Spyderco Forums

Welcome, KazzCreative! You made an excellent choice in the Delica. If you examine the two Delicas you have, side by side, compare the spine thickness and taper. This explains a significant part of why the flat ground model cuts better and the saber ground model is stronger near the tip.

Nothing wrong with being new and eager to learn. To the question about making the edge toothy with the diamond or CBN rods AFTER sharpening, I honestly don't know because I've never tried this. It sounds horrible to me, but a maker called Grayman performs a similar sequence on their knives and some ...

Okay, thanks for pointing me to the other thread. Looks like some CQI is needed on the Mantra bearings.

The Caly is a great example of a knife without any washers or bearings, a testament to not even needing washers or bearings when fit and finish is that we'll done. Quite possibly the smoothest knife I've ever had. I do prefer PB over bearings any day though. Bearings are just more moving parts wher...

What gets worse?

Jazz wrote:Only makes perfect sense to go forward AND backward to get both sides of the scallops. I discovered that early in my serrations sharpening.

Same here. I can't go slowly enough to evenly get both front and rear of scallops equally sharp by only pulling.

And that reminds me of a related question I had for you regarding Spyder-Edges and Combo-Edges: If Spyderco made a folder (regardless of what steel-type was used) that was a locking blade, and, had a plain edge front, and Spyder-edge back, would you and others like that? Picture in your mind someth...

Eventually, every blade user is very well served by developing freehand sharpening skills. This allows one to maintain an edge even in the absence of one's favorite guided system. That said, the 204 Sharpmaker is my favorite setup for maintenance due to its versatility. It can sharpen plain and serr...

Yes to regular cleaning/drying, followed by lubrication. I use and like Nano-Oil, but any light non-drying oil will work.

Mic drop! The man has spoken.

A fuller in the "center" I take to mean midway between edge and spine. If this is what you meant, the blade would need to be very thick to not have the fuller become a hole, and cutting geometry would suffer thereby. This is why fullers are typically near the spine of the blade.

My first pocket knife was a Henckels two-blade penknife with jiggled bone scales in circa 1968. I still have it; it's a fine dress knife to this day. My guess is that abandoning folders was a business decision because of better margins on kitchen cutlery.

This brings up a question I have had. Are there any known methods of how to somehow vent or screen off the energy in these types of storms, to lessen their impact, or is that not yet feasible? Secondly, what are some good ways to make a typhoon and monsoon resistant shelter? To your second question...

The straight spine has a practical benefit as well as the aesthetic appeal. It works better when cutting edge out in a tight spot, particularly with the spine on a flat surface, such as cutting synthetic banding off a box or a bunk of lumber.

Do we know how LC200N fares in Spyderedge? A Golden-made PM2 Salt in SE would be fantastic.

M390 PM2

Nope. Was never even tempted when younger. It always seemed an unacceptable risk for no reward.

I've done it for myself, but I don't do it for others. A Dremel and some patience is all it takes.

What makes that wee bit of extra edge so useful to you guys? I'm not seeing it. I like the knife a lot. It could just be better in my opinion. I really like the Delicas ricasso amount. Perfect. I'll get used to this knife - I'll have to once I mod it. I find the edge right by the handle to be very ...

My vote is for modding a standard Endura trainer with a wave hook, rather than blunting a live blade. My reasoning is that you'll need to remove steel to the top of the saber grind to get an edge as thick as what comes on a trainer. Even a severely dulled live blade is vastly more dangerous than a t...