For those here who have both the Byrd and the standard Spyderco Hawbills (Tasman Salt, SpyderHawk, etc), do you notice a definite difference as far as solidity and weight and cutting ability go, between the Byrd Hawks and the others, or not that much of a difference?
Byrd Hawkbills vs standard Spyderco Hawkbills ?
- SpyderEdgeForever
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- ginsuwarrior
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My first Spyderco knives were a byrd Raven and a byrd Crossbill. Four years since and I still haven't found need to sharpen my Crossbill. Can't really say the same for my Raven, but I admit my Raven sees much more cutting.
The only reason I picked up a Tasman Salt was for the H-1 steel. Hawkbills seem very appropriate around water, and serrated H-1 feels like it'll last a lifetime.
The only reason I picked up a Tasman Salt was for the H-1 steel. Hawkbills seem very appropriate around water, and serrated H-1 feels like it'll last a lifetime.
I love the raven and little bro the crow.best buy from spyderco hands down.I cant believe the are only $25.the cara cara and meadowlark are more money I don't understand it raven has g-10 and sharpened on both sides.the hawkbill is awesome just like the spyderco one. The serration even cut threw bone no problem.I cant believe they are discontinuing the raven. Getem wile you can.I love the old black blade with aluminum handle raven and crow very hard to find but on my top ten list.what are you using the hawkbill for.if fishing I would get the spydie h-1.
- ghostrider
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I"ve used the Crossbill extensively, and occasionally the Tasman salt.Two different blades in the curve and tip as well as the thickness and grind. Byrd knives are hardened to around 60HRC, so while they do hold an edge well, they are not VG-10. That hardness does show itself during sharpening sessions. However, the H1 also work hardens to around that and I haven't noticed much difference between the two on that matter.
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Hawkbills- Sink in the tip, and let it rip!!! :D - Axlis
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Hawkbills- Sink in the tip, and let it rip!!! :D - Axlis
- ginsuwarrior
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As you can see, different type of serrations, byrd not as aggressive as Tasman. I thought I would always appreciate steel liners (which the byrd has) over just straight FRN, but in this case the steel liners in the byrd just feel a little clunky to me, and I appreciate the lightness of the Tasman a bit more.
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The frn scales on the Byrd Hawkbill are more likely to have hot spots than the scales on the Spydercos because the Byrd scales are chunkier and less rounded than those on the Byrds.
The Byrds have a nice finger choil on the bottom and jimping on the top, which is not included on most Spyderco models
The Byrd Hawkbill in 8cr13mov steel is comparable in quality to the more expensive Spyderco Tasman Salt in rust-proof H-1 steel.
The Byrd is an excellent, well-designed knife, and a superb value compared to the Spyderco, but just not as well-finished and smooth.
Byrd to Spyderco is going from very good to great - both or either knives will serve you very well.
The Byrds have a nice finger choil on the bottom and jimping on the top, which is not included on most Spyderco models
The Byrd Hawkbill in 8cr13mov steel is comparable in quality to the more expensive Spyderco Tasman Salt in rust-proof H-1 steel.
The Byrd is an excellent, well-designed knife, and a superb value compared to the Spyderco, but just not as well-finished and smooth.
Byrd to Spyderco is going from very good to great - both or either knives will serve you very well.
- defenestrate
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I love my byrd hawkbill and its serrations work well - I'd prefer my h1 spyderhawk when hiking for corrosion resistance and high SE edge retention but for regular bang around general purpose use I dig the choil and slightly less conspicuous look. and a build quality and reliability level like that at the same price as far less durable knives means I will probably buy more. Still want a Crossbill - likely PE so I can at least see ergos a bit more like the Superhawk.
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