Finally got around to taking this one apart this morning and there were a couple surprises that differ from my older February 2017 production Maxamet model.
First, I immediately noticed that the blade pivot and lock bar pivot bushing/pins both have grooves cut in the center now. I also have a Maxamet Native 5 and that knife doesn't have these grooves. I assume this is to hold lube, or if that wasn't the purpose they still do that. I'd say they also somewhat reduce the surface contact area and that cuts down on friction a small amount.
Next I noticed that instead of the typical D shaped end of the pivot bushing like we see on a lot of other models, this one has a hexagonal head that seats tightly into the FRN scale.
I immediately got curious about my Maxamet Native, because I didn't remember seeing this. I looked back on my pics and noticed I didn't take the pivot all the way off on that knife. I can't remember if the thread locker stopped me from being able to or if I just didn't bother.
Here's that old pic...
So I figured I'd take it apart again and check but...
That screw just spins in place, because the embedded female screw anchor thing has broke loose from the FRN. This is my fault I suppose because I did use blue thread locker on this knife, but strangely enough it came with red thread locker (I remember posting about that when I first got it) so I'm a bit surprised about this. I'm not sure if Spyderco can even fix this, the screw would need to be drilled out and then a new female anchor epoxied into the FRN or something. Oh well, this knife just became pinned construction for me. I would highly recommend against using thread locker on these body screws or the clip screws, you're much better off losing a screw than the screw being stuck.
Anyway. The action is pretty great on this knife. The opening force isn't quite as pleasant as a Rock Jumper, requiring a lot more force to open, but it's quite smooth and the blade drops super easily when you press the lock.
One thing I used to do a lot was polish the lock ramp and tang but this one was polished at the factory. This may not be a new or recent thing they're doing but I know I've needed to do this on other models (Seki models). The lock bar head itself is also quite smooth so it isn't chewing up the tang ramp. Again this is something I've seen on other Spyderco back locks. The Golden folks seriously make the best back lock in the catalog.
One thing I really like about these knives, that I think more people (particularly you anti-FRN G10 peeps) should appreciate it the way they mold these extra large "washers" into the scales. The end result here is a larger washer surface than you get with real washers and it goes a long way in making the pivot tighter. Considering these are linerless molded scales without washers, it really is impressive how accurate the molds come out and how good the resulting lock up is.
Another unusual thing I noticed are these weird grooves or cuts or whatever in the lock bar, and as much as they look like they might be a hidden screwup that you might not even notice, these marks are very similar to the marks on the Maxamet in the above pic so they certainly aren't blemishes. They probably have something to do with how the lock bar is cut out, but it's a weird little detail.
This knife has a pretty healthy amount of lock engagement too. This has been a concern for some of us when we see back locks where just the corner edge of the lock bar is engaging with the tang.
Something I think is often overlooked with back locks is how the lock bar also does effectively the same job as a back spacer and/or stop pin, and if you look at that pic you can see how much contact area there is between the blade tang and lock bar at this spot here...
And keep in mind that the blade stock thickness is 3.2mm and the lock bar itself is probably a teeny bit thicker, which added to that contact area I mentioned above plus the extra large molded washers all combine to really minimize side play in the pivot without the need to crank down the pivot screws.
And if anyone is wondering this knife was born in December of 2022. No idea what the C stands for.