Barmoley wrote: ↑Sat Jan 22, 2022 5:36 pmInteresting that you guys have good results sharpening these. I haven’t been successful so far using diamond stones of various types. Also, one of my larger knives took a bent to the blade. I didn’t know it could happen and I am very surprised it did. The blade was straight when I got it and was in my knife block. Couple of days ago I saw that someone jammed a smaller steel knife in the same slot, so I was worried that the steel knife might crack the ceramic. When I took the rahven out I’ve noticed that the blade now is bowing, has a bent to it. I don’t know how to straighten it without breaking.
The mule in it would be good and hopefully thicker as these are too flexible for my liking. Also, I hope mules come very sharp from the factory. Rahvens were ok sharp, but not as sharp as I like. My friend also ordered a set and his are not sharp enough to cut tomatoes cleanly, so that’s not good.
It seems like a shame to invest in expensive tooling for a limited run. Especially considering how novel the material is, is there any chance on this being a continuously produced model?
sal wrote: ↑Sat Jan 22, 2022 10:37 pmI have been most impressed with the sharing of knowledge in this sub forum. I'm betting that some will learn a better way and share. When I spoke wit the factory making the blades, she said that they use a diamond belt, That's a good bit of knowledge. I believe we'll teach each other to do it or some will do it and offer it as a service. This is new territory for all of us so we have to assume there will be a learning curve. "We will go where no humans have gone before", Ceramic Mule Team.
Thanks for the recommendation. Roman suggested not to use diamond plates with flexible ceramic, so I haven't tried. I've tried 1200 matrix stone and 2k vitrified diamond in addition to 1 micron on leather.FullScaler wrote: ↑Sun Jan 23, 2022 10:29 amWhile I have not sharpened this specific type of elastic ceramic. I have spent some time learning on my wife's ceramic kitchen knives.
I found that finer grits of diamond for longer times on the stones was the trick.
I started with coarser grits (300 - 600) and while they felt sharp and cut well in the kitchen, they were not what I would call shaving sharp. After looking closely under a loupe and micro photographs I could see that the coarser grits were not really abrading away and refining the edge. But, were instead, taking tiny micro chips out of the edge and made a very aggressive micro toothed edge.
After stepping up to my finest DMT diamond plate, XX Fine. (About 8000 mesh, 3 micron) I had much better results. Instead of starting at medium grits like I would with most steel I started at X Fine (1200 mesh, 9 micron) and worked for a long time, then stepped up to XX Fine and spent a lot more time.
This gave me great results on my wife's regular ceramic kitchen knives and will be my first plan for the elastic ceramic mules.
My basic tips would be, twice or three times as Fine a grit, for three to five times as long as normal steel. And a very, very, light touch on the stones. Definitely not to be rushed or attempted when you are short on time.
You need a middle ground between too hard and too soft. A diamond stone will micro chip this material. Leather is too soft and seems to round the apex. I believe this is why my sharpening on paper on a cardboard backing with diamond paste of 1 micron is successful, it's similar in its physical attributes to the diamond pad Roman was mentioning in one of his vids regarding sharpening.
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