Model request : Pry-Byrd - specialised knife w/ blade for light prying

Discuss Spyderco's byrd knives.
chronovore
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Re: Model request : Pry-Byrd - specialised knife w/ blade for light prying

#21

Post by chronovore »

JRinFL wrote:
Fri Jan 14, 2022 2:45 pm
I'd rather see a secondary pry blade added to some models. Non-locking could work if the design was right.
Yeah, I've got to jump on the whole "not a good use for your primary knife blade" bandwagon.

This is one of the reasons that knives are often part of a larger EDC tool set or carried as part of a multi-tool. Some of us carry a dedicated knife plus a multi-tool. Some of us have a dedicated pry bar as part of our EDC. There are lots of ways to go here.

While the knives on SAKs and multi-tools can leave a lot to be desired, I have seen a few more straightforward knives with just one or two extras in the handle. I think Sanrenmu makes a few budget knives like that, where there might be a bottle opener or can opener that folds off the bottom end of the handle. I'm guessing Spyderco could design a higher quality version of something like that.
Araignee
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Re: Model request : Pry-Byrd - specialised knife w/ blade for light prying

#22

Post by Araignee »

It seems the knives providing the easiest way to integrate a tool within the back of their handle, the most room to play with, are those featuring a liner lock (or compression lock, but I don't think we'll see that anytime soon in a Byrd :grin-sweat).

On the other hand, I personally prefer back locks to liner locks. I find them more ergonomic and also safer to some extent.

Adding a tool to a back lock knife would be challenging due to spatial limitation. Yet at the same time it could provide some additional, commercial differentiation ("Love augmented knives - primary blade + extras - but hate liner locks ? Byrd's got you covered !").
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Re: Model request : Pry-Byrd - specialised knife w/ blade for light prying

#23

Post by JRinFL »

The secondary blade could rotate into a cut out on the pile side scale of a lock back knife. If done correctly, would not add width. However, there is still the second pivot.
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araneae
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Re: Model request : Pry-Byrd - specialised knife w/ blade for light prying

#24

Post by araneae »

I use a SAK driver/bottle opener for light prying frequently. Maybe a beefed up secondary blade on a clipitool would do the trick. I have the screwdriver/opener model and I think it could do the trick in a lot of situations, but it might be an easy solution to just make it a more pry specific tool.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
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99Dirk
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Re: Model request : Pry-Byrd - specialised knife w/ blade for light prying

#25

Post by 99Dirk »

The ClipiTool Rescue has a short screw driver opposite the belt cutter.

How about an Electrician ClipiTool model similar to the TL-29 knives. I think you could keep the smaller flat head and have a medium length pry / screwdriver (hopefully locking).
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Ranger_Ike
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Re: Model request : Pry-Byrd - specialised knife w/ blade for light prying

#26

Post by Ranger_Ike »

Is there a way to use the tang on a friction folder? Or maybe a hybrid friction folder / double detent?

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araneae
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Re: Model request : Pry-Byrd - specialised knife w/ blade for light prying

#27

Post by araneae »

I don't think you want to pry with the tab that opens the knife. You risk bending it.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
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The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
JoshLikesSekiCityKnives
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Re: Model request : Pry-Byrd - specialised knife w/ blade for light prying

#28

Post by JoshLikesSekiCityKnives »

My guess is pry type knives are subject to failure due to the heat treat. Take a crow bar or axe. The HT runs from mid 30's to mid 40's. Toughness is the main reason. Knife blades. Even the basic Buck 420HC runs far above a crow bar or axe.
And something like S30v is just not going to cut it.
I think a better idea.would be to have a proper high Rockwell thumb stud or flipper blade followed with a stiff steel liner heavy handle. or.steel liners with titanium slabs and perhaps a 1 piece handle even.
On the back make a spring eject pry bar from a proper tough tool steel.
Think of a Buck 110 with a bit taller handle equipped with a spring loaded prey bar inset in the top part of handle. Like an OTF.
I hope I explained my thoughts understandably.
I just think it is better to keep a knife and pry bar in different places as opposed to one and all.
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