I've noticed that Spyderco doesn't grind that thin BTE. I love that they use high wear resistance steels but they're the same geometry as lower wear steels. Why not run the 9v+ steels thinner? It would help immensely with maintenance as the bevel is much smaller.
Here's a S110V Manix 2 next to a 14c28n P671 Ruike. Since the Manix has been reprofiled its a little fat @ .025" BTE. The Ruike has been reground to ~.009-10" BTE.
The Manix is a bear to sharpen even with ocb diamond stones because of the wide bevel. My Maxamet PM2 was the same way. I could get them sharp but it would take forever.
Yojimbo 2 is very thin behind the edge. I must say i own allot of of Manixes but the s110v variants ar a bit of an odd duck. They just do not get the same lvl of sharpness but they do keep it for a very long time.
Yojimbo 2 is very thin behind the edge. I must say i own allot of of Manixes but the s110v variants ar a bit of an odd duck. They just do not get the same lvl of sharpness but they do keep it for a very long time.
It's thin for a Spyderco, but I wouldn't call it thin overall.
I've been practicing regrinds but don't want to mess up any of my Spydercos great looks. Maybe one day I'll come close their grind quality. Until then I'll keep dreaming of sub .010"BTE Maxamet and S110V.
FFG is trendy but often limits thinness behind the edge. There are a lot of Spyderco’s with thin factory geometry. Just some that aren’t. Even the thin ones though have to tolerate a wide user base.
Okay that other knife is really really thin behind the edge. But may i ask why do you want knives that thin? I find spydies to be one of the best cutting tools in the world in the very wide area of tasks one might use a knife for so what do you do regurly that you need that thin kind of an edge? A knife that is so thin is definitly also going to have its draw backs i asume?
I love thin ground knives. They cut better. They aren't for everyone though.
This little fixed blade knife is MagnaCut at 64-65Rc and it measures from .006" at the ricasso to .009" at the tip. Compared to a UKPK with the factory grind at about .025" behind the edge.
For me, around .013-.015" is what I'd consider to be the best balance between thin grind and all around durability. .010" or thinner and more care is needed in use.
Because desolate places allow us to breathe. And most people don't even know they're out of breath.
Okay that other knife is really really thin behind the edge. But may i ask why do you want knives that thin? I find spydies to be one of the best cutting tools in the world in the very wide area of tasks one might use a knife for so what do you do regurly that you need that thin kind of an edge? A knife that is so thin is definitly also going to have its draw backs i asume?
I didn't have a target thickness when I was regrinding. I just wanted to try something thinner than you can typically buy.
I preached the gospel of thinness bte for years. A good blade is most and foremost meant to cut clean an apple like a laser not to split it like a chisel. Many claim that warranty is the main reason Spyderco grinds them so thick bte(not so the Taichung blades). Nonsense. We are in 21 century ! My Civivi, We and Bestech( to mention just a few) blades are so thin bte and it's a joy to use them. I bet they are not so concerned about how the average Joe abuses his blade and than has the guts to invoke the warranty. I am not talking Civivi thinness bte but at least something between 0.015 and 0.020. It’s a mistery to me why a Delica blade( 2.5 mm blade stock) is ground at 0.025-0.028 bte; thicker than a Millie( 3.8 mm blade stock) at 0.023-0.025 bte. Please enlight me … anyone ?!
Marius
" A mind all logic is like a knife all blade. It makes the hand bleed that uses it "
( Rabindranath Tagore ) Proud member of the old school spyderedge nation
I preached the gospel of thinness bte for years. A good blade is most and foremost meant to cut clean an apple like a laser not to split it like a chisel. Many claim that warranty is the main reason Spyderco grinds them so thick bte(not so the Taichung blades). Nonsense. We are in 21 century ! My Civivi, We and Bestech( to mention just a few) blades are so thin bte and it's a joy to use them. I bet they are not so concerned about how the average Joe abuses his blade and than has the guts to invoke the warranty. I am not talking Civivi thinness bte but at least something between 0.015 and 0.020. It’s a mistery to me why a Delica blade( 2.5 mm blade stock) is ground at 0.025-0.028 bte; thicker than a Millie( 3.8 mm blade stock) at 0.023-0.025 bte. Please enlight me … anyone ?!
Wow didn't know they came that thick! Most of the Spydercos I own came in around .020 when new. That means once they're reprofiled and sharpened a few times it's closer to .025-.030"BTE.
The only knife I have that came thin would be the Manly Wasp in S90V. Not sure what it was when new but after multiple sharpenings it's around .014"BTE.
It seems like a waste of good steel to use the same geometry as lesser steels. Would be nice if they run a few sprints thinner.
I preached the gospel of thinness bte for years. A good blade is most and foremost meant to cut clean an apple like a laser not to split it like a chisel. Many claim that warranty is the main reason Spyderco grinds them so thick bte(not so the Taichung blades). Nonsense. We are in 21 century ! My Civivi, We and Bestech( to mention just a few) blades are so thin bte and it's a joy to use them. I bet they are not so concerned about how the average Joe abuses his blade and than has the guts to invoke the warranty. I am not talking Civivi thinness bte but at least something between 0.015 and 0.020. It’s a mistery to me why a Delica blade( 2.5 mm blade stock) is ground at 0.025-0.028 bte; thicker than a Millie( 3.8 mm blade stock) at 0.023-0.025 bte. Please enlight me … anyone ?!
We are on the tail end of the tactical do anything without breaking pry a door off the hinges folder trend, and Spyderco were definitely a part of that trend and are maybe late to leave it behind.
We are on the tail end of the tactical do anything without breaking pry a door off the hinges folder trend, and Spyderco were definitely a part of that trend and are maybe late to leave it behind.
I get if your in the military and your life may depend on the knife not failing. But the built like a tank thing is just not for me.
I could care less trying to make my knife look unused and not enjoyed. I spend a few minutes every session thinning before moving to the apex. I bought a tool not a Picasso. I have never tried using veneevs to do that. Usually use my pride 400 stone or my 400 super vit followed by my 800 king neo for that. After about 13 sessions I've determined the heat treat can withstand a full regrind at sub 10 thou behind the edge.
"Nothing is built on stone; all is built on sand, but we must build as if the sand were stone."
I could care less trying to make my knife look unused and not enjoyed. I spend a few minutes every session thinning before moving to the apex. I bought a tool not a Picasso. I have never tried using veneevs to do that. Usually use my pride 400 stone or my 400 super vit followed by my 800 king neo for that. After about 13 sessions I've determined the heat treat can withstand a full regrind at sub 10 thou behind the edge.
How much steel are you removing when you do that? I first learned by watching the Murray Carter videos, so I do the same thing with regards to thinning the blade. I use a 4000 King however. I'm concerned I might take too much steel off. Of course, I don't sharpen everyday, so maybe my fears are unfounded.
The steel mills have to play along as well to produce thinner stock otherwise there is a lot of waste in belts and steel to thin out the stock. Probably a bit higher % in wastage due to warping as well.
"...it costs nothing to be polite." - Winston Churchill
“Maybe the cheese in the mousetrap is an artificially created cheaper price?” -Sal
I could care less trying to make my knife look unused and not enjoyed. I spend a few minutes every session thinning before moving to the apex. I bought a tool not a Picasso. I have never tried using veneevs to do that. Usually use my pride 400 stone or my 400 super vit followed by my 800 king neo for that. After about 13 sessions I've determined the heat treat can withstand a full regrind at sub 10 thou behind the edge.
How much steel are you removing when you do that? I first learned by watching the Murray Carter videos, so I do the same thing with regards to thinning the blade. I use a 4000 King however. I'm concerned I might take too much steel off. Of course, I don't sharpen everyday, so maybe my fears are unfounded.
I generally dont measure the BTE thickness, i measure where i find a certain thickness. Somewhere between 23 to 30 thou usually 25. Anyone givkng BTE specific numbers should take the average of multiple section measurements anyways. Im not doing regrinds for a business standpoint so i dont focus on the specific numbers. My guess would be about 2 thou is removed on average from heel to tip when i normally do it. It depends on how much time i put into it tho. When done correctly the steel is being removed above the apex so its not shortening the life span of the knife. The reduced drag in cutting is noticeable, but i do it gradually. Im not sure how the specific heat treat on my knife will hold up. I only evaluate my knives and the performance i witness thru my use and my use only.
"Nothing is built on stone; all is built on sand, but we must build as if the sand were stone."
A knife that is so thin is definitly also going to have its draw backs i asume?
