CPM 15v Manix 2

[WilliamMunny]

this is what i needed to see. i don't use my folders harder than you do in this video, but want to know i can at least push it to some outdoor use if the need arises.


as i said earlier, corrosion resistance is typically my main concern, but i've used d2 and managed to not rust it and have other carbon steel fixed blades that i can deal with just fine. i also recently got my first cruwear and it's going well so far. after watching your k390 videos and seeing pics of the patina, i think i can handle that. especially in my favorite knife and with a stonewash (my favorite blade finish). i've been considering trying k390 anyway, so maybe this is the way to go after all.

so, how does the patina/corrosion compare between k390 and 15v? and how does this steel handle zip ties and the like? thanks!

With this special heat treatment it should be less reactive than if it was using the standard heat treatment from the data sheet, it will still be more reactive than cruwear.

So perhaps it may be less reactive than Spyderco 10V and Spyderco K390 but I don't have anything quantifiable for you.

As far as zip ties I think that's a good idea for a video and side-by-side testing with different Spyderco knife steels at the same edge geometry etc.

I have to ask… why are zip ties such a measurement standard for a knife to cut. I mean it’s a bit of plastic why would a knife take damage from it?

[Deadboxhero]

this is what i needed to see. i don't use my folders harder than you do in this video, but want to know i can at least push it to some outdoor use if the need arises.


as i said earlier, corrosion resistance is typically my main concern, but i've used d2 and managed to not rust it and have other carbon steel fixed blades that i can deal with just fine. i also recently got my first cruwear and it's going well so far. after watching your k390 videos and seeing pics of the patina, i think i can handle that. especially in my favorite knife and with a stonewash (my favorite blade finish). i've been considering trying k390 anyway, so maybe this is the way to go after all.

so, how does the patina/corrosion compare between k390 and 15v? and how does this steel handle zip ties and the like? thanks!

With this special heat treatment it should be less reactive than if it was using the standard heat treatment from the data sheet, it will still be more reactive than cruwear.

So perhaps it may be less reactive than Spyderco 10V and Spyderco K390 but I don't have anything quantifiable for you.

As far as zip ties I think that's a good idea for a video and side-by-side testing with different Spyderco knife steels at the same edge geometry etc.

I have to ask… why are zip ties such a measurement standard for a knife to cut. I mean it’s a bit of plastic why would a knife take damage from it?

If I gave you a strip of metal that was under 1 micron in cross section and ask you to break it with your hands would that be easy for you?

What is something comparable to one micron? Can you see 1 micron with your naked eyes?

What if we had the same steel and heat treatment but we made it one foot in cross section would you be able to break it with your hands?

How small is a knife edge?
Can you see the very tip of your knife edge with your naked eyes?


You can bend a paperclip fairly easy and break it no?

What if that paper clip was 1 ft in diameter and 5 ft in length would you be able to bend it even though it's the same soft metal?


Geometry geometry geometry.

Think deeper about things.

[Deadboxhero]

Well, I talked to the guys on the Facebook group.


Looks like there's some really cool Manix 2 scales.they rave about there.


One of the advantages is that they delete the liners
reducing the weight and removing the spiky jimping that some do not like. They also make the handle profile skinnier not to mention they come in a variety of colors.

I haven't tried these out but it looks like they're pretty proven with folks on the Facebook group.

If you haven't gotten a chance to check out the Spyderco Millie, PM2, Para 3 group I highly recommend it, there's a lot of cool pictures and video content from people that like to share their favorite Spydercos and discuss them.
It's a very friendly place and they would love to have you come visit and hang out.

[Ramonade]

They are VERY popular on this group indeed ! And I have to admit, they seem to be at least half as good as the hype surrounding them. AWT got known especially thanks to their alumnium Para 3 LW scales, but I'm glad to see they turn towards other Spyderco models. (I'm hoping for scales for the N5 LW ! I have a pair of Maxamet that'd be interested.)

BTW, the Millie, PM2, Para 3 group is really a good place to hang. There's a bess score battle going on, and it's pretty nice to see people chasing the ghost there.

[thomasomoore]

Thanks for the Millie club shoutout! We have created a very unique, non toxic, supportive, extremely active, and highly knowledgeable Facebook group. The Millie club is honestly unlike any other knife group and reason enough alone to be on Facebook. We welcome you all! It’s my internet home base. Spyderco Millie,PM2, Para 3 Club join us.

[ladybug93]

this is what i needed to see. i don't use my folders harder than you do in this video, but want to know i can at least push it to some outdoor use if the need arises.


as i said earlier, corrosion resistance is typically my main concern, but i've used d2 and managed to not rust it and have other carbon steel fixed blades that i can deal with just fine. i also recently got my first cruwear and it's going well so far. after watching your k390 videos and seeing pics of the patina, i think i can handle that. especially in my favorite knife and with a stonewash (my favorite blade finish). i've been considering trying k390 anyway, so maybe this is the way to go after all.

so, how does the patina/corrosion compare between k390 and 15v? and how does this steel handle zip ties and the like? thanks!

With this special heat treatment it should be less reactive than if it was using the standard heat treatment from the data sheet, it will still be more reactive than cruwear.

So perhaps it may be less reactive than Spyderco 10V and Spyderco K390 but I don't have anything quantifiable for you.

As far as zip ties I think that's a good idea for a video and side-by-side testing with different Spyderco knife steels at the same edge geometry etc.

thanks for the response. i would definitely be curious to see your results from cutting zip ties. realistically, it's the hardest thing i typically cut and i know they give people chipping issues sometimes. i did have some plastic straps give me rolling issues with se lc200n and that was extremely disappointing. i guess that's what you're getting at with the edge stability discussion. toughness is good, but it would be better to fall somewhere between rolling and chipping easily while holding the sharpness of the edge.

[northvanbamboo]

SCAMMER ALERT
Watch out for KNIVES MALL aka jefferytheknafster on Instagram, he claims he sells BBB's manix2 in CPM 15V out of Quebec, charging $160cad for the knife. He takes zelle and paypal payments sent to Nicole, nboltz2 at icloud.
Just talked directly to Shaun, he says he's a scammer, please watch out

[GarageBoy]

How is the Spyderco heat treated 15v compared to Maxamet in sharpening response? Does one deburr nicer than the other? Is one more aggressive at the same grit?

[aaronkb]

I had a pair of AWT scales on my favorite PM2 (k390) for a while, they’re a fantastic product…. I might put them back on it soon. Torn between those and some Fireside Co terotuf for the manix.

[WilliamMunny]

How is the Spyderco heat treated 15v compared to Maxamet in sharpening response? Does one deburr nicer than the other? Is one more aggressive at the same grit?

Shaun did say somewhere in this thread that his heat treat on 15v should make it easier to deburr. But I have no idea how it would compare to Maxamet.

[ladybug93]

Just a passing observation, but the images of the knife don’t really look like it’s satin to me. Or maybe it’s just different from the typical satin.

Good observation, it is a stonewash.

the spyderco website specifies satin for this one. is that a mistake, or will they be satin when the rest are released? not a big deal, obviously. i'm just curious.

[capt.carl]

The stonewash spyderco does is top notch. It’s like a mirror stonewash. Love it on the s30 manix and s45 para 3

[TkoK83Spy]

The stonewash spyderco does is top notch. It’s like a mirror stonewash. Love it on the s30 manix and s45 para 3

I agree. I love the look of my Maxamet PM2. It also hides the fine scratches that are easily visible on a satin blade. Looks great, a little different and hides scratches...I call that a WIN!

[WilliamMunny]

The stonewash spyderco does is top notch. It’s like a mirror stonewash. Love it on the s30 manix and s45 para 3

I agree. I love the look of my Maxamet PM2. It also hides the fine scratches that are easily visible on a satin blade. Looks great, a little different and hides scratches...I call that a WIN!

If I am not mistaken the stonewash helps against corrosion or is it the others way around?

[sal]

I believe a high polish is the best finish to prevent corrosion.

sal

[The Mastiff]

If I am not mistaken the stonewash helps against corrosion or is it the others way around?

I've been hearing this a lot lately. In my experience stone wash is one of the worst with mirror polish being the best at delaying the oxidation. Look at it under a microscope and it's easy to see why.

[cjk]

Well, I talked to the guys on the Facebook group.
...
If you haven't gotten a chance to check out the Spyderco Millie, PM2, Para 3 group I highly recommend it, there's a lot of cool pictures and video content from people that like to share their favorite Spydercos and discuss them.
It's a very friendly place and they would love to have you come visit and hang out.

Thanks for the Millie club shoutout! We have created a very unique, non toxic, supportive, extremely active, and highly knowledgeable Facebook group. The Millie club is honestly unlike any other knife group and reason enough alone to be on Facebook. We welcome you all! It’s my internet home base. Spyderco Millie,PM2, Para 3 Club join us.

I don't want to sound like a commercial.
The Spyderco Millie, PM2, Para 3 Facebook group is a really positive group.
This is honestly pretty surprising for a Facebook knife group. The moderators really do a great job.

--Christian

[Bolster]

I'm late to the discussion, but I would have expected 15V to appear in a "gents knife" package, perhaps a Chaparral or similar. I don't associate extreme edge holding and low toughness with a burly knife like the Manix. Am I wrong to think that? Perhaps you can enlighten me.

Just the same, kudos to Spyderco for bringing the latest supersteels to market, and for their willingness to collaborate, which appears to be written into Spyderco's DNA. And thanks also to BBB for facilitating a Spyderco dream knife.

[NCJohn62]

If I am not mistaken the stonewash helps against corrosion or is it the others way around?

I've been hearing this a lot lately. In my experience stone wash is one of the worst with mirror polish being the best at delaying the oxidation. Look at it under a microscope and it's easy to see why.

And bead blasting while providing a surface for oil or other anti-corrosive coatings to readily adhere to is when untreated is a recipe for disaster. Even highly corrosion resistance feels like 14c28n can fall victim to rust as a result of this surface treatment. Unfortunately many less knowledgeable knife users have discovered this in the Kershaw Leek..

[Senfkarte]

Can someone explain to me, why the Manix is seen as a strong, heavy use knife? Bolster isn't the first one to mention that. I, personally, never have seen the Manix as the heavy knife, that fights you through the jungle. I mean, the blade is kind a short, if you want to use it as a chopper or as a knife to baton and the sharp part is even shorter, due to the choil. Sure, the blade is not the thinnest out there, but also far away from the thickest. It shure is sturdy and the lock is solid, but these points also apply to a lot of other Spydercos. What is so special about the Manix? Because, I personally would not call most folders, made for heavy use. Or am I missinterpreting the heavy use here?

I don't want to be mean to anyone, and I hope this does not sound provoking, I just want to know, how the Manix is so differnet to most other knives made by Spyderco, or even other brands.