Spyderco Forums

Nice work, thanks for taking the time to share your work.

The Southfork is very good, as are the Delica 4, Endura 4, Para II, and the Military. All are FFG which helps a lot. f you have the skill then sharpening to a lower angle will improve their ability to slice.

Great work Chris. I have been using my Spyderco Bushcrafter over the last few days and its a great knife. I like the way you have sculpted the grips to spread the load. Spyderco have done a great job with the grind, this is the first Bushcraft knife that I have got on with.

Nick

Nice work, they both look great Gordon. I'm going to have to try a cord wrap soon.

Nick

Hi All

I used Nick's tutorial as a reference for doing my first Mule - thanks, Nick :)

There's a couple of things I do slightly differently, having done a few scalings now... (don't think this is any criticism of Nick - his work is miles better than mine; just trying to muppet-proof the method ...

This thread is really cool! I'm late tuning in, though.

I have two Mule Team knives (don't even know which ones--I think they might have been the first ones out) but I haven't done a thing with them because, well, I don't have anywhere near the tools (drill press, vice, mostly) to be attempting ...

Does anyone see anything wrong with using Aluminum rod and tube for the pins and lanyard hole? i am thinking this would be easier to sand and machine vs Stainless rod and tube. It would also still be impervious to the elements.
What is your thoughts?

Quickbeam,
what did you use for those large ...

Here are a few more ....

Orange G10 with black liners

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s138/Quickbeam_photo/DSC_1898.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s138/Quickbeam_photo/DSC_1904.jpg

Carbon Fibre

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s138/Quickbeam_photo/DSC_1971.jpg

Black Linen ...

How about an etched Dragonfly?

Nick

I think I'd buy an Opinel and a SAK Soldier, and save up for a Millie :D

Nick

OK, I've edited my original post to widen my interval.

Nick

2221 and 2223

Thanks

Nick

EDIT: I'll change to 2121 and 2323

Nick

I'd go for Desert Ironwood, although it can be expensive. Alternatively, maple is a good hard wood that takes a beating if treated with something like Danish oil and can be picked up very cheaply. It looks good with some black liners.

Regards

Nick

Just file down the brass until its level with the wood, you'll probably want to take some of the wood off too unless scales are very thin.

Nick

The first knives I made were done with quite cheap materials - black liners, maple, 6mm brass pins, 6 mm brass lanyard tube. Once I got the hang of it and was able to get the scales on without any gaps, I moved on to the more expensive woods.


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s138/Quickbeam ...

I'd say that wood scales and brass fittings would probably be easiest to start off with.

Brass is much easier to cut and file than stainless steel. Most woods are easier to saw and shape than micarta, g10 or CF. You still need to be careful about wood dust, especially some varieties, but generally ...

What you needed here was something made from D2. All of my D2 knives feel really toothy and chomp through fabrics. At the other end of the spectrum I've found are steels like 52100, which can be shaving sharp but can't cut through cloth.

Regards

Nick

I made a new sheath for the DI Mule, here's a couple of quick photos...





Thanks for looking.

Nick

One handed. The pivot on mine was quite loose out of the box. I compress the lock and the blade closes part way by gravity.

Nick

450 please!

Thanks

Nick

EDIT 444 is taken so I'll go for 450 instead.