Spyderco Forums

Its a very bad pet peeve of mine too seeing as the only sharpening tool I have is a sharpmaker and its very hard to use on anything else but something that has 40 degrees inclusive or less.

bump

bump

Anybody else have experience while trying to use their Tuff on a sharpmaker or other sharpening system that is set to 40 degrees? I would love to know if it hit the apex of the cutting edge.

I need to know what the degree per side or inclusive edge degree is on the Spyderco Tuff. I am asking this because I want to know if it is 40 degrees or under so I can use it on my Sharpmaker.

Isn't the coin trick flawed in the fact that the stones arent centered on the base so if I place lets say a penny under one side it will make something lets say .5 degrees less but on the other side because it is much farther away it would only make the stone .25 degrees less

The reason I want to reprofile the edge is because I want to actually use my sharpmaker on it. Having a knife that I can't resharpen is a waste in my eyes.

Thanks for the replies guys, has anybody here done sharpening or reprofiling with CPM 3V themselves?

Maybe he meant to say grit. But other people across multiple knife forums say its about the equivalent of 220 grit on the diamond stones.

I actually just found a video of a guy doing just about the EXACT same thing as me, he is taking a Bark River CPM 3V blade and reprofiling the wide edge down using 240 grit sandpaper and a little bit of elbow grease. yRmMCrWRiXY Both our diamonds and CBN are 400 mesh. sal Sal himself says 400 mesh, ...

Do you think the diamond stones would at least make it bearable?

I own a Spyderco Tuff and I am a bit worried about how much abrasion resistance the CPM 3V steel possesses and that it will be very hard to sharpen or reprofile. From what I have learned about the steel is that it has superior strength and abrasion resistance compared to my other VG-10 knives like m...

bump. anybody else know anything about this?

I bought some 3 in 1 oil for rust protection and for lubricating it, anybody else got experience with this stuff?

To me it seems like then the smooth side would be sub par for cleaning it, wouldnt it be better to have another flesh side because it is more rough?

I have recently wanted to start stropping my knives and I have found where I am going to purchase mine from. I am almost certainly going to be getting my strop from stropman.com and I have looked at his HD Compact strop: http://www.stropman.com/HD-Compact-Leather-Strop-HD-Compact.htm which is two si...

I'm going to post this again in the hopes that someone responds to the question this time.

Would baby oil or mineral oil work on the Spyderco Tuff? I want to know which would be good for putting a coating on the blade for corrosion, and which would be good for lubricating the detent or pivot screw.

Would baby oil or mineral oil work on the Spyderco Tuff? I want to know which would be good for putting a coating on the blade for corrosion, and which would be good for lubricating the detent or pivot screw.

I just purchased a Spyderco Tuff, and it has started squeaking and vibrating where the detent touches the blade when opening and closing it and I know that oiling it would probably fix the problem but I don't know how to applicate it or which type of oil to use. I have also seen that the CPM 3V stee...

Hello, I have recently started to ponder what the pros/cons and proper uses would be for blades with a belly vs straight blades like a Wharncliffe. I wonder which would be better for stabbing or prodding and which would be better for slicing.