Spyderco Forums

I saw that the *Spyderco Solo* AO05, was AUS-10, but the Solo3 is a decade earlier IIRC... (catalog PDF says 1995) I found an expired auction page that claimed the blade was AUS-8, but that's pretty weak "evidence".

I'd bet that the reason you can't tighten the pivot farther is that the pivot bolt is bottomed out, if the blade is centered when closed and doesn't have side-play when locked open I'd just leave it alone. By "bottomed out" I mean that the pivot axle (with a female thread) is either a bit ...

...Just gave a Pingo in orange as a Father's day gift to my not-quite Father in law... the criteria were; easy to find if dropped, tough steel, easy pocketability, ambidexterous opening (and lock/unlock, if available) and made in USA for under $100. So I bombed on the made in USA part :P but the Man...

Anyone out there remember what steel was used in the Solo 3 (FRN handle/lightweight version)?

It takes a very respectable edge, despite the thick-ish grind and awkward sharpening access on the "lobe" side of the blade.

Well, I also decided to get one of these before they're all gone... then found this thread :D I've already used blue #2 in Japanese kitchen knives that I own, so the properties of the Hitachi blue series steels are no mystery to me, the mystery is *why* are they making these super blue knives a limi...

RadioactiveSpyder wrote:Number 167s come from New Graham Knives.

now that I look at the rest of the auction pictures (I was focused on the knife initially) there's a price sticker on the box from that seller!

Thanks for the advice tvenuto. I guess I need to read up on re-profiling the edge... I understand that the original geometry is too extreme/delicate for the s30v. Ironically, I had to do the exact opposite (from micro bevel to scandi) re-work on an Iisakki Jarvenpaa utility/carver, that knife certai...

Thanks all, I had known about forum editions, but not the collectors' club... the knife in question is # 167. I was actually buying this as a user, but I'd hate to mess this relatively more collectible knife up by re-beveling it! Maybe I need to find someone who will give it a nice case to live in, ...

Does anyone know what group or shop got numbered Nilakkas?

It looks like the one I have seen (and will likely own soon) is the original blade grind sans secondary bevel.

Thanks in advance for any info.

If you want to lube the bearings with something that will attract *less* grit and gunk, you may want to try moly paste. Molybdenum disulfide is a terrific metal to metal lube and usually the paste form has less of a grease component than other thick bodied lubes, it also works great on non-bb blade ...

We do have CLR. Not sure what's in it though, so I'm hesitant to put it in my knife in case it reacts with something, ruins the finish, dissolves the nylon(?) bearing cage, or who knows. I've never used it and really don't know anything about it. CLR contains acids, hence the great performance remo...