Spyderco Forums

Fireman wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 24, 2024 10:21 pm

Did you bring the spine down or the belly up or both?

I took the spine down just a tiny bit. Mostly I brought the edge up to meet it. There is still a small flat at the very point.

It is also possible that the rust you see is from surface contamination from the grinder. If they ground a non-stainless blade before grinding your stainless blade, particles of the non-stainless steel can be transferred from the grinding belt or wheel and lodge in the surface scratches on the stain...

Cutting out caulking to replace it. Working between a countertop backsplash and a sheetrock wall, like I've done a hundred times with other Mules. I wasn't prying, but I must have put too much lateral pressure on it having my fingers between the handle and the wall.

I may take a little more of the belly out toward the tip, but that's what it looks like now.

Fireman wrote: ↑

Sat Feb 24, 2024 1:10 am

Yablanowitz, I have a DMT 80 grit diamond plate but it weighs like 3 lbs. want to see if I can reprofile that tip for you?

I'm actually halfway there already, and I have some SiC belts ordered for my 1 x 30 belt sander which should take care of the rest. Thanks anyway.

Also, for giggles, I tried to see if I could use my hardest waterstones to do anything, maybe polish, or rid myself of some of the toothiness. As expected, absolutely not. Don't even bother. I got a nice mirror polish from my Shapton Kuromaku 2k. It seemed to get a lot of the micro-chipping out as ...

I've seen pristine PIGs fetch $1200 to $1500 at auction. It took me 15 years, but I picked up a plain and a serrated for about $800 total. The PE seem to be less common than the SE.

It is certainly a broken lockbar. The biggest issues with repairing the knife are: 1) A new lockbar will have to be made. There is virtually no chance that anyone will have one for a model that old, and even less chance that a new one will fit. 2) Pinned stainless knives have to be re-pinned and com...

As long as you didn't stick the knife in while you were heating the sheath, you should be fine.

I do not believe that piece was ever a part of that knife. I'm reasonably familiar with the Police Model, and the only thing I know of that could produce the problem I see in those pictures is a broken lockbar. Since the knife is pinned together, taking it apart is not easy, and even if you got it a...

I've been carrying one for a few days, using it like I usually do a new Mule. I have not succeded in getting it shaving sharp, but got it to an acceptable working edge which holds up very well. It does seem to be a tad fragile for my normal use, though. https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/kk28/y...

I've been carrying one for a few days, using it like I usually do a new Mule. I have not succeded in getting it shaving sharp, but got it to an acceptable working edge which holds up very well. It does seem to be a tad fragile for my normal use, though. https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/kk28/ya...

The pricing has definitely made me slow down. When I got into Spydercos you could get.... When I got into Spyderco, a month's rent including utilities and insurance was averaging $400, and gasolne was about $1.79 per gallon. Now that total is over $1000, I no longer have a landline or home internet...

The knife looks legit to me, but I'm no expert on the PM2. The blade looks like the previous owner ground out a big chip near the ricasso.

My guess would be fatigued steel at the edge from factory sharpening. I've beat the heck out of my S110V Military, including using for drywall repair work. Sharpen it and go on about your business.

And while I've got the microphone, another question: Let's say you do manage to get the ceramic hair-shaving sharp. Does it hold that edge well (ie, at least as good as a quality steel), or does it quickly fracture back down to a long-lasting (but duller) edge that it can actually hold? I guess wha...

Now you tell me. Mine won't shave, but I have put a useable edge on it using nothing more than my DMT Diafolds and patience. It took a few hours, but I spent half an hour carving hardwood with no edge degradation.

Will I destroy my diamonds on this blunt piece of ceramic? I have no clue. Should I even try? The diamonds are far harder than this ceramic could possibly be. The matrix holding those diamonds is not. If you trust the abrasive to do the job in its own time, use VERY light pressure and take your tim...

Dane wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 14, 2024 7:58 am

Whats is hardness of those mules?

Harder than any steel and some ceramics. It would likely go off the top of the Rockwell C scale if it could be Rockwell tested.

I received mine yesterday. Opened one box, took out the knife and felt the edge. It felt quite dull, so I tried cutting the cardboard shipping box, which it did cleanly. When I got home and got it cord wrapped I tried whittling a bit on a hardwood project I had laying around. It worked better than I...