15V Mule Team scale bolt holes

[troutinCO]

So I went to put my Halpern scales on and the barrels wont fit through the holes. Yay. Checked for burrs like we have seen before, none. Tried to hammer them through, tried to pull then through with a screw on the other side and no joy. Tried some other barrels from a SFO bought scale set, no joy. I can get them halfway through and then they just stop.

Curiosity got me and I grabbed my calipers.....
Holes measure on one side: 0.176", 0.177" and 0.176"
Holes on the other side: 0.1825", 0.1815" and 0.1805"
Barrel measures 0.1865"
Holes on my Z-max(only one not in scales) are 0.187" consistently.

Think I can file my way to freedom on these holes?

[Justintoxicated]

So I went to put my Halpern scales on and the barrels wont fit through the holes. Yay. Checked for burrs like we have seen before, none. Tried to hammer them through, tried to pull then through with a screw on the other side and no joy. Tried some other barrels from a SFO bought scale set, no joy. I can get them halfway through and then they just stop.

Curiosity got me and I grabbed my calipers.....
Holes measure on one side: 0.176", 0.177" and 0.176"
Holes on the other side: 0.1825", 0.1815" and 0.1805"
Barrel measures 0.1865"
Holes on my Z-max(only one not in scales) are 0.187" consistently.

Thick I can file my way to freedom on these holes?

I sure hope so! You sure got that knife fast!

[swknight]

Thanks for posting. Looks like either a SUPER DRILL BIT (read really super almost diamond) or wrapping with cord...

[sal]

Hi Trout,

You might bring it back to shop and let them know. They can probably sort it for you (ream), but it will also alert them to the issue.

sal

[Bolster]

Holes measure on one side: 0.176", 0.177" and 0.176"
Holes on the other side: 0.1825", 0.1815" and 0.1805"
Barrel measures 0.1865"

Sand down the barrel nut? Is it possible to install a longer screw into the barrel and then chuck it into your drill press, and sand down the spinning barrel nut? Just spitballing here...

[troutinCO]

Hi Trout,

You might bring it back to shop and let them know. They can probably sort it for you (ream), but it will also alert them to the issue.

sal

Sal,
Thank you! I will do this but it will be next week before I can get over there. I am going to be out of town for a long Memorial Day weekend. I don't have the proper tools to ream it out myself or I totally would have done it tonight. Please enjoy your Memorial Day!
Scott

Bolster,
I had lots of ideas but basic hand tools, no vise, no drill press, no dremel, I do have a power drill but no vice or clamps makes it hard . Any of those things should make this a super easy fix honestly if anyone else gets the issue. I'd just go get a sacrificial bit or two to use in a drill press with the knife properly clamped if I had those things and be done if I could. My tool needs is a whole other discussion to have....

[Bolster]

...I do have a power drill ...

Thinking this through, there is a way with the tools you have. But you need to bring Mohammad to the mountain, not the mountain to Mohammad. In other words, work on the part that's easiest to modify, the barrel nut. Not the knife holes.

I'm not certain that the "sacrificial drill bit into the holes route" will work. It might, but I have doubts. I think you'd at least need a carbide bit and hella strong clamping with a drill press, or better yet a mill, to make that work. Drilling hardened steel is not a job for an unguided hand drill, in my experience.

Basically a piece of sandpaper against the rotating barrel nut is all you need (if you want a DIY fix). If the barrel nut is brass it should be pretty quick, but still doable if steel. My barrel nuts are 4x40, if yours is the same, you want to find a 4x40 screw that's at least 1" long, and two nuts to fit that screw. Thread the barrel nut all the way to the head, then thread on the two nuts, and jam them together by tightening them against each other, locking the barrel nut in place. Then chuck the thread end of the screw into your drill, and pinch the barrel nut between folded-over sandpaper. You've just made a poor man's lathe. Run the drill and sand, measuring the diameter of the barrel nut with your calipers occasionally, until you have a size of barrel nut that fits. If you're clever, you can even slope the sand so the barrel nut fits both sides of your hole...but that's not really necessary.

Of course there are other ways to skin the cat, this is just one. It's the route I'll go if I have the same issues with my 15V mule.

[troutinCO]

Bolster,
I will be honest: I have a case of "idontwanttodealwithitz" lol. I just wanted it to work out of the box yesterday when I got home from work. Which is totally not in line with mule team, I know.
I will have to deal with it next week when I am back in town and can look at it and better assess what I could do here. I think the easy button is to take the 10 minute drive over to the SFO and let them ream the 3 holes for me when I get back. As Sal said it will alert them to a possible issue too.
If I was not local then I REALLY like your idea the best to start with as the first thing to try. I have done similar before on other things and I know it would work. See what I feel like when I get back in town: DIY or easy button.
Thanks Bolster!

[JRinFL]

Always modify the least expensive part first. Removing some material from the barrel is the least expensive method in time and money. I don't believe the barrels are hardened so it should be relatively fast to reduce the diameter.

With a machine screw, some nuts, sandpaper, and a handheld drill you should be able to get it done relatively quickly.

[kennbr34]

Curiosity got me and I grabbed my calipers.....
Holes measure on one side: 0.176", 0.177" and 0.176"
Holes on the other side: 0.1825", 0.1815" and 0.1805"
Barrel measures 0.1865"
Holes on my Z-max(only one not in scales) are 0.187" consistently.

So if I'm reading that correctly, the holes are not only not a consistent diameter, but are also tapered from one end to the other?

Personally, this sounds like something that could be reamed out with a Dremel and a diamond-abrasive drum bit. Just tape up the blade and punch a hole through the tape if you're worried a bout the drum making scratches (not that anyone would see them under the scales anyway, but whatever) and then run the Dremel in concentric circles against the ID of the hole counter to the direction of the spin. I ream out parts with mine like this pretty frequently, you just gotta do a little bit at a time, measure, etc. As long as you stay within +/- .005" on all sides, any slop should be imperceptible, especially when you snug things down.

Sanding the barrels down with the poor-man's lathe is not a bad idea either, but 30 mins with the dremel and you'll have it back to a standard diameter and will never have to fiddle with it again if you wanted to try other scales, replace them for some reason, etc.

[troutinCO]

Curiosity got me and I grabbed my calipers.....
Holes measure on one side: 0.176", 0.177" and 0.176"
Holes on the other side: 0.1825", 0.1815" and 0.1805"
Barrel measures 0.1865"
Holes on my Z-max(only one not in scales) are 0.187" consistently.

So if I'm reading that correctly, the holes are not only not a consistent diameter, but are also tapered from one end to the other?

Personally, this sounds like something that could be reamed out with a Dremel and a diamond-abrasive drum bit. Just tape up the blade and punch a hole through the tape if you're worried a bout the drum making scratches (not that anyone would see them under the scales anyway, but whatever) and then run the Dremel in concentric circles against the ID of the hole counter to the direction of the spin. I ream out parts with mine like this pretty frequently, you just gotta do a little bit at a time, measure, etc. As long as you stay within +/- .005" on all sides, any slop should be imperceptible, especially when you snug things down.

Sanding the barrels down with the poor-man's lathe is not a bad idea either, but 30 mins with the dremel and you'll have it back to a standard diameter and will never have to fiddle with it again if you wanted to try other scales, replace them for some reason, etc.

Yea they do seem tapered. I can get the barrel started on one side of the knife but not the other. About halfway through the hole they stop going through.
If I had the tools to do this the easy way I'd have it done yesterday after discovering the issue. Plenty of easy ways to fix it with the right tools and ways to fix it without them. As stated I have a case of "Idontwanttodealwithitz" with a side of "becauseidonthavethetoolsthatiwanttodoitwithz" so will be just taking it back over to Spyderco to fix up next week when I get back in town.

[kennbr34]

Curiosity got me and I grabbed my calipers.....
Holes measure on one side: 0.176", 0.177" and 0.176"
Holes on the other side: 0.1825", 0.1815" and 0.1805"
Barrel measures 0.1865"
Holes on my Z-max(only one not in scales) are 0.187" consistently.

So if I'm reading that correctly, the holes are not only not a consistent diameter, but are also tapered from one end to the other?

Personally, this sounds like something that could be reamed out with a Dremel and a diamond-abrasive drum bit. Just tape up the blade and punch a hole through the tape if you're worried a bout the drum making scratches (not that anyone would see them under the scales anyway, but whatever) and then run the Dremel in concentric circles against the ID of the hole counter to the direction of the spin. I ream out parts with mine like this pretty frequently, you just gotta do a little bit at a time, measure, etc. As long as you stay within +/- .005" on all sides, any slop should be imperceptible, especially when you snug things down.

Sanding the barrels down with the poor-man's lathe is not a bad idea either, but 30 mins with the dremel and you'll have it back to a standard diameter and will never have to fiddle with it again if you wanted to try other scales, replace them for some reason, etc.

Yea they do seem tapered. I can get the barrel started on one side of the knife but not the other. About halfway through the hole they stop going through.
If I had the tools to do this the easy way I'd have it done yesterday after discovering the issue. Plenty of easy ways to fix it with the right tools and ways to fix it without them. As stated I have a case of "Idontwanttodealwithitz" with a side of "becauseidonthavethetoolsthatiwanttodoitwithz" so will be just taking it back over to Spyderco to fix up next week when I get back in town.

Oh, yeah, missed that. I would probably feel better taking it back to them to get them reamed to higher tolerance too.

[TazKristi]

Hi, troutinCO:
I'm sorry for the inconvenience, but we'll get you taken care of quickly when you bring in your Mule next week.

We did review the inventory waiting to ship out here and believe yours is an anomaly - we couldn't find any others with that issue.

Enjoy your long weekend and safe travels!

Kristi

[troutinCO]

TazKristi,
No inconvenience for me. I know you guys will take care of it when I get it in next week. It had to be a freak occurrence and hopefully no one else gets an odd one like mine. You also have a great long weekend!
Scott

[cycleguy]

Trout,

Just came across your post so I went and checked mine. No fit issues at all.

CG

[fanglekai]

Mine was just delivered. I ordered the handle kit from Spyderco and I cannot get the spacers to fit into the handle.

[razorburn]

Can't believe what I'm hearing.I have bought Halpern Titanium scales before and never had problems.I also bought scales with sheaths,will report if I have the same problems.

Thankfully I have a lathe which will remedy them barrels in no time with carbide tooling.

[razorburn]

double tap

[standy99]

Had one or two out of probably 30 now.

Put the two screws in and cut a few strips of 600 grit wet and dry and sand like a shoe shine in a vice or a set of multi grips

[fanglekai]

I tried my second 15V mule and the holes were clearly the right size because I had no trouble getting the scales attached. So I’m 1 for 2 on correct sizing.