Yes, it does matter if my knife is going to hold that sharp edge for any length of time, or if the extra-fine angle caused by the chisel grind is going to cause my edge to chip, snap, or rollBlerv wrote:Is it sharp? Does the rest matter?
-er, me, by way of Tyrion LannisterI drink, and I cut things.
Emerson Knives are huge fans of a chisel grind and those cost WAY more than a $20 Byrd. Many people here have pleaded for a chisel ground Spyderco in plain edge for years. There is tons of material on the pros and cons of this grind, you might dig around a bit.f15k13 wrote:Yes, it does matter if my knife is going to hold that sharp edge for any length of time, or if the extra-fine angle caused by the chisel grind is going to cause my edge to chip, snap, or roll
if a chisel grind was so great, everyone would use it
there must be some major downside.
Sharpen one side on the 40 degree setting(the side with the scallops), on the corners of the rods, and the other side on the 30 degree setting, also on the corners. A 3:1 ratio should be good. 3 strokes on the scalloped side for every 1 stroke on the non scalloped side.f15k13 wrote:I think I will carry this knife with the chisel grind on it for a couple of months, to see if the edge retention vs performance tradeoff is worth it.
so far this knife has passed through every material I have put it against as if it were butter. I haven't been chopping wood with it or anything, but it feels like it's doing better than any of my other knives. That includes my only other spyderco, the Tenacious. (I'm new to spyderco's and on a budget, but everyone starts somewhere, right?) I assume the difference is the fact that the shape of this blade works really really well with the smaller edge angle that the chisel grind allows/creates.
I guess if I'm going to be keeping this grind for a while, I'm going to need to know how to go about sharpening it on the 204 sharpmaker. Unfortunately I have no other sharpening tools, so I'll have to use the sharpmaker alone if possable.
the rest of the internet says if you touch the flat side of the blade to a sharpening stone it must be flat, or else you end up putting a really tiny micro-bevel on the blade, causing the knife to perform differently.chuck_roxas45 wrote:Sharpen one side on the 40 degree setting(the side with the scallops), on the corners of the rods, and the other side on the 30 degree setting, also on the corners. A 3:1 ratio should be good. 3 strokes on the scalloped side for every 1 stroke on the non scalloped side.
I believe Emerson talks about the difference between the chisel GRIND and the chisel EDGE. What OP mentioned would be a chisel edge. And I agree, a microbevel forming should not hurt it at all. Think about it, most people use somewhere around a forty degree edge. The only thing I could see it really "hurting" would be if you were doing very fine woodwork and you needed that specific angle that the chisel edge allows. But then, you probably wouldn't have a combo edge :PBlerv wrote:Typically the definition of chisel grind indicates the primary bevel, not the secondary bevel. If this was the case one side of your hawkbill would be completely flat, the other ground appropriately.
It's going to be difficult bordering on impossible to to sharpen your knife without putting a mild microbevel on it due to the hollow-grind. While some might disagree I think the more important thing is to control how much angle you are putting on it and use very light strokes. Focus on getting it sharp and getting rid of the burr.
For me I mostly work on getting serrated knives functionally sharp. A couple passes on each tooth then a few passes on the back as Chuck mentioned. Geometry will keep the knife cutting long before most plain edges would be deemed "dull".
Sounds like it was just ground a bit too obtuse. You can keep working at it with the sharpmaker and it should eventually get to the right angle, unfortunately the stones are not really meant for much metal removal and this could take awhile. Likewise you could just adjust the angle of the blade as you sharpen to get it to match that bevel. Considering it's ground on one side the overall edge angle is still probably more acute than normal knives, even if the ground edge seems to be at a higher angle.f15k13 wrote:after attempting to sharpen the ground side at 40°, using a marker to see where I was sharpening, I'm not hitting the sharp edge at all, just the corners
should I use the sharpmaker to cut off the angles, I think that is called a back bevel?
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