First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
- WilliamMunny
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First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
I wanted to share my first attempt at making wood scales for my Z-Wear Mule. First I wanted to thank Xplorer for his great guide for making knife scales. Also a big thank you to Sal and his team for keeping the Mule Team alive, great job. His complete guide can be found here: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=89740&hilit=making+a+mule+handle
I wont go over every detail as Xplorer covered it well but I will just highlight my experiences. I ordered a block of red coolibah burl wood for the handle. It came with a large crack in it but I did not want to waste the wood. I sent the wood out the be stabilzed clear by K&G. After I got it back I cut it in half I ended up using black CA glue from Starbond which worked great to fill the crack and add some character.
Once I was able to fill the crack I epoxied black and white 1/32" G10 liners to the scales I got from Jantz then cut the basic shape with my bandsaw. This was my first issue I ran into, the 1/4" blade on my bandsaw was too big to follow the curves of the knife. Next time I will use a 1/8" blade next time which should allow me to follow the pattern easier.
I was able to further shape the handle, add corby bolts and epoxy the scales to the knife. The second main issue I had here was finding the correct depth for the corby bolts. At first I cut them a little too short so I had to make the holes in the handles a bit deeper. But making them deeper did not leave enough of the head sticking out of the handle. You need to sand almost 1/4" off the bolt to hide the screw hole in them. When drilling go shallow and test fit the full size bolts, then adjust from there. You can always drill a little deeper or take a little more off the bolt but you can go back.
My final main issue was having the knife handle being too fat, almost .85" when I attached the rough handles onto the knife. I was able to get it down to .75" at its fattest part which felt pretty good but it took a lot of time to remove that much wood once it was mounted on the knife. Buy calipers, about $30, to measure the wood thickness before you attach it to the knife. It works a lot better than going by feel like I did.
Below is the final knife, again my first attempt at making knife handles but I am pretty happy how they come out. I sanded from 100, 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 and finally 2500. I also buffed the knife with a blue compound. My next scales for my MagnaCut will be out of cherry and now I know a few more tricks, traps to avoid and places to improve on.
I wont go over every detail as Xplorer covered it well but I will just highlight my experiences. I ordered a block of red coolibah burl wood for the handle. It came with a large crack in it but I did not want to waste the wood. I sent the wood out the be stabilzed clear by K&G. After I got it back I cut it in half I ended up using black CA glue from Starbond which worked great to fill the crack and add some character.
Once I was able to fill the crack I epoxied black and white 1/32" G10 liners to the scales I got from Jantz then cut the basic shape with my bandsaw. This was my first issue I ran into, the 1/4" blade on my bandsaw was too big to follow the curves of the knife. Next time I will use a 1/8" blade next time which should allow me to follow the pattern easier.
I was able to further shape the handle, add corby bolts and epoxy the scales to the knife. The second main issue I had here was finding the correct depth for the corby bolts. At first I cut them a little too short so I had to make the holes in the handles a bit deeper. But making them deeper did not leave enough of the head sticking out of the handle. You need to sand almost 1/4" off the bolt to hide the screw hole in them. When drilling go shallow and test fit the full size bolts, then adjust from there. You can always drill a little deeper or take a little more off the bolt but you can go back.
My final main issue was having the knife handle being too fat, almost .85" when I attached the rough handles onto the knife. I was able to get it down to .75" at its fattest part which felt pretty good but it took a lot of time to remove that much wood once it was mounted on the knife. Buy calipers, about $30, to measure the wood thickness before you attach it to the knife. It works a lot better than going by feel like I did.
Below is the final knife, again my first attempt at making knife handles but I am pretty happy how they come out. I sanded from 100, 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 and finally 2500. I also buffed the knife with a blue compound. My next scales for my MagnaCut will be out of cherry and now I know a few more tricks, traps to avoid and places to improve on.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, BBB 15V Manix 2, REC PM3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4.
- Josh Crutchley
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Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
Looks amazing!!
Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
Very nice! It's fun seeing what other people create.
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Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
Impressive! You’ve got me thinking about trying it. Where did you get the Corby bolts? What size? Where did you get the G10 liners?
I have a piece of Walnut that should be good practice for a first try.
I have a piece of Walnut that should be good practice for a first try.
- WilliamMunny
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Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
I got my bolts, 3/16” from Jantz:sustratiotes wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 2:58 pmImpressive! You’ve got me thinking about trying it. Where did you get the Corby bolts? What size? Where did you get the G10 liners?
I have a piece of Walnut that should be good practice for a first try.
w1.jpeg
https://knifemaking.com/products/cp627- ... 0548621448
I also got the G10 liners from Jantz:
https://knifemaking.com/products/1-32-g10-liner
No issues but it is standard $12 shipping that adds up. It surprised me how much all the supplies, shipping, stabilization, etc. cost.
Rough estimate:
Burl wood block: $25
Liners w/shipping: $26
Bolts w/shipping: $12
Stabilization w/shipping: $20
Sand paper: $20
And so on…
It is rough and bigger orders can offset the shipping. I think I sent four sets of scales to be stabilized to offset my $20 to ship to them and their $15 to ship back.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, BBB 15V Manix 2, REC PM3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4.
- WilliamMunny
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Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
Has anyone ever used thin CA glue to seal/gloss the handle. I have seen it done on wood pens but I was not sure on knives.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, BBB 15V Manix 2, REC PM3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4.
- standy99
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Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
Great build…
if it was me I would use Mineral oil several times and then finally bees wax to seal the handle. Keeps the wood feel to the handle. If it’s stabilised you don’t need to seal it..
Again Great build and congratulations
if it was me I would use Mineral oil several times and then finally bees wax to seal the handle. Keeps the wood feel to the handle. If it’s stabilised you don’t need to seal it..
Again Great build and congratulations
Im a vegetarian as technically cows are made of grass and water.
Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
I have. I tried it several times, and eventually gave up and just bought vacuum chambers and started stabilizing instead. Stabilization and super high grit sanding (I usually go up to about 5000 grit) gives me a great high gloss look, which is what I was trying for with the CA glue. I never got to the point with the CA glue that I was able to get to with stabilization fairly early in the learning curve. Adding thin CA on top of the stabilized wood didn't really add anything, either, so after trying that a couple times I just ditched CA entirely and went back to stabilization and high grit sanding/polishing.WilliamMunny wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 3:56 pmHas anyone ever used thin CA glue to seal/gloss the handle. I have seen it done on wood pens but I was not sure on knives.
- WilliamMunny
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Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
Thanks for the information. These are stabilized and sanded to 2500 plus buffed with a blue compound. They are around a semi gloss to high gloss. I probably could buff more if I wanted a higher gloss but overall they look pretty good. They have a bit more gloss than the pictures show.TomAiello wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 9:58 pmI have. I tried it several times, and eventually gave up and just bought vacuum chambers and started stabilizing instead. Stabilization and super high grit sanding (I usually go up to about 5000 grit) gives me a great high gloss look, which is what I was trying for with the CA glue. I never got to the point with the CA glue that I was able to get to with stabilization fairly early in the learning curve. Adding thin CA on top of the stabilized wood didn't really add anything, either, so after trying that a couple times I just ditched CA entirely and went back to stabilization and high grit sanding/polishing.WilliamMunny wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 3:56 pmHas anyone ever used thin CA glue to seal/gloss the handle. I have seen it done on wood pens but I was not sure on knives.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, BBB 15V Manix 2, REC PM3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4.
- legOFwhat?
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Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
Beautiful character in those scales!
-Larry
Hebrews 13:6 So we may boldly say: “The Lord is my helper; I will not fear. What can man do to me?”
MNOSD #0049
Hebrews 13:6 So we may boldly say: “The Lord is my helper; I will not fear. What can man do to me?”
MNOSD #0049
Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
Beautiful work!
I like the liners and the coolibah. I think the crack is great. It adds visual interest and makes the knife even more unique.
I like the liners and the coolibah. I think the crack is great. It adds visual interest and makes the knife even more unique.
:spyder: Spyderco fan and collector since 1991. :spyder:
Father of 2, nature explorer, custom knife maker.
@ckc_knifemaker on Instagram.
Father of 2, nature explorer, custom knife maker.
@ckc_knifemaker on Instagram.
Re: First Mule Handle - Some tips and issues I had
Very clever using the black CA glue. May need to "borrow" that trick myself. I agree, gives great character. Nicely done.
IIRC, Mr. CK above mixes sawdust with clear CA glue to achieve a different way of approaching the same issue.
IIRC, Mr. CK above mixes sawdust with clear CA glue to achieve a different way of approaching the same issue.
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189