I used a knife for self defense when I was pretty young. I had neither training nor any sort of tactical or fighting knife. In fact it didn't even have a lock. I don't know any of the guys I knew who murdered people that had any kind of training. They just had the desire to hurt someone and somethin...
Not one of my favorites. The grip is too narrow to use in heavy cutting without causing me cramps in my hands. The looks are pretty bad too IMO. Like all Spydercos it is built well. I believe I ended up giving mine away.
S3, in my case the V Toku does really well between 400 grit to 1000. I usually go with 600 grit to give it a biting edge. It can go way higher easily but I don't really see that much reason to.
I definitely don't recommend to someone new to try adjusting pivots. I think adjusting your hand and then slowing down to deliberately go through the opening process. No auto pilot until you have done it enough to be not only accurate and comfortable but also have developed muscle memory. Also, look...
I had to buy a second. It's a great all around knife with amazing performance and a real sleeper of a knife. It'll outperform most of the very high dollar factory or customs I've been around.
IMO the highest performing pound for pound knives are the K390 Delicas, The Maxamet Natives, or Rex 45 ? The small ones are too small for me to use safely.
I'm with the "In poor taste" group. All anyone here can do is speculate and I don't see any reason for me to do that. None of us here can possibly have the information needed to make close to realistic predictions.
I'm old and retired but even I have better things to do.
No one really seemed interested in solving the question of why that was happening. So much talking past each other and posturing. I've been to worse places but I've never stayed.
Gerber used to do it in the 70's on some. There was a famous maker that used O1 and he chromed his knives. Personally I don't think it's necessary. I couldn't think of any reason I'd want it done to my knives. For me corrosion isn't an issue. If it was I'd deal with it any of a number of ways other ...
I don't believe in trying to tell someone how to use their property but trying to tell me that taking my knives apart to clean or maintain them is necessary will get an argument out of me everytime. I have Spydercos over 20 years old with half of that in my pocket daily that have never needed to be ...
I agree with Araneae . No one here should be advising the OP to return the knife after he had taken it apart and changed the edge/sharpened/stropped the knife. If the knife needs to go back it should be before the above not after. I can't tell if the blade is warped or if it is just the tapering tha...
It's just grind lines. No defects, no carbide tearout or anything to worry about. Use it often and enjoy a knife meant to perform and not just look pretty.
Still a big super blue fan. For cutting and slicing I'll take it anyday over 1095, 5160, W2, O1 etc. I like sharpening most steels but super blue is one of the best and easiest to sharpen up . It's one of several Spydercos I could use the rest of my life if I had to. I'm glad I don't have to though.
I'm all for FRN models. In my experience they are extremely durable and feel great in use. I also appreciate the attempt at keeping costs down on a model that will already have increased costs due to the steel. I'll sure buy one.
JuPaul wrote: ↑ 29 Mar 2021 15:39 Interesting topic. I was a philosophy major once upon a time, and now I have what is probably an unhealthy interest in serial killers and cult leaders. I'm also very interested in understanding what drives people to make the choices they do. After years of reading,...
I like to imagine you pitching the steel concept like this to a room of CPM people wide-eyed and stunned but ultimately as excited as you are I was thinking Magnus Pyke shouting "Science" like in the Thomas Dolby video. :) If I didn't know Larrin better anyways. :D https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V...