Stainless steels and peak sharpness

[elena86]

When it comes to keeping the peak sharpness for a longer time, tool steels come on top and we know why. Let’s talk a few stainless steels which keep their peak sharpness longer than the “average” ones. For me, SRS15 is such a steel and second close is AEB-L. I would like to see more spydies in AEB-L. Sal even said he would consider the SRS15 for a sprint in the near future but…

[sal]

Hi Marius,

SRS15 wasn't available. I believe we ended up with a batch of SRS13. Performance should be the same.

Most don't realize that there is much time from; decision, to order, to manufacturer, to rolling and delivery. Then we cut Mules and put them though a manufacturing process. Then we have to put them into the sales queue. Etc. We try to listen to our customers with regards to requested blade steels, plus what we'd like to try but it is a long gestation before you get to ""cut" with it.

sal

[Doc Dan]

What about 14C28N instead of AEB-L? It is more stainless and still as tough. What do you think?

[elena86]

What about 14C28N instead of AEB-L? It is more stainless and still as tough. What do you think?

Sandvik made their steels after the original american made AEB-L. My first Sandvik was a Kershaw Leek in 13C26 and I rave about that blade till today. They had some problems with corossion and that’s how 14C28N came into existence. Correctly heat treated 12C28N is awesome. I have a few Kershaws in 14C28N but they run them bellow 60HRC, AFAIK. Knife people overlook low carbon steels(bellow 0.8%C) but these steels are excellent for mundane edc. They sharpen like a dream and can be brought to scary level of sharpness. Let’s not forget that scalpels are made of 13C26.

[Doc Dan]

What about 14C28N instead of AEB-L? It is more stainless and still as tough. What do you think?

Sandvik made their steels after the original american made AEB-L. My first Sandvik was a Kershaw Leek in 13C26 and I rave about that blade till today. They had some problems with corossion and that’s how 14C28N came into existence. Correctly heat treated 12C28N is awesome. I have a few Kershaws in 14C28N but they run them bellow 60HRC, AFAIK. Knife people overlook low carbon steels(bellow 0.8%C) but these steels are excellent for mundane edc. They sharpen like a dream and can be brought to scary level of sharpness. Let’s not forget that scalpels are made of 13C26.

I've got knives in 14C28N, 13C26, AEB-L, and 12C28 and they are all good. I really like the 14C because of the way it holds a wicked sharp edge for a good while and is easy to resharpen. I have two hunting knives in that steel and they both performed well enough. I don't know why we don't see this steel from other makers anymore except Kershaw. At one time custom makers were playing around with it, but it is now out of vogue. I did a post on this steel a while back, sort of as a provocateur to see if I could get any interest up. I already knew the answer, I just wanted to get people talking about the steel. It didn't work. Well, it is not the latest and greatest super steel, so I should not be surprised, but it is as tough or tougher than 52100 and that should count for something. I also like the way it sharpens better than 52100 and it is stainless, to boot. I do like the AEB-L, I just think the 14C28N might kick that steel up a notch.

[Gtscotty]

My SRS13 mule has been fairly underwhelming in terms to edge holding, definitely not a stainless I'd say holds peak sharpness longer than average. I only have had a few 14C28 knives, and they were fine, but not stand out for fine edge holding.

I would say, for me 20Cv/M390 holds a screaming edge better than average. Once you get a good edge on S110V, it holds peak sharpness probably the best of anything I have short of Z-Max or Maxamet. Both of these are assuming normal cutting tasks, if you are abusing or torquing the edge, they'll chip of course, but this thread seems to be asking about peak edge holding, not toughness.

[p_atrick]

I did a post on this steel a while back, sort of as a provocateur to see if I could get any interest up. I already knew the answer, I just wanted to get people talking about the steel. It didn't work.

If I had to guess, I would say the steel has been around in a line if knives that can be described as "lesser". But then you have the AEB-L Urban. There was a lot of chatter about that steel, which you say is not as good as 14C28N. I'd be interested in what Spyderco could do with a proper heat treat on 14C28N. We are probably passing judgement on that steel for a poor representation of its full potential. It may not still win any converts though.

[vivi]

The sandvik steels I've tried being discussed in this thread showed excellent sharpening characteristics and got very sharp very easily. I'm a fan. I've tried them with Bark River, Kershaw and a few others.

Bear in mind Kershaw did / does bead blast a lot of their knives, which has a significant impact on corrosion resistance. These steels aren't bad in this area by any means, but the bead blast finish makes them very susceptible to rust.

[Josh Crutchley]

I would love to see Spyderco use 14c28n. When talking about about it in the Byrd forum Sal had this to say;

We're using 12C27 in our Grasshopper Slip-joint that's made in China.

I don't have much experience with Sandvik steels. Each time I asked for samples, I never go them. Couldn't understand why. So we had a Zoom meeting with them a couple of months ago and got things sorted. Turned out that they didn't have the thickness I wanted as samples because most of their steel was rolled thinner for kitchen knives. so we've got some 19C on order that they are rolling for us. So we'll learn.

We think pretty highly of CTS-BD1N. We had a hand in it's creation. Larrin's testing is good and I have a lot of respect for him. But we like to do our own testing. If Sandivk steel will punch above it's weight, we'll find out. We don't see it as a competition. All good, just different. If we like it, we'll make it and see if you like it? We're not trying to push any particular steel. We're pushing the "cut", however we do it.

The byrd line and the value folders have their own issues. It was only recently that one/some of the makers invested in a modern heat treating equipment and this has permitted more opportunity for different steels. Like our coin says, "Never give up - Never back down - Never back up".

sal

[z1r]

I've been very happy with CTS® XHP. I find it easy to sharpen and capable of being very sharp. I haven't used my 20CV blades enough to have to try to sharpen them yet.

Another stainless that I like for both the edge and ease of sharpening is Spy27. My N5 is so easy to get an edge on.

[Giygas]

Surprised to not see s90v mentioned yet.

That's the stainless that I've found to hold it's peak/front-end sharpness to a degree most comparable to a non-stainless tool steel.

[Doc Dan]

It is a fantastic steel, but it lacks the toughness of 13C26/AEB-L and 14C28N, I believe. Also, these steels are easier to sharpen.

I'd like to see what Spyderco could do with 14C28N's heat treat.

[z1r]

It is a fantastic steel, but it lacks the toughness of 13C26/AEB-L and 14C28N, I believe. Also, these steels are easier to sharpen.

I'd like to see what Spyderco could do with 14C28N's heat treat.

I think many of use would like to see this. Then again, MagnaCut will be nice as well.

[TkoK83Spy]

Surprised to not see s90v mentioned yet.

That's the stainless that I've found to hold it's peak/front-end sharpness to a degree most comparable to a non-stainless tool steel.

I agree. I'm kind of regretting passing on that recent Shaman. I only have one example of S90V and have loved it so far. Bad timing with our recent vacation!

[Netherend]

Surprised to not see s90v mentioned yet.

That's the stainless that I've found to hold it's peak/front-end sharpness to a degree most comparable to a non-stainless tool steel.

I agree. I'm kind of regretting passing on that recent Shaman. I only have one example of S90V and have loved it so far. Bad timing with our recent vacation!

S90v took time for me to “get it”. When I learned how to sharpen it, it became my favorite non salt steel. It holds an edge for a very long time through a ton of use. Its not just a working edge either. My s90v pm2 holds a shaving sharp edge for months of use on cardboard, Velcro and gardening tasks. It takes some patience to sharpen compared to 14c28n(which I have on my kershaws), s30v(spyderco and benchmade) or the salt stees((h1 and lc200n). S90v taught me how to sharpen my knives. When I finally got the edge I wanted on my s90v knife I found that my sharpening skills were good enough to handle every other stainless steel I owned with ease.

I found 20cv to be great as well but not quite on the same level as s90v. 20cv holds and edge better than s30v but I did manage to put a tiny chip in it once.

S90v for the win

[DrHE]

The 20CV Zoomer takes an amazing edge and the hamaguri grind is quite easy to maintain. Slices like a champ even on harder vegetables as well as potatoes.

I use a full set of AEB-L kitchen knives (LTWK). They do easily take and keep an very keen edge. It’s a a great steel for daily use!

[S-3 ranch]

The 20CV Zoomer takes an amazing edge and the hamaguri grind is quite easy to maintain. Slices like a champ even on harder vegetables as well as potatoes.

I use a full set of AEB-L kitchen knives (LTWK). They do easily take and keep an very keen edge. It’s a a great steel for daily use!

My 20cv zome holds a amazing edge, and keeps it , only a little stropping on a diamond laden leather and it’s back to scary sharp

My old G2 steel delica serrated held a savage working edge for 10-12 years before I sent it to spyderco for a sharping