Spyderco Forums

Whatever the handle material, I would like it stiff, impervious to water and oil, and not easily wear to the point the blade and handle flop around. G10 or CF might be good?

I've never tried a thicker razor but I like how they look. I'd think the main thing that would matter with a straight razor in terms of cutting ability would be how thick it was behind the edge. I'm not sure why 1/2 hollow vs full hollow would make a difference in that case. Maybe it lets you follo...

From what I've read, there seems to be two popular interpretations when describing the degree of hollow grind. 1. Depth of the hollow only, with no regard to where on the blade the hollow starts, whether its at the apex or higher up the blade. 2. How high above the apex the "hollow" starts...

I'll take a 15v N5, maybe several.

I think I'm starting to favor the thick & heavier razor grinds, no thinner than 1/2 hollow. They say the thinner grinds get sharper and shave closer, but I haven't found that to be the case. Maybe my sharpening skills aren't there yet. As for sharpening/honing/stropping, the thicker blades are l...

Thickest(L) to thinnest(R), Colling in the middle.

I doubt I would buy any stainless steel straight razor.

It also appears to be about a half hollow grind, which is much stiffer than full.
The pipe razor pictured above is about 1/4 hollow.

Vandelay, it looks like your razor has hone wear on the stabilizer. If that's the case, and continues to be honed this way, it will cause future geometry problems, like a heel hook, recurve edge, and tapered toe. A lot of razors come from the factory with the edge inline with the stabilizer, or even...

Very nice! That Colling is a great shaver, I know for sure. It is shaving as well as my best ones at the moment. I'm guessing the harder steel was giving me problems at first, but may have it sorted out now. I won't know for sure though until more shaves and taking it back to the stones a few times...

A couple of my favorite razors, one is new, one is about 150 years old.
The new one is still being evaluated.

Here's a couple of my favorite razors. One is new, one is about 150 years old. One has a straight edge, one curved. The one thing they have in common, both are capable of delivering close smooth shaves. Glad to hear this project is moving forward. I hope Spyderco makes both these styles. https://i.p...

After that I had to put a new edge on. I used a Shapton Kuromaku 2k to set the new bevel, then continued to sharpen it on a 5k and 8k, and finished on a strop loaded with green compound until it passed the Hanging Hair Test. There's loads of people who will say it's nothing like sharpening a knife....

I don't understand the problem people have with mitchell's.
It's so much better than proraso for me, there's no comparison, well worth the extra couple minutes it takes to whip it up.

The C, W, and Cr contents have my attention.
It's about time someone focused on the toughness/hardness/edge retention combo without limiting it with corrosion resistance.
Are any knives being made?

Never dyed a handle before today. The mint delica and white n5 had to go.
Now they're black and dark navy blue.

kennbr34 wrote: ↑

Tue Dec 13, 2022 9:34 pm

End results:

Nice rescue.
As for steel, my opinion is it should respond favorably to bare leather stropping.

Keep your jacket and get a Wiggy's insulated vest to wear underneath.
I've had one for almost 20 years with much use and it's still like new.
It and their sleeping bags are among the better purchases I've made in my life.

This would finally give me a good reason to get a UKPK.

At first it’s pretty tedious, especially if the razor isn’t honed properly, but it gets more relaxed with practice. It was 6 months or so before I started consistently getting really good close and comfortable shaves. This was about the time I started getting my shave technique and honing/stropping ...