Spyderco Forums

Mine just arrived, and the scales are translucent as the other posters indicate. Great knife, and fortunate I was able to grab one when they became available.

I had a Tenacious that had red Loctite on the pivot screw, and I ended up buying a soldering iron to heat the pivot screw. Worked like a charm.

OP here: I decided to keep the knife. After taking it out several times, I realized the side-to-side blade "play" is really minimal (more than the knife just flexing, but something you really have to be looking for to feel), and it's something not worth the hassle of exchanging. (Frankly, ...

I picked up one of the Knifecenter Manix 2 Cruwear sprints, and the one I got is perfectly centered and drops freely, but with slight, but noticeable (for a knife nut), side-to-side blade play when open. I have a number of PM2s where the side-to-side blade play, if any, when open is so slight it fee...

I have a new Tenacious, and when I switched the clip, the clip screws had red thread-locker on them. (I guess the factory didn't get the recent warranty memo....) No problem getting them off. Pivot screw is another matter. It seems from reading various posts is that heat plus firm pressure on the s...

James - Thanks for the confirmation. I guess time to order a soldering iron...

I have a new Tenacious, and when I switched the clip, the clip screws had red thread-locker on them. (I guess the factory didn't get the recent warranty memo....) No problem getting them off. Pivot screw is another matter. It seems from reading various posts is that heat plus firm pressure on the sc...

Thanks for the responses.

I just picked up a Tenacious, and it's a surprisingly nice knife for the price (even if that price has been creeping up as of late...). My question relates to centering: It has the least centered blade of any of my Spyderco's. It favors the non-lock side (say, at 40% if 50% is dead-center), which is...

All - Thanks for all of the comments. It's really helpful to read people discussing pros and cons of different systems. As much as I was tempted to go off the deep end and get a WE Pro 3, and decided to go with the basic KME kit, but added the base, the 100/XX Coarse diamond hone, and a strop with t...

Abbazaba - Thanks for this. Very helpful tips, and I guess if I go with a WE system, it would be the 130 model (which has the Gen 3 clamp). Of course, then the issue is how far down the rabbit hole you go before you get to the Pro Pack III....

elena86 wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 07, 2019 10:02 am

I have both ... WE is the better system no doubt.

Thanks for the feedback. What do you do with the edge nearest to the ricasso on the WE? Any issues clamping the typical FFG Spyderco blade with the WE?

I have a Sharpmaker but am interested in getting a guided/clamp system, and it's down to Wicked Edge (130 model with the Gen 3 clamp) or KME (with the latest clamp, but it's been around for a while). It seems that for knives with no sharpening choil (my Spydercos, and I have way too many of them), I...

Thanks for all the responses. Seems like my clip is normal, and maybe time to do a little bending. I guess I hadn't locked into the fact that the DF2 and Chaparral are made in different factories. The DF2 clip is just about perfect, but then again, it's a tiny, little knife.

Just picked up a Chaparral LW FRN, and really like the knife, particularly the fact that the clip lets the knife ride deep in a pocket. Unfortunately, the knife almost popped out of my pocket after the clip got caught on a coat hem, and at first I thought I may have bent the clip. But the end of the...

The best balance of all the attributes you desire is easily the DLC S30V Para 2. It will be the easiest to sharpen. It will be by far the most corrosion resistant Para 2 produced yet. It will be tough enough. I carried one for years and used it harder than you will, and put an extra thin edge in mi...

Hello - I'm trying to decide which PM2 is going to have the best combination of corrosion resistance and ease of sharpening (which I prefer to do frequently over dealing with a very difficult to sharpen steel). The S30V, S35VN and S110V models are all readily available, but I'd either need to wait f...

Good to hear you got that off the bevel, etc. This is what I like to use for non toxic. Little drop goes a long way. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014QDG2KI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1532360428&sr=8-4&keywords=swan+mineral+oil&dpPl=1&dpID=310z4F6PyhL&ref=plSrch I can...

OP) Cruwear might be more corrosion resistent + have more corrosion resistant properties than others, but in the end it's still a tool steel. Plants can be juicy. I prefer to use my H1 Pac Salt, Tasman Salt, or a Spyderhawk. As suggested: Flitz first, and if that doesn't work then I would sharpen i...

Hello, Would you be able to upload a picture? Be nice to see what you are describing. Also, was the blade coated in anything before use? C OP - No, I didn't coat the blade before using it, because I had read that Cruwear was more corrosion resistant than other non-stainless steels, and was hoping t...