Handle and tang not flush?

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Shmohawk
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Handle and tang not flush?

#1

Post by Shmohawk »

I was lucky enough to be able to get a 15V Mule (first mule :party-face ).
I purchased the handles from Spyderco and after putting them on I see that the tang sticks out at the top above the handles.
Is that the way it supposed to be? Why would they make them like that?
Doesn't bother me much yet but I can imagine it possibly getting uncomfortable with extended use.
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Re: Handle and tang not flush?

#2

Post by blueblur »

With the handles being separate, you’re just going to get some variation.

The handles I purchased from halpern are slightly short, making the blade tang proud. At first I wish it was the other way around so I could sand the handles flush with the blade but they’re not off by much and when using the knife I can’t tell and it doesn’t make a difference, so I stopped worrying about it.

I think I read Spyderco doesn’t make their own mule handles. Even if they did, there is some small variation between the different mules.
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Re: Handle and tang not flush?

#3

Post by JRinFL »

Halpern Titanium (https://www.halperntitanium.com/spyderco-mule-team) is the maker of the scales and they have always been made this way. As has been stated, it allows for some variance in the profile of the mules as there is some difference between makers. I have never noticed it in use, but others have. There are other makers of scales, some of which are a closer fit. Of course, nothing is a closer fit than making your own if can or choose to do so.
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RustyIron
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Re: Handle and tang not flush?

#4

Post by RustyIron »

The undersized scales are an intentional stylistic decision.

Does Spyderco REALLY have so much slop in their manufacturing that scales cannot be made to fit?
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Re: Handle and tang not flush?

#5

Post by Shmohawk »

JRinFL wrote:
Fri Jun 02, 2023 7:41 am
Halpern Titanium (https://www.halperntitanium.com/spyderco-mule-team) is the maker of the scales and they have always been made this way. As has been stated, it allows for some variance in the profile of the mules as there is some difference between makers. I have never noticed it in use, but others have. There are other makers of scales, some of which are a closer fit. Of course, nothing is a closer fit than making your own if can or choose to do so.
I assumed that the Mules were all made the same and there wouldn't be any variances.
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Re: Handle and tang not flush?

#6

Post by JRinFL »

Others have reported that the handles can vary a bit, even though I would assume that they would be exactly the same. I never checked mine as I really do not care. I'm just passing on what I have read here in other threads.

Yes, there is a stylistic reason for the scales as well, just like the Bradley folders. It also allows for the handles and/or scales to be less than perfect and still work. Since the handles and scales are not final sanded to shape like they would be on non-Mule knife, I'm going to think it a bit more of the latter rather than the former.

If you want the actual word from the horses mouth, please call Spyderco & Halpern.
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bobartig
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Re: Handle and tang not flush?

#7

Post by bobartig »

If you grab like 4 mules and pin them together with 3/16" chicago bolts, you will see there's enough variance that when you run your finger nail over them, it catches on some. It's like 1/3 of a millimeter here or there. The solution is to have the scales shy by ~1.5mm so the variances don't really show. Functionally there's no real difference.

In terms of manufacturing slop, the question in manufacturing is: "how much do you want to pay?" Can Spydero make all Mules identical to within 1/1000 of an inch? Probably. Do you wan them to cost $3000 each? Probably not. So when you think about how much more precise you would like their global mfring pipelines to be, you should always consider that lock-step with how much more you are willing to pay.
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Re: Handle and tang not flush?

#8

Post by JRinFL »

bobartig wrote:
Fri Jun 09, 2023 10:03 am
If you grab like 4 mules and pin them together with 3/16" chicago bolts, you will see there's enough variance that when you run your finger nail over them, it catches on some. It's like 1/3 of a millimeter here or there. The solution is to have the scales shy by ~1.5mm so the variances don't really show. Functionally there's no real difference.

In terms of manufacturing slop, the question in manufacturing is: "how much do you want to pay?" Can Spydero make all Mules identical to within 1/1000 of an inch? Probably. Do you wan them to cost $3000 each? Probably not. So when you think about how much more precise you would like their global mfring pipelines to be, you should always consider that lock-step with how much more you are willing to pay.
This is a very important sentence, so I highlighted it. I try to be cognizant that my requests can often lead to a higher price if implemented.
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Bolster
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Re: Handle and tang not flush?

#9

Post by Bolster »

RustyIron wrote:
Fri Jun 02, 2023 8:48 am
The undersized scales are an intentional stylistic decision.

That's how I make my scales, too. I like the spine sticking out a bit. I think it gives me a better feel for the orientation of the knife. But I do chamfer the edges of the spine when I fit undersized scales, for comfort. (The angle of the camera makes it appear there's less spine at the top, but that's just wide-angle lens parallax.)
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Re: Handle and tang not flush?

#10

Post by RustyIron »

Bolster wrote:
Fri Jun 09, 2023 5:42 pm
That's how I make my scales, too. I like the spine sticking out a bit.
That looks gorgeous. I like the proportion. I'm not a fan of those commercial scales where you can't tell if they were trying for a perfect fit or an undersize fit. I've always made scales to fit, mainly because that's all that ever occurred to me, and more importantly, because it's easier. Making a perfect margin on all sides seems hard.
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Re: Handle and tang not flush?

#11

Post by Bolster »

Thanks man! Regards:
RustyIron wrote:
Fri Jun 09, 2023 11:04 pm
...Making a perfect margin on all sides seems hard...

If it weren't for a bearing guided router bit, I'd agree. But with a BGRB, it's a cinch!
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
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