Spyderco Forums

I've never seen one. The likely reason is because leather doesn't hold up in wet environments--exactly what the Rock Salt is intended for. With that said, however, I'm sure any custom leathersmith could work one up for you.

I'm sure Brad Southard (Tricod), Steve Rice (STR), or Tom Krein could point you in the right direction. Steve has his own sub-forum at BF. Tom is very popular around here with his regrinds (as well as his TK-series knives), and Brad makes some pretty nice stuff.

Not that I know of. the Tek-Lok on my Street Beat sheath bolts directly to the sheath. I've not heard of a U-shaped locking piece (although I'm sure I totally understand what exactly you're talking about).

Very nice mod. I quite like it!

That doesn't quite sound normal to me. Perhaps you should shoot Charlynn an E-mail.

Congrats! That means you've been using it. :D

C'mon clovisc, you know you should get the H-1 Ladybug! If I'm not mistaken, the Bug is made of some sort of inexpensive Chinese steel, so I don't imagine it being extremely rust resistant.

Very nice, Tom! That looks like the color of the E4W. Is it close? I always wonder if the ZDP, like on the thin bladed stretch, is more prone to breaking than VG10. I am sure it is not a big problem. Usually the harder the steel the more brittle the steel? Maybe I am totally wrong. I love the Blue F...

Happy Birthday, Arend! What are you carrying today?

Exactly the info I need. Thanks, Roman!

Since I sharpen freehand, pretty much all of my Spydies (except the Kiwi, which is my light use dress knife) are slightly convexed.

I know some people here deliberately convex their knives. I recall one guy who convexed a BG-42 Millie. It looks quite nice.

RIOT,

Yes, Tasmans all have jimping. As far as I can tell, jimping was left off the H-1 Spyderhawks simply because the "original" Spyderhawks were sans jimping.

Oh, and I'm batcrap crazy about this knife! Once again, thank you Sal! :D

Very nice pictures of your very nice collection, Dennis! As for thoughts about CE, I don't really like it. My primary reason is the lopsided grind on the PE section due to the entire blade being chisel ground for the serrations. I just can't deal with it. :p The way I see it is; I'd rather carry ano...

Mine came today! I totally love this thing! Again, thank you, Sal, for greasing the squeaky wheel that is this forum. :D On a side note, I am very pleasantly surprised to report that the clips on both of my H-1 Spyderhawks are nicely bent at the top (rather than being flat like a bunch of Ti clips h...

Firstly, I seem to recall a forum that does not allow price checks. If that place is here, I apologize and POOF this is gone. Anyway, I have the opportunity to buy a mint/near mint SE Jot Singh Khalsa for $120. I'm not sure about the box, as I haven't seen it. So, should I buy it? Thanks guys (and g...

Ahhh, my shredded/frayed right-front pocket of my jeans simply matches the shredded/frayed bottoms! :p So far, my 5.11 pants are holding up well with their reinforced pocket edges. You wanna carry a lot of Spydies? Get some of these! If you wanted to, you could carry 10--and that's with the back poc...

I've sent a Tasman into Golden for a sharpening (its edge was destroyed--embarrassing). When it came back all sharp and buffed, I noticed that while it still scratched, the scratches weren't nearly as deep. Perhaps you could send it to Golden with a note asking for a buffing only.

It's stainless. We don't really know what specific grade though. I've found that they will sometimes develop surface rust, but almost never pit. Basically, you don't have to worry about it unless it's been submerged in salt water, or something similar.

I've heard that WD-40 is a good cleaner/restorer for G10. I've not actually tried it myself, however.

I like them on H-1 blades, especially hawkbills. Otherwise, I prefer PE.

Heck, I've found that a truly sharp PE will cleanly cut most breads. I still contend that steak knives and kitchen knives are often serrated because most people don't like to sharpen them.