Spyderco Forums

Thats exactly what i want to do, tap on my knife with a hammer vs just slightly tightening the pivot screw. What happens when you accidentally tap it too much and overtighten? Then you get to deal with a stiff blade. Simply 'pry' the handle scale a bit. This trick was from old balisong enthusiasts ...

Cliff, have you chanced to test other brand's 8Cr? A YT I saw (ruslankiyasov) showed a tenacious that still slice copier paper after 70 or so cutting rope, while an Enlan EL02 not able to do the same after merely 30 cuts. Both are 8Cr13MoV. I think slicing paper has more to do with actual apex sharp...

A pinned construction can be tightened back by tapping it gently with small hammer. As said above, people have been fine with pinned construction for a long time. A lot of traditionals are pinned, and SAK too. People have been whittling wood (traditionals) and prying open stuck can lid (SAK screwdri...

Welcome and enjoy the best addiction! :D

That's a good one! :D

Brock O Lee wrote:While it is possible to unlock it by pushing down and sideways with your thumb on the liner, I also unlock mine by pushing my thumb nail on the side of the liner lock. After a years use, it has become second nature.

This is exactly how I release all linerock and framelock.

I have a lot of 8Cr knives, one is Resilience, live in Indonesia. No issue with rust on blade so far. Since I also use them for food, the blade gets cleaned thoroughly (no oil) an it's working fine. If you're concerned, a wipe with wd40 and spray into hidden parts will prevent most rust I have more ...

I have poorman Millie (Resilience) and found it easy to carry deep in my RFP into the PDA subpocket. My phone/PDA are on belt sheath/pouch where most will not have issue with.

For usage in office, I carry smaller blades, sub 3". Even that, people still freak out sometimes.

I carry the knife clipless, with additional pouch (standard cheap nylon ones) to prevent wear on my pants & keep the knife stays in place (put them all into the PDA in-pocket partition).

Bought exactly the slacks that have this PDA in-pocket partition, problem solved :)

A Tenacious or Resilience might be better :)

Thanks for recomendation. Will look into it in future.

Cliff,

Thanks! That clarifies.

I guess another way of viewing it is getting ok enough steel (8Cr) is to allow continuous touch up (stropping, or light passes on high grit) to improve skill while being able to afford different designs and profiles (which has the 10x factor).
How about that :D

RichardJ test knife that were tested by Unit and others (over at Bladeforums) was ground this way too. I suggest test it out first. If inclusive angle is not too thin, I don't see why it should chip.

Me2, Cliff, Thanks for trying to make it understandable ;) Me2, in that particular corrugated cardboard test, with the same sharpening medium & angle, 8Cr did not perform much different from S30V. Steeling S30V was mentioned but not 8Cr, does it mean the 8Cr was not restored by steeling? It migh...

Nobody is saying that. :D Conclusion from me2 post saying 8Cr held up against S30V, emphasis added ;) If the steel used in the Meadowlark is the same as the steel used in my old Cara Cara, then the edge retention you describe (very low) means something is wrong. I've compared my Cara Cara to severa...

I am as confused as ever. Does it mean no point in getting 'supersteel'?

The highest I've gone with were 440C (BM balisong) and old CS AUS8A. That was before I can sharpen as I do today. Does it mean my EDC today of 8Cr13MoV should last as long as S30V given the right sharpening?

Does it mean the Chinese ones are also lasered?

Cliff,

Are you saying that 8Cr is actually composed to last for a while cutting cardboard? What a relief

So if a particularly knife doesn't do well, HT or the sharpening are the most probable causes?

Have tried various locks : Frame lock, Liner lock, Axis, Back Lock (incl, mid lock etc) and Tri-ad. Like the Tri-a best: fully ambidextrous, keeping blade closed by spring tension that will pull back the blade if opened partially, none of the "play" associated with normal back lock. Lastly...

I also found the zip tie to be more consistent especially if you have loose pockets. The Emerson hook works best in jeans, but the zip tie being wider than the blade gives it more to snag on coming out. I even took a shot at making a semi-permanent metal hook, which was really ugly but worked fanta...