Sharpening serrations - does this happen to you?

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dialex
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Sharpening serrations - does this happen to you?

Postby dialex » Wed Jun 02, 2004 12:00 am

Hi folks.



I was wondering what am I doing wrong - I mean, I think I am doing something wrong, since after sharpening my SE Delica on the 204 (lots of sharpenings, it's true), the serrations tips are no longer pointy, but rather rounded (see the picture below).

The knife performs pretty well, (not as well as I've seen Sal Glesser doing with a sheet of paper, in that demo video, but he's the master, anyway). <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>

However, I was wondering if the same thing happens to you and how can you avoid this?

Thanks a lot and have a sharp day.



Oops, forgot to post the picture <img src="sad.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>



Edited by - dialex on 6/2/2004 3:50:27 PM
<a href="/forums/attachmentarchive/11585-7-serrations.jpg" target="_new">View Attachment...</a>

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J Smith
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Postby J Smith » Wed Jun 02, 2004 4:13 pm

Yep,that will happen if you use the directions of the 204.I sharpen SEs one seration at a time.I guess thats why I like PE better.

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HoB
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Postby HoB » Wed Jun 02, 2004 4:16 pm

No, I think that is bound to happen. Don't think that there is a way to avoid that with your Sharpmaker. Actually, Mr. Glesser talks about this happening if you use the grays on SE blades in the video. So I guess LOTS of sharpening on the whites will do the same. You could of course strop with a loaded leather shoe lace each individual scallop if you would want to avoid that happening.

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JBE
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Postby JBE » Wed Jun 02, 2004 5:26 pm

It will happen after a time.The edge of the serrations themselves are sharpened but the points become rounded.I use the corner of the whites at a 3:1 with very light pressure.Also, serrated edges usually don't require as frequent sharpening as a plain edge due to their design...at least in my experiences with them.

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Postby JiM » Wed Jun 02, 2004 5:51 pm

Try pushing the knife instead of pulling it toward you. I do that every other time & it keep the points fairly sharp.

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DAYWALKER
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Postby DAYWALKER » Wed Jun 02, 2004 8:36 pm

Aloha Alex!

Ahhhh, this cannot be avoided due to the nature of the technique required for the Sharpmaker.

UNLESS of course you can steady your hand for each serration and back off on the pressure when coming to the teeth...my old Endura's teeth look that way, I have learned acceptance.

Oh well, looks like you may have to make a new DIALICA and send me that old one! LOL!

God bless my friend,
Chad


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Postby death-bringah » Wed Jun 02, 2004 9:08 pm

I've seen those sharpening "rods" for doing serrations 1 scallop at a time...is it posible to use the corner of a sharpmaker trianglular stone in the same way? Has anyone ever tried this?

I recently aquired a sharpmaker (excitement!) but I haven't tried it on a serrated edge yet.

my thanx...death-bringah

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Postby samosaurus » Wed Jun 02, 2004 9:35 pm

Hi Alex.. Serrations are the trickiest.. Takes time and practice to the it right... Ever thought of the harder diamond triangles? They are C<img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>L when it comes to working with them SEs..

Sam

have knives will travel...

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Postby mac_heath » Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:51 pm

dailex,

I've had the same experience. I followed instructions with the original sharpmaker for my old-style Rescue. Now I'm more careful about sharpening serrations and run the right side down the triangle several more times than the left.

Also, my CE Native actually arrived with rounded serrations. As the others have said, I think you can avoid this, or at least mitigate it by sharpening the inside of the serrations and leaving the tips mostly alone. I imagine serrations to be like the point of a blade: you have to treat it very carefully so you don't round it off.

Another tool to try would be hobby files. I have a set bought @ Sears that are small metal files. They can cut through wood, plastic and metal and could bring a set of serrations to near-new form.

I know you're on the other side of the pond, but as a last resort, you could always send the knife back to spyderco for sharpening.

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Postby Ted » Thu Jun 03, 2004 2:02 am

I use <A TARGET=_BLANK HREF="http://www.lansky.com/products/crock/sp ... l">this</A> for sharpening my serrations. It has two edges, one that fits the small serrations, and one that fits the large ones.

<IMG SRC="http://www.lansky.com/products/product_images/LTRSP.jpg">

Ted

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J Smith
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Postby J Smith » Thu Jun 03, 2004 8:11 am

Ted I may have to gets one of those.I have been useing a round crock stick.It fit the large serrations perfectly but not the small.

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Postby Jimmy_Dean » Thu Jun 03, 2004 9:30 am

When someting like that happens, can you send the knife back at the factory under warranty and they will resharpen the whole thing for you? I know they can restore the tip of a PE so why not the tips of a SE?

-Dean

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Postby Jurphaas » Thu Jun 03, 2004 10:07 am

Alex - I've done thousants of sharpening demos and I use my old and trusted Ti Police for it. Yes, the teeth wear after many, many sharpenings. Remember that by sharpening steel you are infact removing material. So, this is a natural phenomeon. If you do it right and without much presure and when you let the corner of the stone run into the serrations, you'll be just fine and wear will be minimal. In my experience people do way too much when sharpening serrated edges. Just stick to the book, go slow with little or no pressure.

Sam - During the many sharpening demos I've conducted, I've become very reluctant to advise diamond stones to the public. These stone are only ment to be used on the most worn down and dammaged blades. Only twice in my 12 tyear sharpening with the 204, I've met blades that were almost beyond repair. Here is it where the diamond stones prove their value. The ordinary customer has no use for diamond stones in sharpening normal use pocket and household knives. believe me. I know.
Also these stones are very very expencive and you don't want to wear those down on sharpening jobs that can just as easy been done with the ceramic stones of the 204. Many folks just don't realize or believe how powerfull this system is.
Keep the stones clean at all times.
Cheerio!

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dialex
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Postby dialex » Thu Jun 03, 2004 1:43 pm

Thank you all for the replies. I tried also to sharpen each serration one by one (just like Jeff said) and indeed, the serrations are more pointy, but not that smooth. The edge of the serration is somehow jigged.
OTOH, I've seen both Lansky and Gatco sharpeners and I'm somehow confuzed: they say there are crocksticks specially tailored for Spyderco, Cold Steel aso. I understand that there is a portion on the rod fitted for small serrations and other for the larger ones, but different knives have different serrations. I guess there is a size difference between the serrations of a Ladybug and a Chinook. <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
And if, despite my theory, those crocksticks actually work, couldn't Spyderco make something similar to be fitted in the 204 base?

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Postby Jimd » Thu Jun 03, 2004 3:42 pm

I also have Croc-Sticks, and they work okay.

But usually, I strop my serrations with a leather shoelace, and that seems to keep a very, very sharp edge on them. I do it fairly often, so I rarely have to take a stone to them.

Thus far, stropping hasn't deformed the serrations at all, and polishes them nicely.

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Postby RLR » Fri Jun 04, 2004 12:56 pm

Use a 1/8" ceramic rod (Gatco makes them) in a Dremel at low speed. You don't know sharp serrations until you do that. Fits the small teeth and the big ones. Great job.

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Postby The General » Fri Jun 04, 2004 1:12 pm

Spyderco makes the ceramic files set and I use this to sharpen the tips.

Why not visit britishblades.com? http://www.britishblades.com/forums/ind ... errerid=41

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Postby dialex » Sun Jun 06, 2004 2:36 pm

Thank you all for the replies and advices. The fact is that I have no problem in restoring serrations (or even cutting new ones he, he) <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> with a set of files.
I was just wondering about the technique with the 204.

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Postby thombrogan » Tue Jun 08, 2004 11:39 am

Dialex,

After sc_rebel1957 sharpened my fully-serrated non-<img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0> folder with a rouged leather belt, I've been thinking that might be a great way to sharpen serrations without wearing away too much metal. I used buffing compound and Dremel to resharpen my SE Meerkat the last two times it needed sharpening and the results were great. Maybe that would help prevent tip loss?

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Postby thom lambert » Wed Jun 09, 2004 10:49 am

I have a G10 Merlin that came to me with a serious wire edge. I sharpened the serrations using sandpaper (400x then 14 mic) wrapped around the tapered handle of a paintbrush. The taper allows for the perfect circumference for a wide variety of serrations. For really small serrations, I use a pottery pin-tool...a good sized canvas needle would have about the same diameter.

Thom


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