Spyderco Forums

It sounds like you haven't had much experience with Spyderco's compression lock. :rolleyes:

After a few days I also rubbed the blade with some fine steel wool to lighten up the patina just a little. It was a more silvery gray when I finished. It also continues to darken and develop more "character" each time I use it on food. Very pleased that there is no sign at all of any rust ...

They make this elastic bandaging material called Koban that is very helpful for applying pressure to knife lacerations. First you apply gauze or whatever and then strap it on with the Koban. I first became acquainted with it when getting stitches in the ER for a knife cut. It worked so well that I g...

I've been very impressed by M390 (in the Mule) and it's quickly become one of my favorite stainless steels. I just like the edge it takes and I find it fairly easy to sharpen and it has excellent edge retention. Looking forward to seeing it next year in my favorite folder (the Para 2). I'm also enjo...

The lockback is strong but I dont like the small amount of flex they have when you do a hard push cut. Exactly what I was thinking. I do a lot of hard push cutting through materials like leather, rubber, etc against a cutting board and I push down very hard against the board with the knife as I'm c...

Just to clarify my previous comment: I shop wherever I can get the best price and service. For regular production models that is CS, sometimes (as in new Sprints) that is some other place.

Blue locktite is designed to not be so strong so you can still easily take it apart. That's why blue locktite is recommended here.

Thanks for the excellent photos. Very interesting design and great quality workmanship on this knife. (OT: If I might make a suggestion for the future, it would be helpful if you could resize photos down a bit in future posts. That way the photos won't cause your post to be significantly wider than ...

I use CS a lot and like them but one thing I've noticed recently is that they seem to have changed their pricing policy on most new sprint run knives. They used to discount them by about 35% or more, but lately they have only been discounting them by about 25%. Regular production models are still ge...

I prefer the best performing materials and workmanship, regardless of country of origin. That said, 20CP is excellent and it's great to have another US company producing great blade steels. .

Who knows . . . ? It it's just drawings, perhaps nothing has yet been set in stone. I suspect that whatever they decide to do will be an evolutionary improvement, much as the Para 2 was an improvement over the original.

I would love to see a Military 2 that is essentially just a larger version of the Para 2.

There is a blue G10 Para 2 dealer exclusive coming next year. The steel will be M390 which is also a really great powdered metal blade steel made in Austria. Should be a fantastic version and they are still taking pre-orders for this one at the Bento Box Shop. I love the light Gray G10 though and do...

They probably go in and out of stock at the outlet store just like they do at the dealers. But at some point, probably soon, the flow will stop completely and prices will probably start to rise on the secondary market, just like they did with the S90V version, except they probably won't go quite as ...

I cannot tell you about knife center. I saw prices vary between $140 and $170. This is what I remember seeing as well. I purchased several of them as I really like the knife and the steel, which I think is at least the equal to (and possibly even slightly better than) S90V. I got two for ~$170 each...

They were in stock at Howes for a few hours after it was mentioned in this thread but were sold out when I checked again the following morning. They probably only had a few of them. I wonder how long they will keep trickling out to the dealers like this.

I really like the gray color on any knife but especially on the carbon steel Caly sprint where I think it blends very nicely with the patina that will develop on the blade. Plus G10 is hard to beat as a practical, strong, grippy and tough scale material.

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser with a bit of liquid dish soap makes mine look brand new again in a matter of seconds, literally. It even works without soap sometimes.

Very easy. I just immersed the blade in a glass of regular white vinegar for about 30 minutes or so and then washed it off. The bevel was dark until I stropped it. After that, I put some Tuff-Glide on the tang in the pivot area which restored smooth opening and closing action.

I decided to force a patina on mine figuring I could always polish it off if I didn't like the way it came out. But I was pretty happy with the way it came out. A natural patina should continue to develop over it.