Spyderco Forums

I've loved the Super Blue mule. It'll be even better in a folding knife for EDC tasks. Can't wait for this one to be released.

Hole diameter that I got was 0.068". Closest taps are 2-56, which requires a hole 0.005" larger and 1-72, which requires a hole 0.005" smaller.

I'll admit that I do it every once in a while. Fun to flick it out and hear a satisfying "clack" of the open blade.

My current process is: 1. Brown medium stones 2. White fine stones 3. Cardboard 4. Newspaper 5. Old leather belt with Formax "Mirco Fine Honing Compound" I freehand sharpen with a setup I made and then strop with 3-5. Do you guys think it's a lack of skill? I'm easily able to get to newspa...

Did you try to loosen the pivot screw a little? I think it's under the clip.

I was procrastinating and came across a really cool angle to take some photos of my Military and Para 2. Which ones out of this set look the best? http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5557039724_2061c55b1a_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5011/5557037962_d083de498a_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flick...

I've been looking for a good wood processing knife and came across Fehrman Knives. I'm very curious about 3V's performance. Anyone use their blades?

Initially sticky lockbar, but it wore in and it operates smoothly now. Blade opening is smooth as glass. Just a little bit of side to side play, but I don't mind it. Blade it a little to the right, don't mind it either. July '10 run.

tecstrat wrote:That seems like a reasonable explanation. Is it a bad thing?

No, everything has to have gaps in order to move, even if the gap is very tight, there still are gaps.

My guess is that it's inherent to the design. When you put pressure on the blade, it exerts force towards the back of the knife. That would then move the lock bar and push against the lock spring holder and cause a gap, resulting in flex?

So I'll have to anneal the stock before working with it? I just drew the pattern on it and cut it out.

Right now, I'm cutting my blanks out with a Dremel and a metal cutting wheel. While it works, it's rather slow and isn't really accurate, so I usually cut to plus tolerances and sand down from there. Are there any ways that are easier to cut out the blanks that isn't water jetting, EDMing, Laser cut...

couple things hold me back on one, no liners. and no tip up. tip up is the way i carry all my folders and wont buy a knife with tip down only carry. size is another issue, id probubly make a sheath if i had one. lastly i already have a large folder that is in this category pou. zt 0300. There are l...

I've always drew my knives with a pinch grip. With Spydercos I prefer tip down for large blades and smaller blades tip up. Smaller blades go in my front right pocket so the thumb ramp can get in the way. Larger blades, like the Military go in my right rear pocket. neither of them can inadvertently o...

Military, the knife I pull out first when I need one. Able to stretch into food prep, box cutting, or other miscellaneous tasks.

I know this might be a little off topic, but do you think Halpern Titanium could machine me anodized textured titanium scales for my cobalt special mule that im planning on getting and one of my delicas aswell? Btw thats one of the nicest patinas Ive seen yet. The titanium scales would fit any mule...

Whenever I've sharpened using the sharpmaker's holes, I can't seem to hit the tip. The primary part of the edge is sharp, but the tip is pretty blunt (sharp for non knife people :p ). What I mean by tip is the front 1" - 1.25" edge.

I'd like whatever finish they do on the Military clips. It seems to last forever.

That's because he's measuring towards the front. Maybe a measurement just behind the thumbhole will be closer to the blade stock thickness. For the glue, try rubbing alcohol on cloth. I'm afraid to recommend acetone because it might dissolve the face if it's plastic. I think the points on it were u...

I got 372 on my milie after testing again and 369-370 on my Para 2