Spyderco Forums

Donut wrote:Try rubbing the stones together to smooth it out a little bit.

Is it in the center of the flat or closer to the corner?

It's towards the center.

SpyderBite wrote:as to how to get rid of it, no idea. but as for the bump ruining an edge, it wont. i have a sharpener quite similar to the sharpmaker, and it has two bumps my blades run over, and doesnt efffect it at all

Cool, thanks.

On a side note, Sal makes it look SOOOOO easy.

Just received my sharpmaker today and it's awesome. I was able to bring my Superleaf and Endura back to hair shaving sharp.

One of the white rods has a really small bump on one of it's flat sides, I didn't notice it until I used that side and felt the blade running over it.

Dumb question, but is ...

For me it's the FFG Endura 4. Reliable, full flat ground, good steel and affordable.

Sharpmaker is en route and should be here tomorrow. Pretty excited. I have an endura 4 that needs some sharpening.

chuck_roxas45 wrote:A torx set is indespensible to a knife nut. You'll be needing that, if not for this knife, for some other knife.

Long overdue for me I guess. I have to get a sharpmaker next before I buy any more blades.

gull wing wrote:Did you push down on the bladespine while looking at the lock lug, to see if it slides back?

With the knife opened or closed?

chuck_roxas45 wrote:Id the play is gone, don't bother rotating the stop pin.

Ok. I bought a torx set today anyways.

I used to have a mini grip and it was a great edc blade, just the right size and I loved the blade shape. But when I got the chance to edc a delica 4 it changed my mind about what I like in an edc blade. FFG is a must for me now and the delica is so thin it left my pocket more useable.

IMO, you have to have that bit. Every so often I find a model that has issues, so I grab my torx and one of the screws is loose. Tightening everything or adjusting something usually fixes everything.

To be honest, I think I'm being a little too picky. The movement was so tiny I doubt it truly ...

So instead, I went ahead and tightened the pivot screw just a hair and now the play is gone.

I haven't had a chance to rotate the stop pin yet because my bit set doesnt have the right sized torx bit.

Spyderco told me just to send the knife to them to look at. It's gonna suck not having my leaf on me.

Rotating it shouldn't work but sometimes does. :) Call Spyderco tomorrow and ask them about that - it's not unheard of and I'm not sure they consider that a warranty issue. Unlike most locks, a compression lock with a little play almost always remains completely safe and reliable.

Love the ...

chuck_roxas45 wrote:Have you tried rotating the stop pin?

Never taken a knife apart before. Will give that a try.

Didn't really check it when I first got it so I can't really say.

I've been edc'ing my Superleaf for about 8 months now. Great knife, it's been with me from coast to coast and I really feel it's the perfect mix of elegant lines and rugged sturdiness.

One thing I have noticed on mine though is slight up and down blade play. I only really notice it when I grab it ...

Definitely my Superleaf. People comment on how thick the blade stock is.



I have a zt350 that I stopped carrying because I kept getting the wrong kind of feedback from people about it. That and it's just way too heavy to edc.

Stony wrote:Yes it is a RIL, as they say "locks up like a bank vault".

My bank account is pretty pissed that you posted that picture. :D

Stony wrote:This Sage landed today.

How do you find that locking mechanism? It's a Reeves style frame lock right?

The Quark AA2 X uses a Cree Xm-L. That one?

It's a slightly larger led than the xp-g which is even larger than the xp-/xr-e. The way 4Sevens drives the led its going to be slightly brighter and also more floody. 280 lumens is just scratching the surface of a XM-L's capacity but runtime should be ...