In the past week I have become the proud owner of 3 Spydercos
Stainless Native-Delica Lightweight-LadyBug
Have a question about rust protection and the best way to dry the blades after washing them
First of all, what kind of metal polishing compound to buff the blade is recomended ?
Would airdrying be the best way to dry the
knife and blade?
Hook, Line, & Sinker
Knife Care
Hi Tiz, welcome aboard.
I don't know if it is common practice, but if I wash the knife in water I do dry it with a hair dryer, can't bear to think of water just sitting on the steel.
For general care I use Tuf-Glide for the inner workings and Tuf-Cloth for wiping over the outside surfaces including the blade. Both from www.sentrysolutions.com
I would recommend using one of these non-wet lubricants as soon as you get the knife. I lubricated my SS Deica as soon as I got it because it was a little stiff, but I didn't lube my Calypso Jnr as it was already free and easy. After about the same amount of time in the pocket the Calypso had noticably more lint/dust attached to the inner surfaces.
I have also heard good things about Miltek and Whitelightening.
I don't know if it is common practice, but if I wash the knife in water I do dry it with a hair dryer, can't bear to think of water just sitting on the steel.
For general care I use Tuf-Glide for the inner workings and Tuf-Cloth for wiping over the outside surfaces including the blade. Both from www.sentrysolutions.com
I would recommend using one of these non-wet lubricants as soon as you get the knife. I lubricated my SS Deica as soon as I got it because it was a little stiff, but I didn't lube my Calypso Jnr as it was already free and easy. After about the same amount of time in the pocket the Calypso had noticably more lint/dust attached to the inner surfaces.
I have also heard good things about Miltek and Whitelightening.
Welcome to the forum, Tiz.
I don't think it really matters what you use to dry the blade. Some kind of cloth that doesn't leave much lint would probably be preferable though. I personally use a car drying cloth. You can find them at any auto parts store; they're basically synthetic chamois.
If you wash out the innards of a folder, you might want to tightly grab onto the handle and give it a little wrist flick before drying. The idea is to use centrifugal force to propel water droplets out of the locking mechanism and pivot.
A polishing compound for buffing shouldn't be necessary for normal rust protection. If you do see some serious rust though, WD-40 and steel wool usually takes it off pretty quickly.
I don't think it really matters what you use to dry the blade. Some kind of cloth that doesn't leave much lint would probably be preferable though. I personally use a car drying cloth. You can find them at any auto parts store; they're basically synthetic chamois.
If you wash out the innards of a folder, you might want to tightly grab onto the handle and give it a little wrist flick before drying. The idea is to use centrifugal force to propel water droplets out of the locking mechanism and pivot.
A polishing compound for buffing shouldn't be necessary for normal rust protection. If you do see some serious rust though, WD-40 and steel wool usually takes it off pretty quickly.
Thanks Yog
After reading the testimonials and seeing the Seals use Sentry products, decided to order the Armorers Kit
For years have carried Buck Prince and Buck Knight.Had a crock stick to sharpen and Buck Knife Oil To lube. These are very good knives, but they seem to use very hard steel and it's hard to keep a good edge on them
Went to my knife shop a little over a week ago
looking to replace the Knight that had fallen
out of my pocket. Happened to see the Stainless Native in the case.Well, it was Love at first sight.The clip would keep it from falling out of my pocket and even though it is hefty could hardly tell it was in my pocket.Forgot about the Buck. Took it home and went imediatelly to Spyderco's web site.After looking at the product list, decided I also needed the Delica(What a well balanced knife). Went back to the knife shop the next day and picked one up. The LadyBug was so cute I couldn't leave her there(decided that would be a good way to familiarize myself with a serrated edge).
Now I carry the Delica in my left pocket and the LadyBug in my right(can't fit it on my key ring)
Birthday coming up in a few weeks and my girlfriend asked what I wanted.Told her LOVE would be plenty and an Almite Navigator
Sorry to be so long winded but, I'm PUMPED
Hook Line & Sinker
Edited by - Tiz on 9/2/2001 8:40:08 AM
After reading the testimonials and seeing the Seals use Sentry products, decided to order the Armorers Kit
For years have carried Buck Prince and Buck Knight.Had a crock stick to sharpen and Buck Knife Oil To lube. These are very good knives, but they seem to use very hard steel and it's hard to keep a good edge on them
Went to my knife shop a little over a week ago
looking to replace the Knight that had fallen
out of my pocket. Happened to see the Stainless Native in the case.Well, it was Love at first sight.The clip would keep it from falling out of my pocket and even though it is hefty could hardly tell it was in my pocket.Forgot about the Buck. Took it home and went imediatelly to Spyderco's web site.After looking at the product list, decided I also needed the Delica(What a well balanced knife). Went back to the knife shop the next day and picked one up. The LadyBug was so cute I couldn't leave her there(decided that would be a good way to familiarize myself with a serrated edge).
Now I carry the Delica in my left pocket and the LadyBug in my right(can't fit it on my key ring)
Birthday coming up in a few weeks and my girlfriend asked what I wanted.Told her LOVE would be plenty and an Almite Navigator
Sorry to be so long winded but, I'm PUMPED
Hook Line & Sinker
Edited by - Tiz on 9/2/2001 8:40:08 AM
I have been collecting knives for several years now. I like to wash them with mild soap, rinse and part dry with a fine cloth (I like the blow dryer idea to make sure it gets completely dry, thanks!). If oil be needed I will use 3 in 1, leave it for an hour or couple of hours to kick in, then just remove the excess oil with another cloth. I have not had any rust problems, and I am sure a good knife made of good steel will not rust if you are careful to remove any excess water. I hope this helps. <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>
Kahz
"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic." - Clarke's Third Law
Kahz
"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic." - Clarke's Third Law
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Michael Janich
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Dear Tiz:
The canned air that is sold for cleaning camera lenses and computer keyboards works great for cleaning the junk our of folder handles and bow drying them after washing with water. The plastic tube that attaches to the can allows very precise placement of the high-pressure air stream, making it possible to blow out the hard-to-reach areas of the knife lock.
Another thing I do is to flatten cotton swabs with pliers or a hammer so they fit into the handle slot. This works for both washing and drying the knife.
I use Teflon-based gun lubricants to lube my folders, again because they allow precise placement of the lubricant and close control of the amount.
Stay safe,
mike j
The canned air that is sold for cleaning camera lenses and computer keyboards works great for cleaning the junk our of folder handles and bow drying them after washing with water. The plastic tube that attaches to the can allows very precise placement of the high-pressure air stream, making it possible to blow out the hard-to-reach areas of the knife lock.
Another thing I do is to flatten cotton swabs with pliers or a hammer so they fit into the handle slot. This works for both washing and drying the knife.
I use Teflon-based gun lubricants to lube my folders, again because they allow precise placement of the lubricant and close control of the amount.
Stay safe,
mike j
Welcome to the forum, Tiz. Always glad to "see" a new face.
Sure sounds like you got off to a good start on the knives you picked. Someday, maybe you'll read one of my diatribes about slick handles, but this isn't the time.
I use TufGlide and TufCloth for protecting and lubing my knives. Since the medium in which the chemicals are contained evaporate quickly, leaving behind a bond between the chemicals and the steel, only periodic wiping/lubing should be necessary, unless you really get some grit inside.
Some people use WD-40 in the pressurized cans to do what Michael suggested with the canned air. I've never bought either, but assume that the air may be cheaper. Gonna try that myself.
Oh, started to say, then forgot -- when it comes to lubing a knife that pivots poorly, I do 3-5 applications, roughly 24 hours apart, one per day. In some instances, I application makes the action slicker than owl pellets. Others may take as many as five and still not be at a level where one can open with a wrist flick.
I do think you'll discover that in general, Spyderco knives have far less space between the tang and the inside of the handles than most other knives you will encounter.
After you get your Navigator, give some thought to the Wegner. It barely noses out my Native FRN as my favorite of the Spydies. Heck of a knife, very versatile, very useful, even tactical, should that prove necesary.
Enjoy you Spydies. Keep us informed as you make further purchases. We always like to bask in the joy of a Spydie knut when he/she gets a new knife.
Stare
Sure sounds like you got off to a good start on the knives you picked. Someday, maybe you'll read one of my diatribes about slick handles, but this isn't the time.
I use TufGlide and TufCloth for protecting and lubing my knives. Since the medium in which the chemicals are contained evaporate quickly, leaving behind a bond between the chemicals and the steel, only periodic wiping/lubing should be necessary, unless you really get some grit inside.
Some people use WD-40 in the pressurized cans to do what Michael suggested with the canned air. I've never bought either, but assume that the air may be cheaper. Gonna try that myself.
Oh, started to say, then forgot -- when it comes to lubing a knife that pivots poorly, I do 3-5 applications, roughly 24 hours apart, one per day. In some instances, I application makes the action slicker than owl pellets. Others may take as many as five and still not be at a level where one can open with a wrist flick.
I do think you'll discover that in general, Spyderco knives have far less space between the tang and the inside of the handles than most other knives you will encounter.
After you get your Navigator, give some thought to the Wegner. It barely noses out my Native FRN as my favorite of the Spydies. Heck of a knife, very versatile, very useful, even tactical, should that prove necesary.
Enjoy you Spydies. Keep us informed as you make further purchases. We always like to bask in the joy of a Spydie knut when he/she gets a new knife.
Stare
Maybe I've just been lucky but the only rust i have had has been very light surface rust that wipes off with a gun and real cloth. about the only care I give my Spydercos is sharpening,oiling the pivit points usally with Rem Oil,cleaning lint out of the handles and wiping them down with a Outers silicone gun and reel cloth. All of them look brand new.
J Smith
J Smith
Once every few days I wash my carry knife with hot water and soap, or to dissolve any sticky stuff deposited that I may have cut. This may be food stuff, or tree sap and so on. I then use canned air to blow out any accumulated water.
After each use cutting food, and every day in general I wipe the blade with a cotton patch soaked in isopropyl alcohol then one with my mineral/clove oil blend. I then wipe this off with my "polishing" cloth, leaving a thin film on the blade. The alcohol will get rid of water and "disinfect" the blade to some extent at the same time. Sure makes them shiny.
This process leaves them protected from rust and safe for food use.
Jeff/1911.
Edited by - Jeff/1911 on 9/3/2001 12:10:45 AM
After each use cutting food, and every day in general I wipe the blade with a cotton patch soaked in isopropyl alcohol then one with my mineral/clove oil blend. I then wipe this off with my "polishing" cloth, leaving a thin film on the blade. The alcohol will get rid of water and "disinfect" the blade to some extent at the same time. Sure makes them shiny.
This process leaves them protected from rust and safe for food use.
Jeff/1911.
Edited by - Jeff/1911 on 9/3/2001 12:10:45 AM