Spyderco Forums

catamount wrote:The Sage is C123CFP on the dealer price sheet.

Hehe, that has a nice ring to it...

The Deacon wrote: Acronym for Yet Another Mule Team Thread perchance? :D

Somebody give this man a prize!

This one's actually kinda funny... I was looking at the second Mule I received today (which I'm holding for my brother) and I noticed a couple of small tears in the poly bag it's packed in. http://lh3.google.com/JacksonKnives/R5a68j6C4gI/AAAAAAAAAnU/YIJmlKd0Zgo/s800/DSCF2852-1.JPG Then I realized th...

Wahoooo :) You ROCK, Sal! :cool: Couple of good places to look for handle material and hardware: http://www.mcmaster.com http://www.masecraftsupply.com http://www.texasknife.com Don't forget that respirator when working those handle materials! I've had lots of luck with Tracy Mickley at USA knife m...

How does the Spyderco 306UF compare to the Shapton GlassStones (also ceramic)? Compared to the Shaptons... they won't cost you an arm and a leg. Over at Badger&Blade , there are a few hone-heads who'll tell you that the Shaptons are the cat's meow, and I'm sure that plenty of woodworkers would ...

Glad to hear that you're on the mend, brother!
(Though I find it rather strange, a bit surreal even, that this is the first place I've heard about this incident, given that I've talked to Dad and Sister several times over the past week...)

I've sacrificed a few DMT stones turning fines into ultra fines before we made them. I used them to sharpen my straight razors when I was shaving with one. The fine is "as fired". The new 3 X 8 is waiting on the leather case. Shouldn't be too long. It's a very nice stone, IMO. sal Sal, th...

butch wrote:this is great info and i too would like more as i made a razor and now plan on tring to make a 2nd + learn how to make it as sharp as it should be

Butch, got any pics of your razors? Your knives look great!

I'll stick to CPM steels, 'cause I've got easy access to the data : CPM 15V -- Extremely high wear resistance, low toughness. CPM M4 -- moderate toughness and wear resistance, a steel that looks like it might work in a production line. CPM 3V -- Extremely high toughness, low wear resistance. If ther...

The Sage sounds very interesting. Are there any pictures available? I whole-heartedly agree with Deacon and merciful. I honestly think there isn't a better opening system out there. I've been so spoiled by the Spyderhole (especially the 14mm ones), I have a hard time using anything else! Sal has sa...

I've got a CF Caly3, but I've been tempted to go for the UKPK because it doesn't have the steel liners.

Does anyone know if the Urban will be linerless as well?

I guess I'm just having a hard time understanding why it's so much more difficult to make a set of scales for each mule than it is to switch the scales every time you want to use a different steel. I suppose it would make the whole "scientific testing" thing more accurate, as you would hav...

I have absolutely zero experience in making knives or scales, but it seems to me as though barrel screws would be an excellent option for a fast modular system. Maybe I'm over-simplifying it, and it wouldn't work at all. :o Not sure exactly what fastener you're referring to, but it sounds just fine...

This is the most exciting factory project I've heard about in a long time. I've always loved the way that Spyderco pays tribute to the custom makers, but this is just awesome. Any chance of a Ken Onion Speed-Safe? C'mon, Sal, you know you want to... Also, a separate Framelock would be nice to make t...

Most abrasives are measured by the grit size used in the matrix. Our ceramic doesn 't work that way. Grit size is constant. . . . Our fine stone is fine. Our extra fine is a surface ground fine. Sal, if the only difference between the fine and ultra fine is in the surface finish, are those users wh...

I'm gonna say C62-Navigator.
See 1998 on Ted's list.

Has anyone measured/fitted the holes in the tang for pins or other fasteners? Epoxy on its own will probably be just fine for a beater-blade, but I usually add pins anyway.

There are two ways to go about these thing, in my experience. Either you seek out all the other listings fro the last few months and then decide how much above or below the average you're willing to spend (which probably depends on whether you're planning to re-sell in the near future, but that does...

Don't forget the old Tufram aluminium... (Or is "almite" basically the same thing?)

Good grief, you people rock.