Scratches from...Kydex Sheath?

[Bolster]

I've inserted my new Magna mule into a kydex sheath a dozen times and it now has visible horizontal scratches on the blade. I assume there must be some hard particles inside the kydex? Thought the sheath was completely clean, had not been outside yet. Hasn't been around any abrasives since receiving it (assume abrasives were used in the making however). Will wash and dry the kydex and report back. Seems counterintuitive that kydex could scratch Rc 62.6...

It's of no functional consequence whatsoever, cosmetic only, but...it's curious. A good thing in a way because the knife obviously wants to be a user not a safe queen...

[TkoK83Spy]

I had this happen with my Guardian 3 Wharnie with its Kydex sheath when I first got it. It didn't scratch the DLC on the blade, but I could feel it dragging and was creating some marks on the blade. It eventually must have worked itself out, as it no longer scrapes but is still a very snug fit. Hopefully that's the case here with yours as well!

[Bolster]

Thanks! DK if I'm following best procedure here, but I soaked the sheath in warm soapy water for awhile then forced water through the sheath to rinse it. (About impossible to get any sort of swab or cloth into the sheath to clean it...too narrow.) This, followed by an extended drying session in front of a fan.

[Xplorer]

Kydex is indeed rather soft. If it's scratching Magnacut there's a piece of grit, sand, metal..something stuck in the kydex. This is pretty common actually. Hot water rinsing could solve your problem. If not, you can pinch a piece of sandpaper (1000 grit or finer) around your blade (grit facing out of course) and run it in and out a few times. Then wash it out with water again. If you do this, a couple of strokes should be enough...be very careful not to "sand" the sheath down inside, as you don't want to make it loose.
Keep in mind that if things don't go as planned and you accidentally make it too loose while trying to fix it you live close enough that you can bring it to me and we can either re-heat and re-mold it or make a new one altogether.

[Bolster]

If not, you can pinch a piece of sandpaper (1000 grit or finer) around your blade (grit facing out of course) and run it in and out a few times. Then wash it out with water again.

O, that's clever. Why didn't I think of that? Many thanks! Confident I can correct this...

[resonanzmacher]

It's the one flaw of kydex and other thermosetting plastic that if there's anything gritty on the blade when you put it away, that grit will embed into the kydex and do its best to scratch up the blade.

You just get used to giving the blade a wipe on something clean or at least grit free before you sheath it.

[Pokey]

Pssst, they’re made from Boltaron, not Kydex. I don’t know if there’s much of a temperature difference to rework it or not.

[Bolster]

I'm not talking ^ Spyderco sheath. I had a custom sheath made of kydex.

Hey, a footnote to the sandpaper technique: I didn't follow CK's instructions exactly (should have). I used rubber cement to glue a bit of sandpaper (grit out of course) over the scratched area. Ran it in and out of the sheath a dozen times. It worked! BUT: If you do this, be certain to put masking tape over the non-sandpaper-covered side of the blade. I didn't, and it looks like sanding grit from the "sanded side" of the kydex transferred to the other (inside) side. So now I've eliminated the source of the original scratches (left side of blade) and have given myself some seriously professional-level scratches on the right side of the blade! LOL. Welp, this MC mule's a user now, for sure. Looks like I owned it for a decade already and have been stabbing it into desert sand.

I always find it amusing when a larger problem is created by trying to solve a smaller problem.

[legOFwhat?]

I've done this too many times to count, PMA11, PD#1 and even on my Z-max! Grit just finds it's way in. Chad gave some excellent advice in sanding and cleaning the kydex really well before sealing! I've too often locked down my rivets before cleaning up the contact areas, thus causing horizontal scratches on my mule.

Removing those scratches isn't easy..

[yablanowitz]

Lucky for me, scratches on my blades are the norm, not the exception.

[Pokey]

I'm not talking ^ Spyderco sheath. I had a custom sheath made of kydex.

Ahh, got ya. I've got one of the Spyderco sheaths and it scratched up one of my PD-1 blades. It's a spot 3/16" long and all the way to the tip that got scratched. It's in a spot where there's no way to get sand paper in there, so I'll just use that knife in that sheath. I've got a another new one, but haven't tried it yet. The leather one I have is obviously no problem.

[Wandering_About]

I have had grit get into Kydex sheaths and scratch blades (most recently on a custom made of MagnaCut). Washing with water then blowing the sheath out with compressed air usually works very well for me, though a time or two I have had to use a q-tip to reach in and do a little extra work.

[Bolster]

I tediously vertical-sanded most of the worst horizontal scratches out (so couldn't feel scratches with thumbnail anymore), re-cleaned the sheath by flooding it with a high volume of fast running water, dried with tissue, then with fan. Reinserted MC blade, and got bad new scratches in a different location. (Well at least the grit moved.)

OK, stick a fork in it.

I'm going to stonewash this MC mule. I'm gonna put so many scratches on it that no new scratches will be visible! I'll have to sacrifice the cute bug logo and the word "magnacut" but that's OK. I haven't sharpened the mule yet, so I may as well wait until the dulling process of stonewashing is complete.

Man! What a fail. I don't know WHAT to do with this sheath at this point. The problem is, that a "test" of the sheath for cleanliness just leaves new scratches (in new places!!) every time I try. I think all I'm doing is moving the grit around...!!

[Xplorer]

I hate to hear how stubborn this problem is turning out to be for you. I personally find it totally unacceptable to experience a problem with a knife and not get it worked out. I suggest you enjoy scratching that Mule through the holidays and then we find a time in January for you to visit me. At this point I would suggest we cut that sheath open to be able to see the "culprit" and learn from the problem, then just make you a new one. I have at least 8 colors of Kydex and I can bring in others ahead of time too. If you'd like, you can learn how to do a hand rubbed finish on the blade while you're here as well.

[Bstueve]

Congratulations Bolster. That’s one heck of an offer. I would pay good money for an opportunity like that. I have been lurking for several years and Xplorer does the most amazing work. I just wanted to take the opportunity to thank Xplorer for all of his contributions to this forum. I have saved his Kydex sheath and mule handle posts and plan to attempt a start soon. I have gotten all the mules since SPY27, and hope to start making some scales soon.

[WilliamMunny]

It’s good to hear Kydex has isssues too. I put my z-max mule into the Spyderco leather sheath and within a few days it started to patina. Was not happy but from what I read the chemicals and moisture in the leather can cause it.

[Bolster]

Kydex is indeed rather soft…

Thanks so much CK. Will gratefully accept offer. Sorry short response. Traveling w only iphone and i have fat fingers that press two keys simultaneously!

[clizmurillo@gmail.com]

Boltaron is what the sheath from spyderco promotes. It scratched my magnacut blade...This sucks

[Bolster]

Boltaron is what the sheath from spyderco promotes. It scratched my magnacut blade...This sucks

It's not the Boltaron, it's the grit that gets between the Boltaron and your knife.

If you get grit in your sheath, regardless Boltaron or Kydex or Royalite or Concealex or Leather, you'll get scratches.

[Bloke]

This sucks