issues would present themselves, but I'm sure a either a liner or a comp lock would simplify things (sorry lefties :o )).

It's just annother concept I'll have to draw :)

The very first post I made, or the recent one?

Using the spyderhole hump as part of the handle would be mine, having the blades on opposite sides was flyguy's.

Ergos definitely need to be worked out, and while balancing the blade size as well.

I think my personal favourite would be a short wharncliffe blade for precise work, mixed with a serrated drop point or a hawkbill for nearly everything else. Now, to make it...

[cobrajoe]

The very first post I made, or the recent one?

Using the spyderhole hump as part of the handle would be mine, having the blades on opposite sides was flyguy's.

Ergos definitely need to be worked out, and while balancing the blade size as well.

I think my personal favourite would be a short wharncliffe blade for precise work, mixed with a serrated drop point or a hawkbill for nearly everything else. Now, to make it...

I was refering to the first concept in the recent post.

I would also love to see a double blade with a SE hawkbill as one blade. I think it could be done with that concept I like, just give the handle a gentle curve, and the blades will need to become a little curved to match, and since they are on opposite sides, one will need to be hawkbill and the other will need to be a trailing point (or similar).

[Th232]

And a slight update of Flyguy's version. Most of the corrections were internal ones, how the comp lock would work and all that. Next step, figuring out the top of the handle. Might have to be the top of the blade.

[flyguy]

Will - well done. I do not have artistic talent of my own, so I borrowed from your picture... Hope you don't mind. I was curious to see what a waved blade or a curved blade might look like.

For fun, I used the blade from a Civilian. I figure that putting a second blade with a Civilian would remove the "not intended or designed for general utility or everyday use" tag. (In reality, it would be a Harpy-type blade)

I tried to show how each blade would look when closed as well. If you like either (wave or curved), feel free to make it look better than my version.

[cobrajoe]

Now we're having fun!

That last update looks great Will!

Here's a quick idea of what I was thinking of earlier...

BTW Th, what do you use to make those drawings? That looks really cool.

[Th232]

Some explanations first:
Because I'm lazy (read: it is a pain to duplicate every modification on both blades), I've just cloned them, hence why the blades have been identical. Likewise, there's no actual grind on them because I'm lazy.

Will - well done. I do not have artistic talent of my own, so I borrowed from your picture... Hope you don't mind. I was curious to see what a waved blade or a curved blade might look like.

For fun, I used the blade from a Civilian. I figure that putting a second blade with a Civilian would remove the "not intended or designed for general utility or everyday use" tag. (In reality, it would be a Harpy-type blade)

I tried to show how each blade would look when closed as well. If you like either (wave or curved), feel free to make it look better than my version. ]

By all means, please play around with the pictures!

And as for your version, well, it's PE only, and the wave is a bit rough, but:


Did a bit of work with the angles, the waved blade is 91 mm (3.6 inches), while the reverse-S blade is 87 mm (3.4 inches) long. A tad smaller than the original Civvie, but not by much.

Now we're having fun!

That last update looks great Will!

Here's a quick idea of what I was thinking of earlier...

BTW Th, what do you use to make those drawings? That looks really cool.

Thanks, I use 3D Studio Max for mine. I have nightmares about doing serrations though. :o What were yours done in?

Indeed we are having fun! Now to build your blade configuration...

Edit: And done!

Hawkbill is 87 mm, TP is 93 mm.

[Th232]

As long as it's 100% lefty friendly, has two PE blades, double bolsters, and nice natural material scales, count me in. Otherwise, I would not be interested.

My thoughts would be along the lines of a two bladed version of the C27 Horn. One larger pointed blade, and one smaller sheepsfoot one.

And a special version for The Deacon.

100% lefty friendly: Sorry, it's comp lock at the moment. Maybe if I straighten out the issues with the lockback.
Two PE blades: PE blades are the only ones I can do :o
Double bolsters: I tried, but I still need to work on the steel material, so it looks terrible at the moment
Natural material scales: Subjective, but I think the wood looks ok.

Larger pointed blade: Yes.
Smaller sheepsfoot blade: Yes.

[Jordan]

Man... sign me up for one of the deacon models

[cobrajoe]

Thanks, I use 3D Studio Max for mine. I have nightmares about doing serrations though. :o What were yours done in?

Indeed we are having fun! Now to build your blade configuration...

Edit: And done!

Hawkbill is 87 mm, TP is 93 mm.

I built mine in solidworks. I think it's a bit slower because you need to build parts as separate files and then make annother file to assemble them, but I use it a lot and I have gotten proficient with it.

Those are some fun looking concepts you have there. I really like the Deacon's version brought to life. Looks like it's out of my price range though.

I was also thinking, this would also be a suitable design for a marlin spike. It has been brought up a little while ago about how handy a knife with a marlin spike would be for sailing. Ooooh, I just got annother Idea :D

[gordonk]

You could talk me into it :D I'm currently on a slippie kick and I missed that Dyad moment so this has potential :D I just may have to go hunting :) There are a couple of retailers here that just might have some old stock kicking around.

Preferences:

- Lefty friendly would be a BIG plus.

- PE/SE combination would be nice.

- Blade shape - would prefer one of them to be fairly pointy :)

- 3 inch blades? With the slippies I own currently, the most convenient size for me has been in the large stockman size - overall closed length of around 4 inches.

- Lanyard hole/clip - I'm pretty neutral here. It would be dependent on the final size of the knife - if it has a clip, I would prefer a lanyard hole. For instance, the Delica 4, for me - I can carry it loose just as easily as clipped.

- Locking mechanism - this is an interesting area - I guess it would depend on the final intent or target useage - despite the fact that I have had slippies and Vics close on me and cut me, it's been because of me. AND, it hasn't happened all that often - perhaps because with a smaller blade, you are more careful??? Don't know. Lock of some sort would be ideal. Only double blade one I own with a lock is the Kershaw one and it uses a linerlock. To me, I feel they could have made the linerlock a little thicker - just a tad flimsy IMO. Don't get me wrong, it works fine - just feels flimsy in operation.

- Handle materials - up in the air for me. That Mini-Dyad photo with the bone handle I saw not too long ago really got my attention :D If it's going to be small enough to be carried loose, FRN/thin G-10 perhaps... it would have be light. If it's going to be larger and has a clip a little extra weight isn't going to impact that much.

- Steel - VG-10 would be fine.

- Costing - On a WAG (Wild A$$ed Guess), I'm guessing the first pass will be sprint run. My immediate perception was that it dropped me into a mid to high end slippie area, but then I'm just in that space right now :D AND up here, I'm naturally going to have to spend more. Depending on materials, design etc, I don't think I would get it if it was priced in the Caly 3 range (well, maybe..... :) ) On the other hand, if it retailed here for between $100 - $120 CDN, I probably wouldn't blink :)

My $0.02 CDN - gord

[Darkfin]

There is a Mini Dyad up on ebay. 5 days left in auction as of this post.

[JD Spydo]

Very Interesting exchange of ideas on a DOUBLE BLADED proposed Spyder. I hope that they are listening to us :) . The Concept of a double bladed Spyder just makes sense when you really think about it. Also for you "Serrated HATERS" maybe they could even offer up one with 2 plain edged blades.

I used to have a Kabar folding hunting knife years ago that had 2 plain edged blades and it was great. I had an extra blade to do gut work and removing scent/musk glands without tainting the blade that you do your primary meat cutting with. I used that knife for many years before I gave it to my Nephew.

But the concept of the Dyad is just too good to let go by the wayside or to let it die out completely. All your posts are very interesting guys. :)

[ruxton]

The one witht he waved PE and civilian reverse-S combination looks good. How about the kerambit designed by Dialex?

[Th232]

Those are some fun looking concepts you have there. I really like the Deacon's version brought to life. Looks like it's out of my price range though.

Yeah, with two damascus blades damascus bolsters (four of them!), the prive would skyrocket! :eek:

I was also thinking, this would also be a suitable design for a marlin spike. It has been brought up a little while ago about how handy a knife with a marlin spike would be for sailing. Ooooh, I just got annother Idea :D

And two for the sailors (my marlinspikes are terrible :o ).

Hawkbill + Marlinspike:


Sheepsfoot + Marlinspike: