Spyderco Forums

Wow! Great read. Thanks for the effort. I haven't been carrying my Manix XL but need to restart after your tests.

I wonder how a Tuff would fair in your test?

The only knife that is as good of a value as the Para2 would probably be the Manix2. I got a Para2 in CTS204P for $150. :eek: Whoa! No other maker can beat that. If you must compare a Sebenza to a Para2 you can't leave out the compression lock vs the frame lock. Pure opinion, but it is no contest f...

Using the recent K2 as an example, I found that I learned much about the knife from all 4 who received knives from Sal (as they all talked about different aspects of the knife) and from the at least two I read by those who purchased the knife. As for cutting miles of cardboard and rope, I wish I had...

I joined a month or so after my father passed away...trying to fill a void I guess. That I am aware of, we were the only two in the family who had this thing for knives. Everyone else thought we were a bit "unusual." Now it is only me and I feel very fortunate to have found this place. And...

[...] So what exactly is happening to my edge during this process and the disadvantage of me doing this? I don't see anything which would strictly cause a problem, are you not getting high sharpness as a result? It gets plenty sharp. You have mentioned in the past to avoid burr formation in the fir...

Cliff - so I guess my problem is with the coarse stones. Used to set bevel after factory edge is scraped off but I will invariably form a lot of burr (been using Atoma 140 or 400 for this). After the coarse stones I swipe the edge in some wood to deburr. From shapton 1k on, I use a 10x loope to chec...

I assume that it is true that not all polished edges have a rounded apex? They don't need to no. If they should have one depends on what exactly you want the edge to do well. An edge which is rounded over has less cutting ability, almost no slicing ability specifically but has improved durability a...

I thought I read somewhere that Spyderco was one of the best places to work in Colorado or something like that. At least I could say I have a cool boss there (and hopefully get employee discount). He can pay me in tickets to be redeemed at the SFO.

Really enjoyed your review and pics! I also wish edges were a little smoother.

Jim - what do you feel 4V brings to the table? From some older threads, I gather it would be less tough but more edge retention compared to 3V. Similar to Cruwear?

3rdGenRigger wrote:

WorkingEdge wrote:I don't recall any coated spyderco knives. Just as well for me as I prefer my blades naked : )

You mean other than the current DLC coated models like the black bladed Millie, PM2, Manix2, etc.? I also prefer my blades uncoated.

I guess best to just ignore me as I forgot all about those!

I don't recall any coated spyderco knives. Just as well for me as I prefer my blades naked : )

that is beautiful!
jealous of your skills.

I've been tempted in the past to make locks smoother in the past with many a knife...glad I left all of them alone. They have a way of breaking in nicely, at least Spydercos anyway.

Just seeking clarification. I would think it should be rated as how much torque is required to defeat a lock. For instance, 200 pounds 3 inches away from the pivot is equal to 600 pounds 1 inch from the pivot. Is there a link for these values, Blerv?

The reason I respect Sal isn't really because of the knives, though I do appreciate the innovations (folding clipit, Sharpmaker, locks, serration patterns, etc.) it is more to do with how he acts. In order to really appreciate this you just need to do something like it, be in a position where what ...

Cliff - if you do modify the shape of the blade, I hope you leave the part with your name on it alone. That's got to be pretty cool especially coming from a company and guy you respect, even if you in general are not sentimental towards knives. I recall the knife you had some attachment to was also ...

Laethageal - exactly regarding aesthetics. May have to sacrifice a lesser knife in the name of experimentation. Even if my hands are steady enough to do the metal removal, still concerned about making the finish appear consistent with the current stone wash.

Cliff - can you give an example of how many passses on the UF you make to set a microbevel and how much force you are using (i.e. is it just the weight of the blade or are you applying additional pressure)?

I'm thinking about doing something to the edge of the K2 to make it less sharp...I think putting a Dremel to it may be a bad idea but it hasn't stopped me about considering it anyways.
If this sounds like a stupid idea, please somebody speak up : )