Reprofiling suggestions?

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talonturbo
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Reprofiling suggestions?

Postby talonturbo » Tue Dec 14, 2004 3:32 pm

Hi. I have a 204 and love it. But it just takes way too long to get other knives down to 40 or 30 for the first time on the greys.

I've looked into the Spydie diamond rods, but they aren't cheap.

Are they the way to go, or should I put that money towards a seperate system (Lansky?) strickly for reprofiling?

Thanks.

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severedthumbs
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Postby severedthumbs » Tue Dec 14, 2004 3:45 pm

I'd go with Edgepro. It seems to be very very good.

JD Spydo
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Norton diamond

Postby JD Spydo » Tue Dec 14, 2004 3:45 pm

For really nicked up, very hard use, and knives that need considerable relief ground to set up proper angle I use a Norton 325 Mesh Diamond Benchstone.
The stone is 3 inch X 11 inch. It removes stock at a very rapid rate. I have a power tool that is so good but it is pretty pricey. It is called the "Tormek".
You can see them at http://www.sharptoolsusa.com. It is a grinder which uses a wet grinding stone. It is really superb for big knives such as Gurkha Kukris, Bowies, Axes, hatchets, ect. But for premium field use and just getting the hard part done the Norton Diamond 325 is really nice. I would love to hear about others myself. :) :spyder: :)

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4 s ter
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Postby 4 s ter » Tue Dec 14, 2004 4:29 pm

Here's my "low-tech" solution. I had a Cabela's EZE-LAP diamond bench stone (and lots of others stones, etc.) then bought a Sharpmaker. I wanted to reprofile a couple of older knives so I could then use the Sharpmaker to finish them. I made a jig to hold the diamond bench stone at a 15 degree angle off vertical - the same as the 30 degree settings of the Sharpmaker rods. It works great for reprofiling.

David

p.s. this was before the diamond rods were available for the Sharpmaker :o
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reprofiling jig_0520.jpg
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David

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HoB
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Postby HoB » Tue Dec 14, 2004 4:32 pm

I lean a DMT 6'' stone against the rods. Works well, but really for reprofiling I prefer to do it free hand on an old fashioned coarse waterstone.

JD Spydo
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Cool Set-up

Postby JD Spydo » Wed Dec 15, 2004 6:13 am

4 s ter wrote:Here's my "low-tech" solution. I had a Cabela's EZE-LAP diamond bench stone (and lots of others stones, etc.) then bought a Sharpmaker. I wanted to reprofile a couple of older knives so I could then use the Sharpmaker to finish them. I made a jig to hold the diamond bench stone at a 15 degree angle off vertical - the same as the 30 degree settings of the Sharpmaker rods. It works great for reprofiling.

David

p.s. this was before the diamond rods were available for the Sharpmaker :o
Say "4 s ter" that is one cool set up indeed. I am now immediately going to draw up plans for making my own version of that slanted stone. That would really be the best for big bowies and so forth. I find really big stones on Ebay for just a song at times. Well it looks fairly safe to use as well. :) :spyder: :)

thom lambert
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Postby thom lambert » Wed Dec 15, 2004 6:42 am

Sandpaper!! If I need to do some fast reprofiling, or resetting a very bad edge, I wrap sandpaper around a dowel rod and use it like a crock stick. If you have a sharpmaker, you can wrap sandpaper around the triangle sticks, using the flats.

Thom

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philuk44
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Postby philuk44 » Wed Dec 15, 2004 12:30 pm

Yep, Thom beat me to it. "Wet & Dry" paper wrapped around the sharpmaker stones and held in place with a couple of clips makes reprofiling much easier and a pack of various grit paper can be bought for a lot less than the diamond rods.

Phil

talonturbo
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Postby talonturbo » Wed Dec 15, 2004 1:44 pm

Awesome suggestions. I think the sandpaper over the rods solution is the simple answer I've been looking for. I can't believe I hadn't thought of that.

Sword and Shield
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Postby Sword and Shield » Wed Dec 15, 2004 2:27 pm

I use something similar to 4ster. Just lean a coarse stone against the sticks, or tape a strip of coarse sandpaper to one.
I am a man. But I can change. If I have to. I guess...-- The Man's Prayer, Possum Lodge #11.

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klattman
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Postby klattman » Wed Dec 15, 2004 8:11 pm

philuk44 wrote:Yep, Thom beat me to it. "Wet & Dry" paper wrapped around the sharpmaker stones and held in place with a couple of clips makes reprofiling much easier and a pack of various grit paper can be bought for a lot less than the diamond rods.

Phil
Any Aluminum-Oxide paper will do. The Wet dry stuff (also alum-ox) is usually quite fine. You can get coarser al-ox for those tougher jobs. Great for reprofiling. You can either wrap it on the rods, or clamp it (binder-clips work well) to some cardboard or mouse pads and "strop" the blade on it to thin the edge. This is also the way to get a somewhat convexed edge (use a softer pad).

Then finish it up on the sharpmaker at a larger angle (15 or 20)

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spyderknut
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Postby spyderknut » Wed Dec 15, 2004 11:18 pm

4 s ter wrote:Here's my "low-tech" solution. I had a Cabela's EZE-LAP diamond bench stone (and lots of others stones, etc.) then bought a Sharpmaker. I wanted to reprofile a couple of older knives so I could then use the Sharpmaker to finish them. I made a jig to hold the diamond bench stone at a 15 degree angle off vertical - the same as the 30 degree settings of the Sharpmaker rods. It works great for reprofiling.

David

p.s. this was before the diamond rods were available for the Sharpmaker :o
Hey, rig up two long stones in V formation and you've got a giant Sharpmaker! :D


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