I removed the tab as well, at least for one of mine. Here's a not-quite-finished pic. I used a carbide end mill.
Deserves an award for creative and innovative hafting of a mule. Very cool. Thumb-up. Did you know you can fill a hole in the mule handle by inserting a closely sized rod of aluminum, cutting it close to flush, then smashing it in a press until it expands and is tight...then milling or sanding flush? I have repaired mistakes (holes drilled in the wrong place!) in my aluminum projects this way; should work for mule holes as well. Would require that the hole is still over 50% intact (as is burly's). Less and the plug will fall out.
I really like mules where the handle profile itself is modified. JSL3's top mule, similar: a bold reimagining of the mule profile. Now my other thumb is up.
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
I removed the tab as well, at least for one of mine. Here's a not-quite-finished pic. I used a carbide end mill.
Did you know you can fill a hole in the mule handle by inserting a closely sized rod of aluminum, cutting it close to flush, then smashing it in a press until it expands and is tight...then milling or sanding flush?
I plan on filling it with a piece of mosaic pin to give it a little bling and a little pinch point texture. :)
Just bobbed mine today. I actually prefer guards but this knife is just a bit too small for me and my hand smashed into that nub so hard during use that it was quite uncomfortable. I first started out by beveling the edges to see if that would help and it did, but I had to see if it could still be better and it is. There's still plenty of guard and my hand doesn't slide forward, it feels better and I think looks a whole lot better.
Mini bench grinder to hog off the bulk of it, Dremel to shape it with a mix of sandpaper barrels and a carbide grinding bit. I really wanted to avoid having a "dip" that curved upwards behind the heel of the edge and I was just able to pull it off while removing all traces of the original tab. I really didn't like how it originally had such a hard sharp angle to the guard behind the beginning of the edge, I like a guard that blends right into the edge so materials naturally slide forward into the edge. This also makes it a lot easier to sharpen all the way to the plunge line.
I decided to take it all the way down flush with the scales, or at least to the point of where the rest of the blade extends beyond the scales. This helps to distribute grip force over a more broad surface and won't create any hot spots in that area now.
It still feels plenty secure in my grip and far more comfortable at my index finger now. It also still snaps into the sheath tightly, though there is a teeeeny bit of wiggle now but it's more than tolerable.
I think my next mod is going to be a 45 degree bevel around the entire blade tang so it doesn't have that sharp edge around the scales.
Looks good! If your sheath is kydex, you can apply a little heat and squeeze the opening a bit to tighten it up. Leather I would thing good be done by wet forming sheath around the finished knife.
"...it costs nothing to be polite." - Winston Churchill
“Maybe the cheese in the mousetrap is an artificially created cheaper price?” -Sal
I like the look of this one very much, and I think you did a fantastic job of it. Two thumbs spyder legs up.
If hogging on a grinder, were you able to track the temp of the steel in some way? Slow speed grinder, friable wheel, use of water or coolant, using a thermometer for checks, or anything like that? I get queasy with blades around grinders, due to heat, but maybe I'm just overly cautious.
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
I like the look of this one very much, and I think you did a fantastic job of it. Two thumbs spyder legs up.
If hogging on a grinder, were you able to track the temp of the steel in some way? Slow speed grinder, friable wheel, use of water or coolant, using a thermometer for checks, or anything like that? I get queasy with blades around grinders, due to heat, but maybe I'm just overly cautious.
I just hold my fingers close enough to the steel that I can feel heat, and/or I'm careful to not let the steel start to get dark or rainbow in color. I go slow and I dip it into cold water after every pass when I'm inspecting it to see how it's progressing. I'm extra careful on the grinder because it will definitely get the steel too hot, but I almost never have that issue with a Dremel. Dremel work should be slow and calculated, I relate it a lot to whittling, I take slow almost carving passes and shape it slowly.
Just finished beveling the edge. It helps to blend in the work I did around the guard and I really didn't love that sharp edge peeking out from the edge of the scales.
Blending the bevel around into the plunge line shoulder was nerve racking lol. This whole thing also really makes sharpening so much easier especially on a Sharpmaker.
Last edited by Evil D on Sun Jul 24, 2022 1:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
I just hold my fingers close enough to the steel that I can feel heat, and/or I'm careful to not let the steel start to get dark or rainbow in color. I go slow and I dip it into hot water after every pass when I'm inspecting it to see how it's progressing. I'm extra careful on the grinder because it will definitely get the steel too hot, but I almost never have that issue with a Dremel.
Sounds like very good technique. The fingers in particular don't lie!
Have you ever used a friable (usually white) wheel? They cut really well, and stay remarkably cool, compared to the grey wheels. Downside being, well--being friable--they don't last long, by design.
Very nice result, and the bevel looks visually pleasing as well as comfortable! I love a knife that sends the message "This owner cares."
My method for beveling is to chuck a 45 degree stone in a drill press or mill, and then move the tang against the stone. Takes many passes, but many passes also translates into an even bevel line all around. I've discovered the possiblity of a gouge or too deep in one area is virtually nil with that method...as long as you keep the knife moving, of course.
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
Both of your versions look really nice. Both reduced nubbins visually match the thumb ramp better than the OEM nubbin. Much better, in fact. To me it makes the Mule look like a more integrated design. Have you considered flattening the ramp, or are you pleased with it as is?
Both of your versions look really nice. Both reduced nubbins visually match the thumb ramp better than the OEM nubbin. Much better, in fact. To me it makes the Mule look like a more integrated design. Have you considered flattening the ramp, or are you pleased with it as is?
Pretty much all day I looked at the thumb ramp and thought of how I could tweak it but I don't think there's a lot of wiggle room while still keeping it factory looking. I could soften down that top shoulder a bit, but Spyderco's always have a pretty consistent thickness of steel in the circle around the top of the thumb hole and if you go too thin or in other words bring down the thumb ramp slope too much it'll get too thin between the ramp and the hole and probably look weird. I'm going to color it in marker and look at it for a few days, that's my favorite way to "try out" mods like this without committing.
Pretty much all day I looked at the thumb ramp and thought of how I could tweak it but I don't think there's a lot of wiggle room while still keeping it factory looking. I could soften down that top shoulder a bit, but Spyderco's always have a pretty consistent thickness of steel in the circle around the top of the thumb hole and if you go too thin or in other words bring down the thumb ramp slope too much it'll get too thin between the ramp and the hole and probably look weird.
I agree. I've come to the same conclusion. I've seen modified thumb ramps, and while I'm sure they're comfortable, and suit their owners, they do change the look of the knife considerably, with a thin-looking bit of steel encircling the back of the spyder hole.
I've seen proposals for scooping out the area around the hole entirely, and substituting a large "thumb-shelf" in its place. Of course that radically changes the look and possibly the strength. I'm certain someone will do it, sooner or later.
While it would be nice (and more comfortable) to have a more gradual thumb ramp on the mule, that would mean past sheaths would likely no longer fit, so I don't see the design changing any. Plus, one of the rules of experimentation as pertains to the mule is, you keep everything but the steel, constant.
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
Pretty much all day I looked at the thumb ramp and thought of how I could tweak it but I don't think there's a lot of wiggle room while still keeping it factory looking. I could soften down that top shoulder a bit, but Spyderco's always have a pretty consistent thickness of steel in the circle around the top of the thumb hole and if you go too thin or in other words bring down the thumb ramp slope too much it'll get too thin between the ramp and the hole and probably look weird.
I agree. I've come to the same conclusion. I've seen modified thumb ramps, and while I'm sure they're comfortable, and suit their owners, they do change the look of the knife considerably, with a thin-looking bit of steel encircling the back of the spyder hole.
I've seen proposals for scooping out the area around the hole entirely, and substituting a large "thumb-shelf" in its place. Of course that radically changes the look and possibly the strength. I'm certain someone will do it, sooner or later.
While it would be nice (and more comfortable) to have a more gradual thumb ramp on the mule, that would mean past sheaths would likely no longer fit, so I don't see the design changing any. Plus, one of the rules of experimentation as pertains to the mule is, you keep everything but the steel, constant.
I'm kinda surprised it's such a middle of the road thumb ramp. I'd just assume it was far bigger or completely flat like a Shaman. But, that would totally screw up sheath compatibility so I don't expect it to happen.
Pretty much all day I looked at the thumb ramp and thought of how I could tweak it but I don't think there's a lot of wiggle room while still keeping it factory looking. I could soften down that top shoulder a bit, but Spyderco's always have a pretty consistent thickness of steel in the circle around the top of the thumb hole and if you go too thin or in other words bring down the thumb ramp slope too much it'll get too thin between the ramp and the hole and probably look weird.
I agree. I've come to the same conclusion. I've seen modified thumb ramps, and while I'm sure they're comfortable, and suit their owners, they do change the look of the knife considerably, with a thin-looking bit of steel encircling the back of the spyder hole.
I've seen proposals for scooping out the area around the hole entirely, and substituting a large "thumb-shelf" in its place. Of course that radically changes the look and possibly the strength. I'm certain someone will do it, sooner or later.
While it would be nice (and more comfortable) to have a more gradual thumb ramp on the mule, that would mean past sheaths would likely no longer fit, so I don't see the design changing any. Plus, one of the rules of experimentation as pertains to the mule is, you keep everything but the steel, constant.
Hey guys.
I did a mod of my thumb ramp that makes it feel more like a Manix, and I think it works quite well without looking awkward. To make the mod look natural, I ground the spine down a little to make the steel around the Spydiehole look even. Here’s a quick photo for illustration:
I still need to get a mule! I want one but I always miss the sale of them. They have that fantastic leaf shape and I agree for cutting board use docking the tab to a smaller nubbin would be preferable. That said, for field usage I prefer a bit for sheath retention not to mention safety in a stabbing motion.
: H1, M4, 4v, 10v, Hap40, s90v, s110v, BD1n, Maxamet, Magnacut
