Delica Lego Redux

[Mr Blonde]

When the D4 first came out, I couldn’t wait long to take it apart. This is when I published the ‘Delica Lego’ thread. I used to assemble the D4 like a sandwich, just adding parts in a layer. Along the way, however, I and several fellow forumites discovered an important drawback with this method 'vis a vis' the D4 design. The FRN spacer unit uses two small ‘nipples’ to set the part in the liners. When you assemble the D4 ‘sandwich style’, there will be a moment where the pressure of the lock and spring rest on a single FRN nipple. Subsequently, several people have discovered that the FRN ‘nipple’ gets squashed which led to a few damaged knives. I now have found a new and reliable way to play ‘Lego with my Delica 4s’.

In my original thread, I got the suggestion to consider a different assembly method in which the handle and lock are completely assembled before the blade is added. I tried it once and it wasn’t very easy, so I let it rest for a while. The past few weeks I’ve been itching to construct a Foliage Green Delica 4 with a PE ZDP blade. After practicing the new assembly method with a much older and abused D4, I think I got it down.

The objective
The objective was to swap the blade of a BRG ZDP PE D4 in a FG D4 (I love these abbreviations! ).

[Mr Blonde]

All you need are: Torx drivers sizes T6 and T8, a pair of tweezers, a clean working surface, a small cup or bin to store parts in so they won’t ‘walk away’, a good flashlight (because small parts will still ‘walk away’ at the worst possible times), oil and a rag to clean and lube parts. I also like to keep a popsicle stick handy. This helps me to sometimes align parts on the inside of the handle, or to punch out pins that sometimes get stuck in the handle or liner. The wooden stick doesn’t leave any scratches and it’s too fragile to actually break parts. Anyway, the D4 (in all its FRN variations) comes apart really easy. There is no loctite on any screws.

[Mr Blonde]

When I took apart the BRG ZDP D4, I noticed that the locking bar had a ‘starting hole’ melted with the hole for the pin. I suspect that the steel for this locking bar is also ZDP or of similar hardness. I haven’t seen this on the VG-10 blades. It seems that this locking bar needed a different way of making a hole for the pin. Sal has explained in several meets how important the hardness is of parts that ‘connect’ in a folder. If the locking bar would be of a softer steel than the blade, the lock would wear out soon. Just to be sure, I decided to swap not only the ZDP blade, but also its locking bar and spring.

[Mr Blonde]

Assemble the entire handle without the spring, locking bar, blade and its washers. Carefully align the FRN spacer unit in the liners. Make sure those tiny FRN nipples are in place and really tighten those screws. Now the pressure from the spring and lock will be fully supported by the entire frame.

[Mr Blonde]

Carefully insert the spring in its carrier inside the FRN spacer unit. Make sure you put the spring in the right way, it should fall free into place. I’d like to tap it slightly with a popsicle stick to make sure it’s all the way inside the FRN spacer unit.

[Mr Blonde]

Now it’s time to insert the locking bar. It gets a bit tricky because you have to align the holes of the handle and locking bar while the spring builds up tension, and you have to insert the pin to keep everything in place. If this is your first assembly, be prepared for a few minutes of puzzling to get it right. Your hands have to align the part, cope with the spring and shove in the pin at the same time. It can be done, just be a little patient.

[Mr Blonde]

When the locking bar is in place, screw in the pin holding the locking bar down. Don’t tighten this screw too much, just a few turns to keep everything in place. The FRN handles need some room to flex outward a bit, for later steps in the assembly.

[Mr Blonde]

Now it’s time to work on the pivot. Take the female part of the pivot pin and shove it slightly through one part of the handle. Take the tweezers to put one washer over the pin and into place. Take a few seconds to inspect the inside of the handle to see if any part -especially the spacer unit- seems out of alignment or under pressure.

[Mr Blonde]

Now it gets tough again; inserting the blade (without the second washer). Again this is slightly acrobatic feat for your fingers. You are manipulating the lock, a razor sharp blade and a pin at the same time. Be careful not to cut yourself. The parts can take a little pressure. Fixate the blade by shoving the pivot pin in place. Don’t push the female part of the pivot all the way through the blade and opposite handle. There is still a second washer to put into place.

[Mr Blonde]

Take the tweezers and the second washer to slide it over the pin, between the blade and handle slab. For this step, you need to flex the handle slab a little so make sure you haven’t tightened the pin in the locking bar too much. You wouldn’t want to put too much pressure on the FRN or the steel liner. Loosening the pin holding the locking bar a bit, prevents this. I find this step actually a bit easier then step 6. Once the washer is in place, shove the female part of the pivot pin all the way in.

[Mr Blonde]

Screw down the pivot pin and the pin holding the locking bar. Carefully inspect the now almost finished folder. Is everything in place, does it look good? Now it’s time to adjust the action to your liking.

[Mr Blonde]

This procedure is a bit tougher than the previous ‘sandwich method’ of assembly. However, it is much safer for the somewhat fragile FRN part. And, as with many things in life, after a few tries it becomes much easier. I must say I really enjoy my FG PE ZDP PE folder. And I always feel very confident with the knives I know how to take apart and put back together again. If I ever get my own shed with a workbench, I’m sure I’ll get some extra materials and tools to really customize my Spydies and perhaps make some concealex sheaths too. For now, my lovely wife draws the line at my little ‘Lego playtime’ at the dinner table in our living room.

Wouter

[dmrllgr]

I would tape the blade during assembly. Great pictures and good explanations.

[buferoe]

ha die Wouter,

Nice explanation and super pictures, I will also try to do it this way.
I think you did a very good job fiddeling out this procedure.
It's better for the backspacer for sure.

nice job......



kind regards,

Werner

[Manix Guy 2]

Nice job Mr. Blonde . I have already seen this done with a friend of mine and your steps are on the money . I have been thinking over the project with some Enduras . Regards MG2

[spydutch]

Great Wouter :cool: :cool:

I've had my fair time of fumbling with the D4 :eek: and by the look of your pics and description this might just work better.

I will sure try it your way the next time I have enough peace of mind to dis and reassemble a D4 of mine.

Thanx very much :cool: :D

[Mr Blonde]

I would tape the blade during assembly. Great pictures and good explanations.

Very wise advice! I've been tinkering with knives for so many years now, that I rarely cut myself anymore, especially during assembly and sharpening. That doesn't mean it won't happen again.

Wouter

[araneae]

Very nice tutorial & great pictures.

[Brad S.]

Nicely done tutorial.

[Fred Sanford]

Wouter,

Awesome illustration bro. I'm gonna have to try that myself with one.

I will probably wrap the blade with some cardboard and tape, as suggested, so I don't slice off a finger. :D